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Post by indy on Jan 26, 2016 0:28:58 GMT -5
First rate modeling. A real job to see it coming together.
Jordan
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Post by jamesharvey on Jan 26, 2016 9:46:37 GMT -5
Glad you are back working on this. Taking the step to add the hinge is masterful. I am glad I built mine years ago because it pales in comparison to your fine work. Just great!
Jim
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Post by florida70bee on Feb 15, 2016 22:04:17 GMT -5
(Update 2/15/2016) Did some more work over the weekend.. Made it so the nose cone will be removable with the aid in some small magnets.Plus I did some additional detail work around the nose cone. It was slow going but I am satisfied with how it's turned out. I found the nose cone needed a recessed lip so that the hood will lay on it flush.. So I got out some lead sheet and made a recess. The holes are indications of where Dzus fasteners would be..  I also epoxied on the the ram air scoop to the intake and fitted the nose cone on to make sure the scoop fits in the opening correctly while the epoxy dried.  The scoop fits in the opening perfectly! 
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Post by florida70bee on Feb 15, 2016 22:06:31 GMT -5
One problem with this kit that has been bugging me ever since I started on it is the fact when the nose cone is glued on it covers up all the work I did on the front part of the chassis. I want the nose cone to be removable which wasn't a consideration when this kit was made 50 years ago. Previously, I had been mocking up the nose cone with tape but I had heard some modelers had been using micro magnets to close up opening panels. Well I had some pieces of small magnets and a Dremel tool... So... I drilled out the attachment point for the nose cone on the lower body to fit in the magnets.. Then I glued the magnets into the holes...  Likewise on the attachment point of the nose cone I drilled out a small opening in the recess and glued in a couple of strips of steel wire so the magnets have something to attach to.  |
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Post by florida70bee on Feb 15, 2016 22:09:45 GMT -5
The nose cone now attaches to the body magnetically. With the hood in place the fit is nice and flush.  And with the nose cone attached to the body, you can see how the nose cone recess gives a place where the hood can open.  Now the nose cone can be removed to expose the front part of the chassis/engine and can easily be put back on!  |
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Post by Deleted on Feb 15, 2016 22:54:07 GMT -5
Wow
tip of the hat. Freakin' nice!
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Post by racerbrown on Feb 16, 2016 7:54:08 GMT -5
great job andy!
problem solving at it's best.
thanks for sharing.
duane
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Post by sandysixtysfan on Feb 16, 2016 8:06:39 GMT -5
Great work, the magnet idea is really cool.
Sandy
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Post by indy on Feb 16, 2016 9:59:31 GMT -5
Great work, the magnet idea is really cool. Sandy Cool and really smart. This is a great WIP, thanks for keeping us updated. Great stuff that would get missed if we didn't get to see it being built. Jordan |
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Post by florida70bee on Feb 16, 2016 12:30:28 GMT -5
I'm glad you all are enjoying the progress pictures. I figure if there is something in what I show that helps another builder's project then that is a benefit!
As for the magnets I had seen them incorporated on other people builds before and thought I would give it a try with this build..
Now... I do have a question for the group though... Does anyone a have a photograph of the seat ?? I have heard that the seat was covered with a silver/black cloth material and was not plain black... Is that true? |
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Post by ttocs78z28 on Feb 16, 2016 17:31:14 GMT -5
Hey, I am building the same model right now........... but not as detailed as yours and certainly without hinges, magnets and the like, that's way too advanced for me. I found this video of the car and I think 14 minutes in they show the interior. This must be the car from the museum and so I don't know if it's the real race winner. A few of the cars in the museum I think are replicas or were backups.........not sure about Old Calhoun. Anyway, hope this helps. www.motortrend.com/news/the-greatest-driving-ol-calhoun/ |
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Post by florida70bee on Feb 16, 2016 21:16:31 GMT -5
Hey, I am building the same model right now........... but not as detailed as yours and certainly without hinges, magnets and the like, that's way too advanced for me. I found this video of the car and I think 14 minutes in they show the interior. This must be the car from the museum and so I don't know if it's the real race winner. A few of the cars in the museum I think are replicas or were backups.........not sure about Old Calhoun. Anyway, hope this helps. www.motortrend.com/news/the-greatest-driving-ol-calhoun/Thank you very much ttocs78z28! I was able to capture 2 great shots of the seat material. Additionally, I was able to capture the way the leather covering between the interior and the tail behind the seat looks (I'm going to use lead sheet to replicate that). Anyway here are the 2 shots of the seat I captured.. BTW the video was great! I just wish Firestone would replicate some new tires for Ole Calhoun so it could make a few 120+ mph blasts around the speedway. I selfishly want to hear that Offy at 7000+ rpm!   Thanks again!!! |
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Post by Deleted on Feb 16, 2016 23:14:34 GMT -5
Great work Andy.
Jim Boulukos
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Post by Art Laski on Feb 17, 2016 1:39:47 GMT -5
Looks great!
