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Post by Deleted on Jun 3, 2009 11:40:40 GMT -5
O.k everyone, I've come to the conclusion that I'm not a painter, period, but since it's a major part of building models, practice makes perfect. I've only used the spray cans thus far. What are some tips out there for using spray cans. I'm not ready for the fancy paint gun and mixing your own yet. Any help would be nice. I know to prime the parts first, but I still can't get the few cars I've built to look the way I wanted them to.  Rodney |
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Post by macsparty on Jun 3, 2009 12:13:15 GMT -5
What kind of paint are you using? I tend to be a bit heavy handed, which has led to problems with Testors enamel. But I've discovered Tamiya paints are darn near idiot proof. I've also had good luck with Testors lacquers.
A few things I've learned: Warm the can (stick it in a bowl of hot water for a bit), shake, shake and shake some more, spray on low-humidity days, not too hot, not too cold. A rarity here in Michigan, but not so much a problem since I made a spray booth.
But probably the biggest discovery I made in modeling cars is that the best results are achieved AFTER spraying and letting it dry. Sanding and polishing can take a not-so-great paint job and really smooth things out and make it pop. It takes some practice so you don't sand all the way through the paint (I've had to redo some...), but the end results are worth it.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 3, 2009 12:25:06 GMT -5
All have been Testers. So I'll try Tamiya. I'm not from Michigan, but my parents have lived in Coldwater MI. for about eleven years. Other than the flying insects I like it up there. What kind / grit sandpaper do you use and what do you polish with? Thanks,
Rodney
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Post by beardogracing on Jun 3, 2009 12:29:18 GMT -5
Hi RT, this is how I do it: First I only use Tamiya rattle-can paints, they seem to be very consistent and work every time.
Prep the car, fine sand all over , get rid of all blemishes, sand until the body almost shines again. Use white fine primer. Mist the first coat on. Apply a wet second coat...let dry for a day.
Sand out any blemishes down and out of the plastic or resin, then just re-prime those spots. My goal is to get as thin a coat of primer on as possible. Next wait about 8 hrs and polish sand the whole thing again.
Wash the body in warm soap and water, get into all the nooks and crannies with a soft tooth brush. Let air dry, preferably under a tupperware container.
No the tough part (not really). make a jig to hold your part, out of a coat hanger, put the body or part on the jig, do not touch the part with your hands, use a new paper towel.
Get your can-o-paint, fill the tupperware container with warm water (shower temp). Put the can in the water for about ten minutes. While your waiting get a towel. Go outside with everything, stand in the sun (so you can see). Remove the can from the water...wipe dry, shake vigorously (the can, not you). Hold the part on it's jig in one hand, the part in the other.
Now we paint...mist on a fine coat...wait five minutes. Now take a deep breath and give the part a wet coat. We're in the sun so we can rotate the part to see the finish from every angle, spray just enough paint to get that wet look, no orange peel, then STOP.
Repeat two more times, giving it ten minutes between each application. Put in a dust free environment and ignore for two days.
Get a squadron polishing stick, and buff out any hickeys, polish with Tamiya polishing compound.
Apply decals....and apply a spare from that sheet to a scrap of plastic. Wait 24 hours.
Apply a wet coat to the decal on the scrap of plastic...if there's no reaction, you're ready to do the body or part.
Use the clear just like the paint...one mist coat...2-3 wet coats...wait 2 days polish and you're done.
If there was a reaction to the clear on your test decal, you'll have to use Future floor polish...but that's a whole other topic.
This is what I do...other masters have there own techniques, good luck...just remember paint won't hide nothing...especially Tamiya...if the hickey was in the plastic...it'll still show after 7 coats of panit and clear.
Just a note...7 coats sounds like a lot, it's not if you warm the can, each coat is very thin.
Again good luck
Chris
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Post by indycals on Jun 3, 2009 12:29:58 GMT -5
Pretty much was macspaty said. I will NEVER use Testors enamel again - and if you must, let it dry for at least 3-4 weeks before working with the parts.
When using Tamiya sprays - which I highly recommend - to insure color fidelity, use white primer. Tamiya paints are very translucent and grey primer will alter the color (black and metallics being exceptions). And always use primer even if you're painting the body the same color as the plastic (again, black and metallics are exceptions). Even white over white plastic will yield less than ideal results without white primer.
Another funky thing I've noticed when building some Ferrari's. When painting white over red plastic (again, this is with Tamiya paints), white primer - no matter how opaque - is not enough. The white paint will take on a pinkish cast no matter how thick the primer and final coats are. The fix: Paint the body silver (TS30), THEN prime with white, then the final white coat.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 3, 2009 12:43:23 GMT -5
O.k guys, information overload, but GREAT stuff!!! I will NEVER use Testors again. I think I got everything I need to know. Thanks a million.
Rodney
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Post by indycals on Jun 3, 2009 12:53:56 GMT -5
O.k guys, information overload, but GREAT stuff!!! I will NEVER use Testors again. I think I got everything I need to know. Thanks a million. Rodney Testors is good for somethings - their metalizer paints are great, and I use their semi-gloss and dull coat lacquers. It's just their gloss enamels that leave a lot to be desired. |
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Post by macsparty on Jun 3, 2009 14:11:19 GMT -5
Theoretically any paint should be usable. I used the cheap Krylon hobby paint I picked up at a Hobby Lobby on this one. It went on kind of rough, but I was able to sand it down and polish it out. Just shows what a little elbow grease can do sometimes!  |
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Post by mrindy77 on Jun 3, 2009 16:00:05 GMT -5
....yikes.....is that what Indy cars are going to look like when Humpy takes over THE Speedway?
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Post by mrindy77 on Jun 3, 2009 16:04:58 GMT -5
....invest in an airbrush and compressor your paint jobs will look much better.
Passche or badger single action and an inexpensive compressor from Sears. You have very little or no control from rattle cans. Air pressure in not controlable out of a can.
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Post by indy on Jun 3, 2009 20:16:12 GMT -5
italianhorses.net/ Alex has great tips and is an excellent builder. He puts his OCD to good work!! ;D Jordan
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