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Post by jaw12287 on Jun 18, 2017 0:48:12 GMT -5
Hi Everyone, I was wondering if anyone had any insights on chroming a diecast car? I thought at one time someone had posted a thread where they had a car dipped but I couldn't find it (I think it was a Bourdais car). Im not sure if the cost is too outrageous or the project would be too difficult but I would like to eventually do the car posted below. I also wasn't sure if the paint would adhere to the chrome surface or not. Any advice/info you could offer would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance!  |
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Post by sandysixtysfan on Jun 18, 2017 7:19:34 GMT -5
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Post by SWT500 on Jun 18, 2017 7:49:27 GMT -5
That paint scheme is a spotters dream come true!!!!
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Post by mrindy77 on Jun 18, 2017 8:38:36 GMT -5
I have used the Copy Chrome kit from Caswell Industries to plate metal parts for a 1968 Triumph motorcycle restoration I am working on. The kit cost $39.99. The process for 'real' chrome plating is that the metal you are plating has to be polished to a chrome like finish before it is plated. It is a tedious but imperative step in the process. I have achieved very good results using that kit. Another issue you will have is that diecasts are what they call 'pot metal' and that type of metal needs to be nickel plated before it can be chrome plated as the chrome will not adhere to the pot metal. So in your case it would require multiple steps. Caswell's site has very good info of what's involved.  |
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Post by jaw12287 on Jun 18, 2017 10:58:30 GMT -5
Thanks Sandy and Mr. Indy! Both replies had some great information that really helped out. It looks like that Spaz Stix stuff might be the better option to go with, as they have an Electric Blue and Candy Apple Red which seem to match up nicely to the paint on the original car as well. Has anyone else used this product? The pictures I've seen online other places make it look legitimate...
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Post by speedracer on Jun 18, 2017 15:09:31 GMT -5
I have used it. (Spaz Stix) It work well but nothing is chrome except chrome. Still I'd give it a try and follow the label directions. Good Luck...Lew
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Post by dusfincher on Jun 18, 2017 17:40:08 GMT -5
I've used both Spaz Stix and Alclad but not on anything bigger than wheels/suspension parts. They seem to give similar results but I've never gotten a mirror finish from either. But of course I may be doing it wrong!
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Post by alterrenner on Jun 19, 2017 5:02:34 GMT -5
Buried deep within the "I'm sure I remember" region of my brain, I have an image of Jay Leno showing a hood ornament that was repaired with filler and sprayed with a chrome finish. It was a broadcast, so the result could have been "massaged", but it looked good on film!
--Frank
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Post by harveythedog2 on Jun 19, 2017 7:05:32 GMT -5
Are you thinking of chroming the whole car and then painting over top the chrome? Not sure that would work?
Maybe Bare Metal foil chrome is the answer? Big project for sure.
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Post by jaw12287 on Jun 19, 2017 8:35:58 GMT -5
Thanks everyone for the info! If anyone else has ideas or suggestions, please pass them along! Are you thinking of chroming the whole car and then painting over top the chrome? Not sure that would work? Maybe Bare Metal foil chrome is the answer? Big project for sure. Thanks for the advice, Stu! That was what I was initially planning but wasn't sure if the paint would hold. Which puts me a a bit of a cross roads. Either I can use the Spaz Stix try to see if their paints layer well or I can just Crome it all the use decals as a wrap overlay (which will probably test every limit of my patience and Gary at GWS a fortune off of printing and reprinting decals for me haha Are there any advantages to the Bare Metal Chrome foil you mentioned? What does the process work like? Thanks! -Jake |
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Post by indy on Jun 19, 2017 9:26:24 GMT -5
Anyone ever see these Strike cars come up for sale? I remember someone here linking a website for a company doing conversions (keeping the wrong/stock DW12 piecs) and having a fleet of these Strike cars in production.
Jordan
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Post by mrindy77 on Jun 19, 2017 9:26:57 GMT -5
One of the advantages of real plating is that the material being applied is very thin. You will not lose delicate surface detail compared to painting. The whole car cold be chromed then use a candy color over the chrome.
I seriously doubt you will have acceptable results using bare metal foil on the entire care, due to the compound nature of the curves it will have to be done in sections and then you will have seams that when painted you will definitely see. Again, the body will have to perfectly smooth with out any blemishes as the Bare Metal Foil will accentuate any imperfections and they will be amplified when you go to paint the candy colors.
You may try contacting ChromeTech USA to see if he could chrome plate the whole car. I've had him do wheels and such, he has been in the hobby industry for 26 years. He may just chrome plate plastic items but he may have other options for you to pursue.
