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Post by gavkiwi on Oct 26, 2012 8:47:39 GMT -5
Mr Peters; I sent you a PM regarding using polycarbonate tamiya paints on a plastic model. In a nutshell it's not recommended but it can be done. The paint appears flat on the car until tamiya clear has been applied. Which improves the paint job...Hope this helps some.
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Post by mrpeters on Oct 26, 2012 11:09:48 GMT -5
It's a diecast
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Post by gavkiwi on Oct 26, 2012 11:27:44 GMT -5
Doh, my bad.
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Post by mrpeters on Oct 27, 2012 0:08:39 GMT -5
Thank you so much, boca!  |
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Post by mrpeters on Oct 27, 2012 0:19:53 GMT -5
Still desperately need a nose shot. If you have ANYTHING it would be appreciated.
Also will add the Lincoln Electric, STP decals to the sheet.
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Post by SteveK51 on Oct 27, 2012 17:57:40 GMT -5
Looks like it says:
SYNTHETIC
MOTOR
OIL
below the Royal Purple. Then Oldsmobile, 7, Goodyear, then maybe National? and something I can't identify.
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Post by mrpeters on Oct 27, 2012 20:55:43 GMT -5
Something like this?  |
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Post by mrpeters on Oct 28, 2012 16:49:37 GMT -5
Shot some yellow today. Went for ACE Hardware brand Florescent Yellow. Looks great, IMO! Way better in the sun than inside, too.  |
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Post by mrpeters on Oct 28, 2012 17:11:25 GMT -5
Mask...  Shot some purple...lighting is awful! It has too much flake, but I'm not starting over again. It will just be "my take" on how the car might have looked.  |
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Post by mrpeters on Oct 28, 2012 17:51:05 GMT -5
I think I did it!! Do I clear coat this thing before or after decals (or both?)  |
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Post by clm1545 on Oct 28, 2012 19:25:50 GMT -5
Looks good. What are you going to use for the clear? When in doubt about the paint, I use Future. You can clear either before of after the decals that way. If you clear before the decals, do it again after. Beware, not all clear is compatible with the paint or the decals. That's why I said you pretty much can't go wrong with Future. It takes time to dry, so keep it away from any dust.
Take Care
Craig
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Post by bocadiecast on Oct 29, 2012 7:49:06 GMT -5
Wow, the decals look amazing!!!
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Post by mrpeters on Oct 29, 2012 9:04:15 GMT -5
I used Tamyia clear, but found out it was pearl! I will have to get a different clear. I'm even thinking I might have to start over. I put a big fingerprint in the nose  |
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Post by mrpeters on Oct 29, 2012 19:08:04 GMT -5
Decided the color is totally wrong (purple) so I've stripped and started over. Primer drying now. I have issues...im too much of a perfectionist.
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Post by GrandPrecision on Oct 30, 2012 9:05:24 GMT -5
Nothing wrong with that... I probably stripped about 10 cars before actually getting a finish I was happy with.
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Post by mrpeters on Oct 30, 2012 9:45:04 GMT -5
I think I did a really nice job on masking, which is positive!
the replacement wing/undertray i've got coming is all black, so I think i can peel the decals and then primer it right off with plastic primer.
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Post by mrpeters on Oct 30, 2012 18:27:56 GMT -5
Painted rims! Amazed my hand stayed so steady. Medicine I'm taking for something else has that effect. I guess surgeons use it to keep steady.  Also got an Arie donor, which had a black body. A touch of NPR on the sponsors and all done! Plastic primer/clear on that to make it sticky and now regular primer. small cracks, but nothing like before. I'll make this one work!  |
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Post by mrpeters on Oct 31, 2012 11:16:02 GMT -5
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Post by mrpeters on Oct 31, 2012 14:22:26 GMT -5
How do I deal with cracking on the plastic? I used plastic primer to make it "sticky" like it said, and then shot primer. Will this just get covered up with purple?  Speaking of Purple... Plymouth Plum Crazy Model Master  |
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Post by bocadiecast on Oct 31, 2012 16:16:01 GMT -5
From my experience, I strongly recommend stripping down the plastic and starting fresh. On the other hand, I think the purple is dead on.
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Post by mrpeters on Oct 31, 2012 16:17:12 GMT -5
Another purple...and yellow...  |
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Post by INDY22IAM on Oct 31, 2012 18:39:13 GMT -5
The purple does look sharp. About the cracking of the primer. That happens some times. If you are not using an airbrush it is hard to control the flow of paint. I sometimes use a spray can and hold the model very far away and do a real light mist first and get it to cover that way. Most of all be patient.
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Post by mrpeters on Oct 31, 2012 18:42:23 GMT -5
The purple does look sharp. About the cracking of the primer. That happens some times. If you are not using an airbrush it is hard to control the flow of paint. I sometimes use a spray can and hold the model very far away and do a real light mist first and get it to cover that way. Most of all be patient. Patient...I am not  I gotta learn that and maybe I should learn to use an airbrush then go buy one. Will see how this turns out. |
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Post by mrpeters on Nov 1, 2012 4:42:58 GMT -5
It's getting there!!!  |
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Post by sandysixtysfan on Nov 1, 2012 7:01:41 GMT -5
Lookin' real good!
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Post by senn65 on Nov 1, 2012 7:52:53 GMT -5
It's getting there!!! Mike really it looks pretty damn good. I see a little paint creep from the masking.....Tamiya my friend, get some. And yes patience is the key. |
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Post by indy on Nov 1, 2012 8:00:47 GMT -5
Way to stick with it, keep it up!
Jordan
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Post by mrpeters on Nov 1, 2012 8:05:13 GMT -5
Ralph...totally. I'm going to use a brush to touch up those kinds of spots.
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Post by mrpeters on Nov 1, 2012 9:00:54 GMT -5
can I sand down the endfences? You guys can see the bubbling. Thinking i could sand down and shoot a light coat to smooth them out?
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Post by mrpeters on Nov 1, 2012 9:01:44 GMT -5
Also -- I'm using Testors "wet" clear. Should I clear this, then decal, then clear again or just wait and clear after decals?
Will alps decals be damaged by the clear?
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I gotta learn that and maybe I should learn to use an airbrush then go buy one. Will see how this turns out.