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Post by florida70bee on Feb 28, 2016 22:27:10 GMT -5
(Update: 2/28/16)Progress pictures of work I did this weekend on the roadster.. The pictures I added are of the modifications to starter tube to work with the removable front end. The upholstering of the driver seat and the adding seat belts. After I made the front end removable... I ran into another problem... The problem stems from the starting tube that was on the front of the chassis was too short and did not protrude though the opening on the nose cone (I had simulated it prior to making the front end removable). So I took off the starting tube that was on the chassis and ended up creating a longer one.  Longer starting tube mocked on chassis. 
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Post by florida70bee on Feb 28, 2016 22:30:40 GMT -5
Starting tube painted and reinstalled on chassis.  Removed the simulated tube I had on the nose cone originally and drilled out the hole. Now the longer starting tube protrudes through the opening like it should.  |
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Post by florida70bee on Feb 28, 2016 22:31:49 GMT -5
I also repainted the upper front shock mounts to the same color of the chassis and made some small mounts to mount the shock tubes on chassis.  |
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Post by florida70bee on Feb 28, 2016 22:35:03 GMT -5
Next problem to overcome was how to make the seat of the model look like seat on real car. When looking at photos/videos of Parnelli Jones's roadster the seat was upholstered in a silvery/gray vertical stripe material. Here is a picture that was previously posted of Ole Calhoun's seat to give you an idea what I am trying to make..  So after checking around... I found some 3M cloth like medical tape called Durapore. This is the style of material that I am looking for. Problem was the vertical stripes run horizontally and you can only get it in 1 inch width in regular stores which was not long enough for what I need. But I did find I could get a 2 inch width through mail order..So $6.00 later I received this 10 ft roll of tape. More that enough to do many cars...  |
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Post by florida70bee on Feb 28, 2016 22:41:05 GMT -5
To get the right color I coated a sheet of the tape with some Tamiya weathering kit Black Soot color. I then cut out some patterns for the seat out of some black paper. My original thought was to put the cut tape directly on the seat. which in the end proved to be too difficult and caused me to have to repaint the seat. So what to do...  Since I messed up at my first attempt I decided to go with a different method to upholster the seat. So I stripped the paint from the seat and took the patterns I had created before.Then I covered those patterns with the tape and mocked up the fit in the seat. When I was satisfied with the fit I would then repaint seat and then permanently attach the upholstered patterns. With that the paper patterns are covered with the colored tape making sure the pattern on the tape is vertical.  |
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Post by florida70bee on Feb 28, 2016 22:42:53 GMT -5
The paper is upholstered, test fitted to the seat and the seat itself is repainted,,  Side bolsters are attached trimmed and the seat is upholstered.  |
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Post by florida70bee on Feb 28, 2016 22:44:16 GMT -5
Now onto the seat belts. I am using lead sheet for the seat belt's themselves and Pro-Tech seat belt kit for the photo-etched seat belt hardware.  What is nice about using lead sheet it can easily conform to whatever shape you want. so here are all the belts I created prior to painting the Tamiya Semi-Gloss black.  |
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Post by florida70bee on Feb 28, 2016 22:47:51 GMT -5
Belts are painted, lap belts and hardware are attached to the seat.  Hardware is attached to the shoulder harnesses.  |
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Post by florida70bee on Feb 28, 2016 22:48:23 GMT -5
All the belts are attached to the seat.  Seat is completed!  |
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Post by florida70bee on Feb 28, 2016 22:52:34 GMT -5
Seat is mocked in the interior  The material on the upholstered seat looks similar to the real car. I'm happy with it.  Another View  |
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Post by indy on Feb 28, 2016 23:16:21 GMT -5
Nice work on getting the seat pattern to look right. Lots of good work going on here with the seat and starter tube.
Jordan
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Post by racerbrown on Feb 29, 2016 7:24:15 GMT -5
they do things right over there in rockledge.  duane |
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Post by gwstexas on Feb 29, 2016 10:25:59 GMT -5
Magnets, medical tape and lead strips? Wow!This is amazing work! Can't wait to see it finished.
Best,
Gary
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Post by florida70bee on Mar 15, 2016 20:53:44 GMT -5
UPDATE 3/15/16...Just to prove not everything goes as planned, after I completed the seat, it was driving me nuts that I realized that I had used the incorrect style of belts! (I used a cam-loc harness instead of the proper latch style harness) So thanks to my modeling buddies Jim Drew and Rick Ostman I decided to make a 2nd seat (from a spare AMT Watson kit) with upholstery like I did the 1st time and install the correct style seat belts and hardware I got from RB Productions. These belts are actually for US Navy WWII aircraft but are perfect for the 50's and early 60's Indy roadsters and other race cars of that era.  I began the process of upholstering the 2nd seat the same as the first seat I did previously. The RB Productions belts come with the photoeteched hardware and Beige belt material which I am going to use as patterns since the belts I want will be made with black paper. 
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Post by florida70bee on Mar 15, 2016 20:56:26 GMT -5
Seat was upholstered, and I started out making the lap belts.  Close up... The lap belts are complete with correct latch and leather lap guard.  |
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Post by florida70bee on Mar 15, 2016 20:58:56 GMT -5
Attached to the 2nd seat they look great along with the shoulder harnesses .  Another view of the completed seat.  |
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