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Post by mrindy77 on Jun 19, 2017 9:46:56 GMT -5
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Post by jaw12287 on Jun 19, 2017 15:29:04 GMT -5
Anyone ever see these Strike cars come up for sale? I remember someone here linking a website for a company doing conversions (keeping the wrong/stock DW12 piecs) and having a fleet of these Strike cars in production. Jordan I do remember one of those popped up on ebay a while back. I was in a bidding war for it for a while, but it got too rich for me. If my memory serves I think it went for like $250 or more. For that price, I could have bought one of those high end Replicarz...and probably endured the wrath of the spouse. She can normally learn to live with the Greenlights I buy, but went into sticker shock when she saw the price of the Marmon Wasp Replicarz at the speedway. She already knows too much... haha |
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Post by jaw12287 on Jun 19, 2017 15:44:18 GMT -5
THERE IT IS! That was the thread I was trying to find. I must have overlooked it! |
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Post by Michael Chriss on Jun 20, 2017 0:01:09 GMT -5
I have yet to use this, I have ordered some. It looks interesting. Check out this video, turn the sound off and skip to about 1/3 of the way in. Molotov Chrome paintThey make markers, but they have a refill for the markers which is what this guy is spraying. |
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Post by indy on Jun 20, 2017 9:07:40 GMT -5
The chrome pen is nice. I do not have a picture on me but it is impressive. It does not dry as fast as I thought so my first time, I put a fingerprint in it  But it is really nice. I got the 4mm and am looking to get a 2mm next. I got mine at Hobby Lobby, was a good deal with the 40% off coupon! Jordan |
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Post by jaw12287 on Jun 21, 2017 18:00:04 GMT -5
Thanks Indy and Michael! I'll take a look at that brand as well. Gary at GWS suggested using Duplicolor chrome paint, anyone use it before? And if so, what were your thoughts?
Again, thanks for all the info so far! It's actually given me quite a bit to research that I hadn't considered before
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Post by pje on Jun 21, 2017 21:39:24 GMT -5
Just ordered Michael's Alonso decals and I'm going to have to deal with the "chrome horn" nose. Anyone ever try to polish the pot metal?
Paul Erlendson
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Post by mrindy77 on Jun 22, 2017 8:31:48 GMT -5
I just did this in about 5 minutes on the bench buffer(bench grinder set up with 6inch polishing wheels.) It is 1/43 Tin Wizard Bugatti fenders. After a few minutes buffing I hit it with a polishing cloth and some Simichrome polish. A very simple process...it could be even 'shinier' if I went through the process of wet sanding with 3200-12000 grit sanding clothes, then on the bench polisher...it is a quick and dirty example to show you that it can be polished. I suspect similar results could be done using a Dremel and a buffer wheel and white rouge.(polishing compound). Due to the fact it is bare, unprotected metal it will over time become oxidized and dull and would need repolishing. It could be 'sealed' with a gloss clearcoat which will not affect the 'chrominess' like spraying over Alcad or another chrome painted surface. At this point if I really wanted chrome instead of polished metal, I would use the Caswell Plating system. Plate with nickel then copy chrome. Then it would never need polishing again. It is real chrome at that point. Polishing will give you completely acceptable results as you can see by my example.  |
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Post by mrindy77 on Jun 22, 2017 9:54:58 GMT -5
You can see the reflection of my phone and hand in the fender...I'd say that is pretty shiny.
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Post by racewrench87 on Jun 22, 2017 14:02:10 GMT -5
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Post by senn65 on Jun 22, 2017 20:45:35 GMT -5
Alclad has a water base clear for their chrome. Will not dull the chrome like solvent base clear.
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Post by senn65 on Jun 22, 2017 21:02:43 GMT -5
I have yet to use this, I have ordered some. It looks interesting. Check out this video, turn the sound off and skip to about 1/3 of the way in. Molotov Chrome paintThey make markers, but they have a refill for the markers which is what this guy is spraying. Amazon $32 per one ounce. 30ml. |
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Post by jaw12287 on Jun 25, 2017 20:25:38 GMT -5
Thanks for this! I wonder what they charge for these... |
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Post by jaw12287 on Jun 25, 2017 20:38:34 GMT -5
Alclad has a water base clear for their chrome. Will not dull the chrome like solvent base clear. Thanks for this! I keep hearing recommendations for Alclad. I have seen a number of people have used it but I couldn't tell if it was from the spray can or from an Air Brush. As I don't have an Air Brush, has anyone used the stuff from the can? I keep seeing the Alclad for Lexan in spray can form. Would that adhere to the diecast as well? (properly primed/base coated, of course) |
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Post by kip on Jun 26, 2017 7:13:57 GMT -5
I have used the Alcad Chrome for Lexon from a spray can on metal tubing primed with Tamiya and coated with Tamiya gloss black. The results were very good. The gloss black has to be super smooth before spraying with the chrome.
kip
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Post by indy on Jun 26, 2017 13:00:25 GMT -5
The gloss black has to be super smooth before spraying with the chrome. I think that is true with all chroming options. Chrome highlights any imperfections. Regardless of what you use, the quality of the outcome has a direct relation to the prep. Same thing for the 1:1 guys, you can see the c/f texture in the Andretti chromed noses - probably a weight issue but shows the point. There are professional chroming shops that cater to modelers, too. Chrome Tech USA comes to mind and there might be others. Jordan |
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But it is really nice. I got the 4mm and am looking to get a 2mm next. 
