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Post by thesnowhawk on Oct 7, 2011 11:47:11 GMT -5
Hello Everyone,
Need a little help please.
I have Decals from Indycals, Speedline, Ricambi, the stock kits and parts unknow.
I use MCW, Model Masters and Tamiya paints.
Back in the day when I would build it was paint decal and done. Now it's primer, sand, paint and god knows what else. I am just trying to get my models to look close to what you guys have built.
My question for you is do I clear coat before or after the decals? Do I use the Micros scale set/sol and which clear should I use and how to apply? I have also heard about Future and I think it is called 2K.
Thank you so much for any help on this. Don
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Post by pje on Oct 7, 2011 12:31:39 GMT -5
There is no cut and dry answer to your question. Each of us seems to prefer a little something different. I learned a lot of my painting techniques from military modelers who all have the same problem. They use flat paints. Therefore before decaling they have to put on a gloss coat of some type. To lay a decal down and not have ‘silvering” under the decal carrier, you have to have as smooth and glossy surface as possible. After your decals are down, then there are two schools of though amongst car modelers. Seal the decals with another coat of clear or leave them alone. Some of that is out of fear of screwing up the paint job and some feel that if you gloss coat the decals you now have a look that is not prototypical. Here is another discussion that we had earlier in the week: mb2501.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=gt&action=display&thread=3364One of my favorite modelers is Alex Kustov. Just last week Stu reminded me of his methods of painting: italianhorses.net/Tutorials/Primer/primer.htmitalianhorses.net/Tutorials/PerfectPaint/paint.htmAs I said in the other discussion, practice and see what works best for you. Take an old body and try out a few paints and methods and see what works for you. Also remember that each brand of paint and decal can present their own challenges when used together. For instance Michael of Indycals recommends Tamiya paint with his decals, but conversely, never use Model Master Enamels when using his decals. Good luck! Paul Erlendson
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Post by stonecold44 on Oct 7, 2011 21:25:33 GMT -5
The only times I have clear coated before putting the decals on was when the paint was heavy on the metallic. Case in point; the 1988 Sullivan Miller Penske. When I built it, I used Testors Gold and the decals got a little rough after I clear coated. Then next time I built the same car (using the #1 markings from AMT) I clear coated first then decaled, then put on a second coat of clear. That one came out a lot better than the first effort. I can't speak for how the Tamiya metallic paints are since I havent built a car that required those paints. Maybe it is easier. Our other guys like Michael and Calvin can answer that better than I can.
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Post by indycals on Oct 7, 2011 21:47:06 GMT -5
I don't clear coat at all.
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Post by Calvin on Oct 11, 2011 1:35:07 GMT -5
When ever I can I always clear coat over my decals, with that said Whenever I do a Metallic paint job I always clear coat the car before applying decals. Because Metallic paint likes to move around in a strange way and make things funny around the decals. ( I really dont know how to explain it correctly?)
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Post by mrindy77 on Oct 11, 2011 8:36:28 GMT -5
Depends on the period of car....roadsters were typically had hand painted graphics and numbers which were done by sign painters, pinstrippers...these graphics are typically "shiny" as they are done with paint. I clear coat over those decals. (not sponsor stickers). Modern day Indy cars are done with vinyl graphics and do not have the same sheen as paint. I do not clear over those.
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