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Post by dusfincher on Feb 20, 2011 22:28:46 GMT -5
How do you finish your tires? My last car I just sanded the whole tire and painted the Goodyear on. It looks ok, but but kind of unfinished.
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Post by illeagle10 on Feb 21, 2011 14:38:32 GMT -5
There are a couple of ways to apply logos on tires. There are also a number of things to consider when applying them. One of the things to cosider is the medium they're being applied to, rubber or paint. In either case both surfaces should be smooth. I'll address this in a minute. Another consideration is the type of decals you are using. There are two types of decals that you can use. The first is the water-slide type of decal and the second is the rub-on type of decal. Either can produce great results!
Much can be done in preparation to help with the placement of the decals. As for the tires if there is raised logos, you'll want to remove them, if possible. Much of this depends on the type of rubber that is used to mold the tires. That is why most modelers like resin tires, because they can easily remove any raised logo and paint them to the shade they want. Then it is just like applying a decal to a model. When the logo is removed from the surface, the surface must be as smooth as possible. With the rubber type of tires, I will usually go through a polishing system to make the tires smooth. Once that is completed a clear gloss is sprayed on the sidewalls to seal the rubber or painted resin tires as the base for the water-slide decals. When cutting out decals, you should as cut as close to the decal as possible. Once applying the decal, you'll want to use a decal prep such a Mircro-set and then a decal softener, such a Micro-sol or Solvaset. This will help the decal "suck" down on to the surface. Then a coat of semi-gloss or matte clear can be sprayed over the surfaces where the clear gloss was applied. Let me stop here and address the rub-on type of decals.
As for the model here, I used the Shabo rub-on decals. Due to the fact that I would be handling the tires a little more than I would have liked. The wheels I used were one piece and had to be pushed through the tires instead of the older two piece wheels, which push on from either side of the tire. I didn't want to take the chance of decaling the tires and then have the logo come off by trying to pry the wheels into the tire. I also didn't want to apply the water-slide type after the wheels were installed, because I didn't want to apply a matte finish to the chromed wheels. My solution, rub-on decals. These type of decals need to be cut out with care. I usually cut these close to the decal, but leave a small area on the decal so I can hold it in place without actually touching the decal. Once in place the decal is then applied by rubbing on top of it thoroughly. The draw back is, this is a "once and done" deal! If you "flub it up" there's usually no second chances with that particular decal. Chances are if you haven't done it before you should have a few extra handy for mistakes. As a side note Shabo rub-on yellow Indy decals seem hard to come by these days.
These are just a couple of my solutions. I'm sure you may hear a couple of other solutions from the forum. All are good answers, because there are some excellent modelers here, you just have to find out what you're comfortable with and give it a try!
Hope this helps you out,
Jim
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Post by harveythedog2 on Feb 21, 2011 15:35:03 GMT -5
Looking SWEET, Jim!
Nice sign too! Can't wait to see this one done.
Stu
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Post by illeagle10 on Feb 21, 2011 20:26:31 GMT -5
 Well after much agony and suffering, I think I’m pretty close to where I was! Jim |
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Post by Calvin on Feb 22, 2011 2:09:02 GMT -5
Let me try this again.  Since we are back on track. Darn it Jim! You make everything look sooooo easy! No really you do. I can sense your confidence when you build.Thats a little to strange, what I just said.  LOL |
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Post by illeagle10 on Feb 24, 2011 18:00:50 GMT -5
I’ve been a little under the weather the past couple of days. Think I had a touch of the flu. So today I finally got myself up around the house. I fiddle with the car a little bit and felt it was time for some test fitting….  So far so good…..  Once I get myself back on my feet, time to start adding some color. Jim |
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Post by 2lapsdown on Feb 24, 2011 19:33:01 GMT -5
Looks good already, nice job on the helmet too.
John
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Post by Calvin on Feb 24, 2011 22:51:10 GMT -5
Awesome! I like how clean it looks.
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Post by illeagle10 on Feb 25, 2011 18:04:55 GMT -5
I have been trying to work on some of the other parts to the car. I have the front inside wheel covers finished along with the rear hubs.  I also finished the seat and seat belts. For this I used a Crazy Modeler hardware and decals set. Hopefully it came out pretty close to the earlier picture of the real car.  More on the way! Jim |
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Post by Calvin on Feb 25, 2011 22:20:04 GMT -5
I love C/F!
