|
|
Post by indycals on Mar 29, 2009 2:14:06 GMT -5
Pennzoil Hertz cars painted with Tamiya TS16 Yellow, Miller car, TS26 white and TS12 Gold.  |
|
|
|
Post by Admin on Mar 29, 2009 8:08:55 GMT -5
Very very nice Michael
|
|
|
|
Post by indycals on Apr 11, 2009 23:07:11 GMT -5
Man, the wheel covers are a real pain. No matter how well I sand them, the puttied up holes still show through the primer and paint. I think I finally have got them to where it's about as good as it's going to get, and I hope to alclad chrome the wheel covers and suspensions tomorrow. I think next time I might opt to make my own wheel covers out of sheet styrene.
|
|
|
|
Post by clm1545 on Apr 12, 2009 9:05:32 GMT -5
Hi Mike
How about using metal foil on those wheel covers?
Craig
|
|
|
|
Post by illeagle10 on Apr 12, 2009 18:20:41 GMT -5
O.K. Mike you got me? What is alclad chrome. I have done some chrome suspensions, but usually I paint them with chrome silver paint and polish the heck out of them. They don't turn out too bad. However, if there's a better way I'd like to know?
Also another question for the populous. The logos on Goodyear and Firestone tires, do they match up on either side like Goodyear to Goodyear and Eagle to Eagle, or are they Goodyear to Eagle or is it random?
Thanks, Jim
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 12, 2009 18:47:53 GMT -5
O.K. Mike you got me? What is alclad chrome. I have done some chrome suspensions, but usually I paint them with chrome silver paint and polish the heck out of them. They don't turn out too bad. However, if there's a better way I'd like to know? Also another question for the populous. The logos on Goodyear and Firestone tires, do they match up on either side like Goodyear to Goodyear and Eagle to Eagle, or are they Goodyear to Eagle or is it random? Thanks, Jim As far as I know the logos are random. G |
|
|
|
Post by indycals on Apr 12, 2009 19:04:33 GMT -5
For the record... I HATE Alclad - it's a (expletive deleted) to work with and the results are so so. I think it was much better with the original formula (they now call it Alclad II). Tamiya has released a similar chrome silver and I am anxious to try that, even though it's $15-$17 a can. But my hobby shop doesn't stock it yet.
And yes, the logos are random.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 13, 2009 0:07:51 GMT -5
Hi Michael,
I have found that using the Alclad II chrome, it is best to find the cheapest .99 can of black gloss enamel and put a lot of *invisible* mist coats at low pressure. The first five or six coats don't even appear to be on the parts unless you really candle them with a good high intensity light source. When ever I let the coats get too heavy, the chrome effect really suffers, but very light coats gives a great effect. YMMV.
I tried a whole lot of black paints, even Tamiya Gloss Black (lacquer), which seemed correct to me since the Alclad II is lacquer, but none of the good paints worked at all. Just the cheapest gloss black enamel from Wally World! LOL!!
Those three models are looking fantastic!
Mongo
|
|
|
|
Post by illeagle10 on Apr 13, 2009 16:35:44 GMT -5
Hey Mike!
Thanks for getting back to me on the Alclad question. I'll search my hobby stores to see if I can find it. I'll give it a try and see if it turns out better than what I use now.
Also, thanks to everyone on the tire answer. I feel much better. Everytime I had been to Nazareth or when Champ/Indycars ran at Pocono, I wanted to check it out, but I always got caught up in other distractions and wouldn't remember until I got home. Then of course you can never tell from a picture because it shows only one side. I can now breathe a sigh of relief. I have been putting them on randomly for years.
Thanks again, Jim
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 15, 2009 16:41:28 GMT -5
For the record... I HATE Alclad - it's a (expletive deleted) to work with and the results are so so. I think it was much better with the original formula (they now call it Alclad II). Tamiya has released a similar chrome silver and I am anxious to try that, even though it's $15-$17 a can. But my hobby shop doesn't stock it yet. I have been using Spastix Chrome in the spray can and have been having great results. I spray it ofer Tamiya black and it has shown good durability. Another trick I've found is to use Model Master Semi-gloss clear Acrylic over the kit chrome plated parts for a posished aluminum look. Great for wheels and gas caps. These wheels are done with the Semi-gloss clear brushed over chrome.   |
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 16, 2009 0:08:49 GMT -5
For the record... I HATE Alclad - Me too. G |
|
|
|
Post by indycals on Apr 17, 2009 17:31:34 GMT -5
So, last weekend I did alclad the wheel disks and suspension with typical so-so results... today I got my hands on the Tamiya TS83 metallic Silver. At $16.40 a can, it better be good. I'll be testing it out tonight to decide if I want to re-do the alclad parts.
