Kenny Brack's 99 Indy winning Power Team Dallara

[loranjr]

Hello Gang, I have been away from the board awhile and am finally getting back to do my second 1:18 die cast conversion project. I want to do Kenny Brack's 1999 Indy 500 winner, A.J. Foyt's Power Team Dallara. It is basically the same build as the Eddie Cheever car I did. Here is what we're going for.I am using two donor cars for this build. Found both on e bay. Paid $25 for the Maisto Tony Stewart Home Depot car and $45 for the Action Buddy Lazier Taebo car.
Disassembled both cars to this point.Then we will use these components for the build.

[loranjr]

I will try and show the build step by step for anyone that wants to give it a go. My first steps in the construction process is to cut off the short track wings from the undertray. Also cut off the side wings from the body. I used a coping saw for both the plastic and the die cast. then clean up with a dremel tool and files. Now I am ready to fit the front wing. I drilled out the center of the Action speedway front wing mount using a 21/64" drill so that it fits over the post of the Maisto undertray. This will also locate it properly. You do have to clearance the corners on the underside of the wing. Then using the wing as a guide, and lots of patience with a few files, I filed the contour of the wing into both the plastic undertray and the die cast body. Th trick here is to get a nice fit with half and half on the top and bottom. be careful as this will determine the final front wing angle. The wing is then sandwiched between the two with the front center screw snugging it all together.Then I filed the lower front corners and re contoured the front wing end plates to better match those actually used.

[loranjr]

[loranjr]

[loranjr]

Project Update Transaxle and Rear Suspension mounting.

Made some progress on the Brack car this weekend. Got the rear end modifications and mock up done. The first step in this part is to cut the front of the transaxle off just behind the lip on the top. You want to remove about an 1/8th of an inch off the front.




                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     This cut needs to be straight and square as it is this surface that will mate against the plate in the undertray. This will also determine the rear axle position and overall wheelbase. Next we need to cut the bottom of the transaxle flat just above the ears that are left on the bottom. You have to be very carefull when you get to the threaded post on the bottom. Remove just the top 1/8" where there are no threads, without damaging the threads below as this will be the main mount in the chassis. 


                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      Next we remove the front center using the dremel tool and shape it to fit the center post of the motor plate on the undertray. You also have to remove the rear lip of the undertray at the rear where it wraps under the gearbox. Then some fitting and shaping with files and such. You want to get the transaxle to fit low flat and square in the undertray. When you think you got it, you can mark and drill your mounting hole in the undertray. It should come out center about 5/16'' from the rear edge of the tray.


                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     Now we need to modify the underside of the body. You must remove the rear post and ribbing. Then you can mark and clearance the rear of the body to clear the suspension arms.  


                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     Now we can drill the holes and mount the rear areo kickers on the undertray which completes the rear end modifications and mounting.


                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     Starting to look like an Indy car now, next up is the airbox and cowl swap!

[harveythedog2]

A lot of work but we do what we have to do to get the car we want. For sure my least favorite era in Indycar but I admire the hard work and if it turns out as well as your Cheever it will be awesome. Thanks for the detailed step by step!

[indy]

Very cool. Kenny certainly was a great oval racer and still holds the only driver (other than AJ) to win while driving for Super Tex! I got a museum staffer to get me some interior shots from the car at the IMS museum this year but I was disappointed to find out that the steering wheel what not right.

Jordan

[loranjr]

Thanks for the comments Stu, and Jordan. For sure the car in the museum this summer (like many) was hardly as it was on race day. I did get some good pics of the side-pod openings, and Kenny's helmet logo. Had to jump the rope for that one. Needed it for Gary at GWS Custom Decals who has been great to work with in getting the race day graphics correct. But we're a ways away from that yet.

Made a bit more progress. I have made the cuts for the air box swap. 



After you get tops chopped, you need to cut off the front part of the air intake below the opening.




Ready for our first mock up. 




We can now do some filing and fitting to get close to what we want and sitting straight and center. Later there will be lots of putty too! Now I am ready to take the pieces I have and begin the messy part and break out the paint stripper. I got everything down to bare metal and then a coat of primer sealer on all the pieces. Ready for final fitting and attachment and then on to the body work.

[harveythedog2]

Looking good. Send me a PM with your address. I have a set of Brack helmet decals to send you.

Stu

[loranjr]

Thanks a bunch Stu for the helmet decals- You're the best!

