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Post by mjjracer on Oct 5, 2011 13:06:21 GMT -5
I know Calvin can answer this.  When using Tamiya rattle can paints, how long should I wait to apply Tamiya clear? I understand the paint and clear gas out at different rates, so I have heard to either clear within an hour of the last paint coat (can't do that if over decals, of course) or wait at least a month. Does using a food dehydrator help? Also, when painting different colors, how long does one wait to mask? Basic questions, I know, but I am trying to start up again after a loooong absence from building. Thanks much! Mark |
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Post by pje on Oct 5, 2011 15:30:21 GMT -5
Mark, Tamiya rattle can paints are the most forgiving around. You can clear coat within a few minutes. As far as when it's completely dry, I use my nose. When you can't smell the paint, it's dry. A food dehydrator isn't really necessary with Tamiya rattle cans.
Masking of course requires the paint to be completely dry, and that somewhat depends on the time of the year, but once again use your nose.
Painting is one of the hardest parts of the hobby and one of the most rewarding. Since it's been awhile for you I suggest some practice to get the feel of the Tamiya paint. Take a model that you don't care about and play with it. See how the paint works for you.
Good luck!
Paul Erlendson
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Post by Calvin on Oct 5, 2011 15:39:00 GMT -5
I know Calvin can answer this. Yep, I sure can ;D Before I go off an type a bunch of stuff I'll just add this link, on how to paint with Tamiya synthetic lacquers page. (My Bible) www.tamiyausa.com/articles/feature.php?article-id=35One hour. Without decals at least 24 hours if you are over-coating decals, but be careful! Be light and gentle when clearing over decals. Every-time I get a chance I clear coat over my Indycals and NEVER once I've run into any problems. If you are replicating a car that has the numbers or letters painted on in real life, for example cars prior to the 60's Its takes more than 6 light coats of Tamiya clear to get rid of the decal edge. Look at my 1959 Winner, those decals are thicker than Indycals and did 8 light coats of clear over a 2 day period and along with using 3,600 grit micro mesh I was able to get rid of the decal edge.  On a side story when I show this car to people, they always ask me how in the world I painted the numbers and lettering on! You honestly cant tell they are decals! This is by far my best paint job, thus far.......  IMO Clear is the same as any other color can, I dont see any difference in character at all when it comes to drying time or the way to spray it. Prolly the only thing that you have to be careful with when using clear is not to go to heavy over-coating Tamiya flo red. Just be light with clear and it will take care of you. I'd only spend the money on one if I was a Testors enamel fan. I'd save your money and just let the Tamiya paint job dry normally for a few hours. Using Tamiya masking tape, I've done 24 hours without having a problem. No problem, once you get the hang of using Tamiya sprays your worries about future paint jobs will be gone. For example, when I start a new build, I have ZERO worries about my paint job because I know it will come out A OK. |
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Post by Calvin on Oct 5, 2011 15:41:34 GMT -5
Take a model that you don't care about and play with it. See how the paint works for you. Good point Paul. I did the same when I first started in open wheel building, I built some inexpensive AMT late 80's indycars. |
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Post by mjjracer on Oct 6, 2011 12:39:53 GMT -5
Outstanding! Just what I needed.
Thanks Paul & Calvin.
MJ
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