Post by harveythedog2 on Sept 21, 2012 8:47:47 GMT -5
Here is a Pic of the Crest car & Western Union car. Crest car has the right body but air box is wrong. Remove the Western Union air box, cut off the Crest and add the new air box. Some other body mods and cockpit work as well as wing changes, etc... are necessary but this will give you a very close replica. Stu
So, if one of you experts were going to paint this, how would you do it?
Primer > Yellow > Mask off yellow, shoot purple?
I have never successfully gotten a good paint job on any that I've tried. Always seems like I use too much paint or something and end up with rough "ridges" between the paint lines. I also end up with tons of bleed, no matter how hard I press on the masking tape!!
Far as painting goes, they always say paint the lightest color first. I would paint the yellow or orange depending on the car you are doing. Mask off and paint the purple. Get a good and clean masking tape and press down on the lines before painting. When painting do very light coats. It sounds to me you are using to much paint if your lines are not clean. You also need to be using an airbrush it is a lot easier to control the paint this way. Does not have to be an expensive one either. I use one that was $50 and clearcoat with one that was $25. They work good enough for me. Also paint sideways from the tape do not spray down at the masked off area. Keep the airbrush a good 6 inches away from the model. Let the paint dry before taking off the tape. Sometimes I score the masking tape with a sharp xacto knife before removing the tape to get a really fine line, but there is no room for mistakes when you do that.
Started stripping the body today, and put primer on the plastic bits. Pics later once there is more to see.
This body comes apart so easy! The mirrors pop right out, windshield is a piece of cake and if you pry the glue off the cockpit/buckeye that whole piece comes out as one!
Metal all stripped down. Really having a nightmare with the underbody and wings. The plastic is not holding primer at all. I didn't have a problem with the DW12 plastic. It just seems to all drip to one pool and crack.
Is there a way to strip the plastic parts and start over?
Did you Sand the plastic prior to applying the primer? Btw what kind of primer did you use? I've used cheap light grey primer before and it ruined a model race car I was working on. I've been using tamiya white primer ever since and that stuff is worth it's weight in gold!
I didn't sand it. I was afraid to damage it! I've got it soaking in mineral spirits now and hoping some of it lifts off, I'll then sand that maybe? What kind of paper? I've never done this...way better at painting on the computer
I was using Tamyia white, actually, because I had some. I am going to try some primer made for plastic next from Lowes.
Post by bocadiecast on Oct 25, 2012 18:08:14 GMT -5
I personally soak my plastic pieces in 91% alcohol. Let it sit over night and then softly scrub with a toothbrush. Never had an issue with it melting plastic. Did you get the decals printed yet?
I could be mistaken, but i have heard that letting a plastic model body sit in brake fluid over night can remove / strip the paint without damaging the plastic.
I have a 600 grit sandpaper that I used to prep my latest build, it just gives the paint something to adhere to, to get the plastic nice and 'tacky' for the paint application.
That link I posted has been a life saver for me
P.S: Love your paint choices. that livery is going to be really striking, good luck
Last Edit: Oct 25, 2012 19:14:55 GMT -5 by gavkiwi
Oh you are so right, I didn't even notice myself, I looked at your colors and thought wow those colors are awesome, and the thought to myself I wonder how he found those colors for plastic model kits. And sure enough they have PS-xx instead of TS-xx. Sorry you are having so many problems, stick with it, it will turn out fine.
Post by bocadiecast on Oct 26, 2012 8:20:36 GMT -5
Do you have access to an airbrush? In my opinion Humbol has pretty decent florescent colors. If not, maybe use use Tamiya yellow as a base coat then spray a florescent yellow (Model Master, Testors, Tamiya, Rustoleum). I also suggest experimenting on another car you are planning to convert in the future to see which method works best. And BTW- it is 91% rubbing alcohol that I use. I get a bottle from Walmart for less than $2 so its cheap and effective.