Finally done shoveling snow around here and found some time to get back to the project and begin the bodywork and putty phase. Besides the air intake and engine cover mods I want to modify the cockpit sides and sidepod tunnel exits to more accurately reflect the actual race day car. The Foyt guys added bodywork to make the tunnel exits smaller and further back. I decided to cut some pieces of styrene to use as supports for the milli-put on the cockpit and sidepods. Now on to my least favorite part of putty and sanding and putty and sanding and priming and s



  

[loranjr]

Hello Gang  I have been away from the board awhile due to some computer issues with my laptop. This issue has caused me to lose all the photos in the cloud that were posted here. I still have them myself, but it is going to take some time to go back and edit and insert them thru the course of my build. The good news though is that in the meantime I have actually finished the build!  I am going to pick up here where I left off. When I have more time I will go back and re-post some of the photos going backwards.

Here are the cockpit sides and tunnel exit mods I did, and then the putty and bodywork.




 

  

  


Next up will be ready for paint!

[loranjr]

Final putty and primer then it was on to paint!




















The paint is four coats of Tamiya TS45 Pearl White over a base coat of Testors Flat White. The Foyt orange is 65 Ford Mustang Poppy Red. I was able to buy a mixed spray can from a classic car restoration paint supply on the internet. Then three coats of Model Masters Wet Look clear. Then two more coats over the decals.

[loranjr]

Then it was on to the decals.

I have to give a BIG thank you to Gary at GWS Custom Decals. He and I went back and forth over a good bit of time to get the race day graphics as accurate as possible. He probably got a bit tired of all my revisions but the end result came out very nice. Thanks again Gary!

Also a big thank you to Stu for hooking me up with Kenny's helmet decals. They really helped to complete the build.










About ready for assembly now!

[loranjr]

The last bit of fabrication was to modify and shorten the steering shaft in order for Kenny to grip the wheel properly. Then I could put the front suspension back together and prepare for final assembly. 

Lastly we had to fit the Action wheels to the Maisto front hubs. I just opened up the center hole of the wheel a bit with a knife. Then made a small sleeve out of aluminum tubing to slip over the spindle. Then snap the wheel nut from the Maisto hub into the center of the Action wheel. The finished piece will then snap over the spindle. I choose to paint the centers flat black to depict the car as it took the checkered flag and as it was in victory lane.

A shout out to Micheal @ IndyCals as his new tire decals really pop!


 








Ready for the finishing touches and final assembly.

[loranjr]

All the small details and final assembly are now complete and Kenny is ready for his victory lap!

Again a big thanks to all you guys here for your inspiration and knowledge.
To Ralph for steering me in the right direction from the start with the chassis and intake mods.
To Gary at GWS Custom Decals for all your hard work in getting the race day graphics right.
To Stu for the helmet decals. 
To Micheal at IndyCals for the tire markings.

There were some problems and issues along the way, (those stripes were a (expletive deleted)), and I can spot all the flaws, but I really enjoyed doing this build am am pretty happy with the results. Enjoy. Loran

[harveythedog2]

Super Duper Sweet Loran! I know how tough this conversion is and I think it looks fantastic. Great work!

Stu

[AJ]

Outstanding work!

[indy]

A tough conversion and a strong build. Do not beat yourself up, this is a really good result. Thanks for sharing. Good to have you back after the laptop issues.

Jordan

[Gary Davis]

Man Loran...you did a GREAT job on this building project! As for the mistakes you say you see...you're the only one who sees them. This car looks spot on to me....

[racermagic]

Want a 1/18 Kenny Brack '99 winner?
You gotta do it yourself. Car is VERY NICE. 
The comment about mistakes. Nothing is perfect.  Car is beautiful!!
I would be happy to display it with my other cars.
Cool peice.  
Thank's for sharing!

[jeffmasengale]

Great looking conversion. I made the Cheever and Back years ago. Very hard to do, but yours looks fantastic.
I especially like the small details of foam around the helmet and the antennas.

[loranjr]

insert quote hereSuper Duper Sweet Loran! I know how tough this conversion is and I think it looks fantastic. Great work!



Stu

Thanks a lot Stu, coming from you that means a lot! 
Loran

[loranjr]

Thank you guys for the kind words. I appreciate it, Jordan, A.J., Gary, and Racermagic.

 

[loranjr]

insert quote hereGreat looking conversion. I made the Cheever and Back years ago. Very hard to do, but yours looks fantastic.

I especially like the small details of foam around the helmet and the antennas.

Thanks Jeff. I made the antennas by taking some .021 stainless safety wire and dipped it in some black liquid rubber. For the antenna bases, I used Detail Masters 1:24 #3 compression fittings. (part # DM3023) When I was done with Kenny, I had to set it on my desk with Eddie, they do look good together.

[racermagic]

Impressive pair. They would help complete anyones collection. Thanks for the tip on the antenna's.

[indy]

Really great work! Love the pair displayed together.

Appreciate the tips, too!

Jordan