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Post by kip on Dec 10, 2014 13:33:29 GMT -5
Starting with an Etzel 1959/1960 Watson. On the upper body, the three scoops around the cockpit need to be removed. On the belly pan, the bump shape is not right. It needs to be elongated and moved further around toward the bottom.
The inset for the fuel filler caps needs to be moved 3/16 of an inch toward the rear of the car.
I have removed the scoops, moved the fuel inset, remolded the belly pan bump, and done some work on the cockpit. I should have some photos up in a day or two.
GWS is going to do the decals for me and I am still looking for the perfect color match. I've tried about six deep reds and maroons so far but have not found the right one yet.
Any suggestions? I hate to start another color controversy. Actually that is not true--I rather enjoy them and they are quite helpful. Calvin, the floor is yours.
kip |
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Post by Calvin on Dec 10, 2014 14:37:30 GMT -5
Calvin, the floor is yours. I think Craig, Walt, and Michael P. should join me in a roundtable discussion...... and it could be streamed Live on the MP2/Indycals website. |
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Post by Calvin on Dec 10, 2014 15:03:28 GMT -5
At first I was thinking this car had a metallic look but then I realized its all the horrible picture noise making it look that way so after you get rid of all the noise it shows its just normal burnt red.  My first suggestion would be Tamiya TS-33 Dull Red with clear over it. |
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Post by kip on Dec 10, 2014 15:54:04 GMT -5
I agree, its not metallic. Unfortunately, the closest match so far was a metallic paint. I tried the TS-33 dull red over grey primer and it was way too dark. I am going to see what it looks like over white primer. I also found some Krylon Banner Red and will do a sample with that. I hope that works because I used Krylon on my Racing Associates cars and really liked it. It went on really well.
kip
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Post by clm1545 on Dec 10, 2014 18:36:56 GMT -5
Kip
I think the Banner Red will be too red. Look up my Filter Queen Spl, it is Banner Red. Maybe TS 11 over white primer.
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Post by kip on Dec 10, 2014 19:25:02 GMT -5
Yep, much too red. I'll take a look at the TS-11. Looks like it may be a little too purple but I'll give it a try. Thanks for the input.
kip
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Post by clm1545 on Dec 10, 2014 21:55:26 GMT -5
Looks very much like 2 Ford truck colors called, called Chestnut Brown and Dark Toreador, Kip. Problem is, they are both metallic, and auto metallic looks too out of scale on models IMO. Plus both you and Calvin don't think the car is metallic. I'm interested in how you redo the nose, please show us.
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Post by oldphotos on Dec 10, 2014 22:18:13 GMT -5
If you can get one of Lance's 1958 Watson Conversions with the belly pan and nose all the work is done as this car was 1958 Watson the Dick Rathmann put on the pole for the 1958 race.
Oldphotos
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Post by Deleted on Dec 10, 2014 22:39:03 GMT -5
Model Masters "Burnet Iron" is color need...../
Russ
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Post by sandysixtysfan on Dec 11, 2014 14:31:44 GMT -5
"GWS is going to do the decals for me ..."
I hope you're going to have some extra decals to sell!
Sandy
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Post by kip on Dec 11, 2014 17:05:02 GMT -5
If anyone wants decals for this car, let me know, send your mailing address, and I will order extra. I have asked Gary to do the numbers, the chief on the oil tank, the Jim Robbins logo, and the Driver/ Mech. lettering. I haven't received the proofs yet so I don't know when they will be ready.
Also, I have ordered more of the Tombstone Life Spl. decals from Gary. (In anticipation of Calvin's 1964 Novi **HINT HINT Calvin**). So if anybody wants sheets of these decals, let me know. The decals include only the Tombstone Llfe hood decal.
The 58 nose is right for this car, but from the photos it appears that the Sellers 58 belly pan bulge is the right shape but too high on the side for this particular car--so I have modified the belly pan to move the bulge to more around the bottom. I may be off base on this, but from the photo, it looks right. I will post photos tomorrow. kip |
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Post by lance on Dec 11, 2014 20:54:59 GMT -5
This is one beautifull car, looking forward to your build.
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Post by Calvin on Dec 11, 2014 23:19:54 GMT -5
(In anticipation of Calvin's 1964 Novi I'm still working on it.... |
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Post by kip on Dec 12, 2014 8:10:04 GMT -5
Yay. Good news for NOVI or Herk fans. I want to do the 1965 version Herk drove and the 1964 McElreath #28 car.
kip
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Post by kip on Dec 12, 2014 10:35:43 GMT -5
The new belly pan bulge has been molded in resin, installed a little lower on the pan, and primed.
The three scoops around the cockpit have been removed. Filled the oil tank mounting holes (they were in the front and the Robbins tank is closer the rear wheel.) I filled the front portion of the gas cap indent with Apoxy and drilled out an indent further back on the tail. I put a thin layer of Apoxy over the new indent and squished the gas caps into the Apoxy, making it ooze out around the sides. Removed the caps and 24 hours later sanded the excess off. I like the Apoxy. It dries rock hard. It sands very slowly, but it leaves a semi-gloss smooth non-porous surface.
kip
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Post by alterrenner on Dec 13, 2014 6:05:04 GMT -5
At first read, I thought you might be misspelling "Epoxy, but then realized you are speaking of a brand name. Tell me more about "Apoxy". Where do you find it?