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Post by illeagle10 on Feb 28, 2011 20:15:22 GMT -5
The kits I was using did not leave me much choice when it came to gear shift, gear shift linkage and sway bar levers. The two kits I could pick from are the AMT on top, showing the gearshift and the Revell kit on the bottom that has everything molded to the seat.  Since the pickins’ were slim from the kits I started putting some effort into a better detailed gearshift linkage and gearshift. As you can see I used plastic rod inside another plastic rod then drilled a hole for the gearshift lever.  I had to make a gear shift lever and the two sway bar levers for the other side of the seat. So,I thought I’d pass on a little trick I learned a few years back from some other modelers on how to make knobs for the throttles on aircraft and I find it works quite well for making gearshift knobs, sway bar levers and antennas for cars. You want to start with a good round blob of white glue, such as Elmer’s. Then taking the size rod that you need for whatever you are making.  Dip the tip of the rod into the white glue, will cause a small ball of white glue to form on the tip of the rod. The rod can be plastic or brass. The faster and shallower you dip the rod the rounder the ball on the tip will be. Deeper and slower you dip the knob it will become more oblong.  Once the glob of glue dries it will form the knob that you desire and a little painting should do the trick!  Time to go and add some color to the car. Jim |
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Post by illeagle10 on Feb 28, 2011 21:30:30 GMT -5
Well I got the M@r1b0r0 stripes going on the car and here she is!  |
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Post by Calvin on Mar 1, 2011 1:41:51 GMT -5
What a neat trick with the shifter!!!!!
and I love the Clean M@r1b0r0 Stripes too!!! I dont see any bleed troughs!!!
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Post by harveythedog2 on Mar 1, 2011 7:09:25 GMT -5
It's looking SWEET!!! Nice job Jim!
Stu
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Post by Art Laski on Mar 1, 2011 13:59:01 GMT -5
Nice work, Jim! Thanks for sharing.
-Art
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Post by mbpp on Mar 1, 2011 14:31:16 GMT -5
Looking great Jim
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Post by illeagle10 on Mar 2, 2011 12:39:17 GMT -5
Here is the shift lever and linkage installed. Now to work on the other side of the cockpit, I need to add the sway bar levers.  Since these types of kits are basically curbside kits, I’ve been putting in some effort on rear transmission area, by adding different shades of metal paint and then a wash to those metal parts sure seems to do the trick!  Jim |
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Post by Calvin on Mar 3, 2011 0:20:42 GMT -5
Jim you are too good.
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Post by stonecold44 on Mar 3, 2011 0:39:25 GMT -5
Another beauty here. The skill of you guys never ceases to amaze me.
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Post by illeagle10 on Mar 7, 2011 18:22:58 GMT -5
While I’ve been decaling the interior with carbon fiber, there have been other small things to get done. I had been working on the rear wing support when I notice that the side plates of the rear wing were incorrect. I had to make new ones. This picture was taken of one of the show cars shortly after the 500. As you can see the top of the wing side plate is flat with no curvature to it. This is what I fashioned my first set of side plates after.  However, upon seeing the actual race car, you can see that the side plate has a curvature on the top.  The painted plates are the old ones and the white ones are the new ones.  I made the cushions for either side of the cockpit.  I’m also in the midst of making the sway bar levers and gates to fit in the left side of the cockpit.  Well back to work, Jim |
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Post by kurzheck on Mar 7, 2011 20:57:22 GMT -5
Looking good. Your work is very tidy. Nice attention to detail.
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Post by Calvin on Mar 8, 2011 0:20:15 GMT -5
Awesome!
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Post by harveythedog2 on Mar 8, 2011 8:28:43 GMT -5
Looking great Jim!
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Post by shunter on Mar 12, 2011 16:09:31 GMT -5
Loving it, nice touch with the sway bar adjuster.
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Post by illeagle10 on Mar 12, 2011 18:03:56 GMT -5
Hi everyone. Another set back for me, well somewhat. No not with the car, thank goodness! The laptop I was using crashed and is in the shop. The laptop I have now is about eight years old and is sloooowwwww!  I don't have an app on it for downloading pictures either. So, as soon as it gets back I'll get you up to date. I've been taking pictures. For how slow this thing is, I'll be the last bidding on the Wildcat tomorrow, so I'll probably be in the second round batch.  When it rains it pours!! Jim |
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Post by 2lapsdown on Mar 12, 2011 21:10:06 GMT -5
Jim
PM sent
John
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Post by Calvin on Mar 13, 2011 2:38:07 GMT -5
No worries Jim, we'll get you hooked up.
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Post by illeagle10 on Mar 14, 2011 20:36:39 GMT -5
Yahoooooo! I finally got my computer back tonight. I feel like the guy on the Direct TV commercial! So without further ado, here’s some pictures of what I’ve been doing. I got the sway bar levers in. I think they turned out quite nice.  As I said before since this is a curbside kit, I added more detail to the rear suspension. I added the rear hubs I had made to the rear suspension. I also began work on the rear wing support. I borrowed it from an AMT Lola.  Finally the decaling has begun!!!!  Well that's it for now. Jim |
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Post by Calvin on Mar 14, 2011 22:56:59 GMT -5
Wow WOW WOW!
Looks great!
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Post by Art Laski on Mar 14, 2011 23:29:52 GMT -5
Great work, Jim!
-Art
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Since we are back on track.
LOL
Pro Tech | MAD | Scale Motorsport
I don't have an app on it for downloading pictures either. So, as soon as it gets back I'll get you up to date. I've been taking pictures. For how slow this thing is, I'll be the last bidding on the Wildcat tomorrow, so I'll probably be in the second round batch. 
When it rains it pours!!