|
|
|
|
Post by indycals on Apr 17, 2009 20:41:03 GMT -5
Meh... not worth the $16.40. Not much more metallic than TS30 Silver Leaf. I'll have uses for it, but when this can is gone, I doubt I'll buy it again. It will probably be good on the tub of my Hasegawa Ferrari 312T2 kit.
|
|
|
|
Post by indycals on Apr 18, 2009 13:14:07 GMT -5
I decided I'm going to do the Hertz car as curbside, and the Miller and Pennzoil car with engine detail. Here's some more progress shots, although these were shot about 2 weeks ago actually:    |
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 20, 2009 16:59:51 GMT -5
The Miller decals look bright and crisp! I guess I know where to go when I build mine.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 21, 2009 18:37:48 GMT -5
Keep the pics coming they look GREAT!! I have a question. What are the little pins sticking out of the suspension parts for? What do they do?
|
|
|
|
Post by indycals on Apr 21, 2009 20:05:28 GMT -5
They will hold the suspension in place when I reattach them - it's just steel wire that I got at the hobby shop. In the pics where you see the unpainted suspension attached to the tub - it is the pins holding them in place.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 21, 2009 23:50:55 GMT -5
I decided I'm going to do the Hertz car as curbside, and the Miller and Pennzoil car with engine detail. Here's some more progress shots, although these were shot about 2 weeks ago actually: Michael, These are all looking very, very good. ;D What do you use to *paint fill* those panel lines on the nose? Mongo |
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 22, 2009 9:50:19 GMT -5
So do you drill tiny holes in the end of the parts to push the wire in, or does in push in easy to the plastic?
RT
|
|
|
|
Post by indycals on Apr 22, 2009 16:26:10 GMT -5
So do you drill tiny holes in the end of the parts to push the wire in, or does in push in easy to the plastic? RT Drill... not very fun. Probably the hardest part of the whole build ;-) |
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 22, 2009 16:50:09 GMT -5
HI Michael,
Did you see the question about the panel lines?
Thanks!
Mongo
|
|
|
|
Post by Calvin on Apr 22, 2009 16:54:50 GMT -5
I've always used a fine tip black marker (sharpie) and I do it after clear coat because it can make the ink run.
|
|
|
|
Post by indycals on Apr 22, 2009 19:39:13 GMT -5
Just some Tamiya Flat black lightened up a bit with some white.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 23, 2009 8:21:29 GMT -5
o.k so you use the wires to hold suspension parts in place until?? I understand what your doing, but not why your doing it. Is it so the wheels all lay flat on the surface and then you glue the pieces in place? Sorry, but I got a ton of questions about this stuff. Thanks,
RT
|
|
|
|
Post by mrindy77 on Apr 23, 2009 12:49:05 GMT -5
I'll let Mike speak for his reason but the reason to do it on the newer CART cars is to male it easier to fill in the unsightly seam that runs down the side....you have to shave off the suspension to enabale filling and sanding the seam. It also makes it easier to paint and polish. Then you can just reattach the suspension components.
|
|
|
|
Post by indycals on Apr 23, 2009 19:30:26 GMT -5
I'll let Mike speak for his reason but the reason to do it on the newer CART cars is to male it easier to fill in the unsightly seam that runs down the side....you have to shave off the suspension to enabale filling and sanding the seam. It also makes it easier to paint and polish. Then you can just reattach the suspension components. Exactly... and the pins make it easier to reattach and make sure they are aligned correctly (assuming you drill the holes in the tub in proper alignment) |
|
|
|
Post by indy on Apr 23, 2009 22:15:55 GMT -5
How much flexibility do you get with that setup when setting ride height?
Jordan
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 24, 2009 22:51:46 GMT -5
Just some Tamiya Flat black lightened up a bit with some white. Thanks, Michael. Mongo |
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 24, 2009 22:56:31 GMT -5
I've always used a fine tip black marker (sharpie) and I do it after clear coat because it can make the ink run. I bought some archival pens at Michaels in the .05 size. The ink doesn't give me the problems of running like Sharpie ink. I do give it a good bit of time before I clear coat over it. I find them really good to get a sharp line on the edges of windshields/windows, then I can come back and fill it the larger areas with a brush and paint. I am always on the look out for new (to me) techniques. So far, I have only rescribed the lines and not filled them with anything. I will try paint filling the panel lines on one. Mongo |
|
|
|
Post by stonecold44 on May 13, 2009 22:31:45 GMT -5
Michael, how's the progress on this project?
|
|