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Post by kip on Dec 13, 2014 9:19:29 GMT -5
I got my Apoxy off Ebay. I could be wrong but I think I first read about it in one of Calvin's posts. Its a two part epoxy putty. Seems a bit like Milleput (spelling?) but I like it better. Not too messy to knead. You can smooth it with a wet finger or for the more posh types you can use a wet tool. Dries in 24 hours. When cured it is very hard, non porous, and smooth. Sanding is a lot slower than a tube putty, but you get a smooth finish that is comparable to the surrounding resin. Sticks well also. Primer adheres well to it.
I will post an update on the Robbins #91 later today. I'm putting the belly pan on the body. Today's post may be my last update on this build for a bit. I want to paint and decal next (I've subscribed to Calvin's "paint early" build order philosophy) but the decals haven't come yet and I don't want to work with the suspension any more until the body is painted and decaled. For those of you that have ordered the decals I will let you know when the proofs come and I place the order. It shouldn't be long after that. On the Tombstone decals, they came really quick after I approved the proofs. Maybe I'll build the Revell Midget in the meantime. I haven't done one of those yet. I saw one that Art Laski built box stock (in an old model magazine). Inspiring build.
kip
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Post by Calvin on Dec 13, 2014 12:36:30 GMT -5
I got my Apoxy off Ebay. I could be wrong but I think I first read about it in one of Calvin's posts. Its a two part epoxy putty. Apoxy Sculpt Yeah! My first subscriber!  Everyone else thinks its a weird way to build.....but all I can say is my weird building style is a lot more safe. |
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Post by alterrenner on Dec 14, 2014 8:34:51 GMT -5
The two-part and kneaded putty sounds familiar. I just didn't put the product and the name together. Thank you, I really need to start writing thing down! It must be good stuff because that fuel filler surgery looks great. I'm still using Squadron, because it's available locally. Works good, but you can only put it on in thin layers due to shrinkage. Putting it on thick enough to get that "Squish" would mean a very long cure time.
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Post by kip on Jan 4, 2015 15:13:02 GMT -5
Finally a bit of progress. Its been cold and rainy—not good painting weather. Axels are in. Primed the body. Painted the gold on the nose. Installed the starter tube and screen in the nose and glued the nose on the body.    Oil tank is done. Nothing special, just stock-- but I liked the "Chief" logo so I thought I’d post a photo of it. Decals are by GWS Decals. I think he did a great job. This is the real thing.  And this is the model with Gary’s decal.  I’m debating whether to weather the oil tank like it was for the qualifying photo. Looks like dirt spattered on the underside. Any thoughts, pros or cons of weathering??? Next I'll mask off the gold on the nose & hope for some painting weather.
I love the lines of the Watson roadsters. They were a work of art.kip |
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Post by Calvin on Jan 4, 2015 15:40:25 GMT -5
I’m debating whether to weather the oil tank like it was for the qualifying photo. Looks like dirt spattered on the underside. Any thoughts, pros or cons of weathering??? Everything looks great! We have been wondering and talking about this build. I dont think a little splattering under the oil tank will hurt anything. I'm not much of weathering man as I've never really done it. |
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Post by alterrenner on Jan 5, 2015 6:12:25 GMT -5
Weathering looks good in dioramas, but in a show case or shelf with other non-weathered models, it looks out of place. My opinion, only.
--Frank
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Post by kip on Jan 5, 2015 12:56:29 GMT -5
This morning I looked at the qualifying photo and realized that the trim around the grill did not have the "ears" on the sides of the opening. Only on the top and (in the 1961 qualifying photo) the bottom. So off they came.  Was planning on painting the body today but I guess I will spend it repairing the nose. kip |
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Post by kip on Feb 11, 2015 19:34:21 GMT -5
I finally got some decent painting weather. Here is the real thing. And here is what I have so far. The nose was a bugger to paint. Looks a little greenish in the photo--but its not--must have been the lighting. I'm pretty happy with it.  On the tail, you may notice some of that static dust discussed in sandysixtysfan's thread. Its not in the paint but every time I moved it for the photos, dust went to the model like a magnet was attracting it.   Decals tomorrow. kip |
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Post by clm1545 on Feb 11, 2015 19:39:54 GMT -5
Very nice.
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Post by Calvin on Feb 11, 2015 19:48:01 GMT -5
I'm happy to see this painted up.....we have been wondering about it. Metallic paint can show up differently in almost every light......and plus all sorts of factors can impact how metallic paint goes on and flows out.
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Post by kip on Feb 23, 2015 16:09:34 GMT -5
Decals are on. (All but one of them anyway.) Some of you with sharp, youthful eyes may notice that a “9” is missing from the tail. The compound curves of the tail are my sworn enemy when it comes to decaling. I managed to butcher the 9’s on a couple of sheets and had to order more. When they arrive, I will correct this. You may also notice that the nose color has changed. It looked much golder than the photo of the real car so I repainted it with a gold/copper mixture.   I really like the Jim Robbins decal with the little birds. I think GWS Decals did a nice job on these.  kip |
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Post by indy on Feb 23, 2015 16:27:25 GMT -5
Beautiful work, Kip! Love the colors.
Jordan
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Post by Deleted on Feb 23, 2015 16:46:34 GMT -5
Good looking subject. You are doing it justice! I forgot it was "91", that is such an odd ball number. In the history of Indy this number has been used on darn few cars, much less one's that made the starting field.
I actually thought it was "16" ;-)
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Post by Calvin on Feb 24, 2015 20:27:12 GMT -5
OMG!
I freaking Like it! The color is spectacular beyond belief.
Especially the two tweety birds!
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Everyone else thinks its a weird way to build.....but all I can say is my weird building style is a lot more safe.
