Rookie attempting Cheever conversion

[loranjr]

Ok guys, with three yellow stripes on the back of my wing, and a red flag flying from the cage, I am jumping in. I am going try my hand at converting a 1:18 scale Action 2001 Dallara Eddie Cheever Excite @ Home Indy car into his 1998 Rachels Dallara Indy winner. I know the two chassis are similar but yet quite different. I know it won't be exactly correct when finished, but I want to fill a hole in my collection and see what I can do. Originally I was planning on a simple re-paint and decals and let it go at that. But after reading what you guys are doing on here, I am getting more ambitious. I want to try and fabricate a new helmet pad as well as build up the cockpit and engine cover sides.  The 2001 chassis is stepped and the 1998 chassis is much smoother in this area. What would be the best method for this? Should I be using epoxy or bondo as filler? I have the car dis-assembled except for one thing, the windshield. So my next question is, what is the best way to remove the windscreen from the cowl without damaging it? It appears to be glued on a series of posts. I only get a chance to work on it a couple hours a week if I'm lucky, so it will take a while and I will ask lots of questions. Thanks for any help.

[harveythedog2]

Welcome to the world of Indy diecast conversions! Ralph would be a better coach for you on this particular car as I haven't done this one. However, I can tell you what I use as fillers. Whenever I need to form something I usually do it with plastic sheet first. This way you can cut it to get the shape right and the fill over it. I use JB Weld Quick a lot as well. It is a two part epoxy that dries hard in 5 to 10 minutes. If you time it right you can mold and shape it and push it into holes before it dries. It then sands very easy and I apply my filler or bondo over top of that. I have also used Milliput before too. You mix two compounds together and shape it to what you want.

As far as your windscreen goes, first look to see if the plastic tabs were melted over. A lot of times the tabs fit into holes in the cockpit and are melted over at the factory. Use a knife to cut the melted part off. If not. Your best bet is to grab the windscreen with two fingers and gently work it back and forth until it breaks free. Use a white glue that dries clear to put it back on when you reach that point. Hope this helps.

Stu

[SWT500]

Dr. Ralph to the OR stat!!!!!!!!

[senn65]

Go on Ebay & find one of these Maisto 97 Dallaras they're cheap. It's a RC car so you have to change it to a SW, both wings, Then lots of putty.

[loranjr]

Thanks for the tips guys. I admire your work.
Stu- How do you attach the plastic to the die cast? Or do you let the epoxy hold it in place? What is Milliput?
If I use this donor, I also have to add  the fin on the engine cover. My original thought was to cut a slot down the center and insert a piece of sheet metal thru it. Then solder or epoxy it from the underside of the engine cover, and putty smooth the seam on the outside. Or would you use plastic?
Ralph- Thanks for the tip on the rivets on the other thread. I had thought about heat but wasn't sure about melting something. I do have a couple of the Maisto cars in my collection. I had thought about using one for the donor, but ruled it out because of the road course wings and the fact that they are G-Force's with the different air intake. I choose the Action Dallara with the speedway wings and distinctive round intake. If you think that would be a better way to go, then maybe I'll switch to a back-up car! I assume that you would then fabricate speedway wings. Would you cut off the intake and form a new one? I could maybe use the intake and wings from Action car......hmmmm.

[senn65]

Best thing is Google a couple good pics of his car & decide what you can & cannot do with the donor of choice. Other than strip & paint doing custom one off cars there is no easy way. Some require many hours of work.

[harveythedog2]

Super glue at first. Then the filler, epoxy or bondo will hold it place from there. The Cheever winner is a very tough one to start out on so make sure you get all the reference you can.

[loranjr]

Thanks again guys. A picture is worth a thousand words. You have given me much to think about. Time to take the back-up car apart.

Daniel son says I see to Mr. Miyagi

[loranjr]

I have been away from the project a while, busy going to the 500 and then the SVRA Vintage shoe at the speedway, but have some time now to get back at it. Here is what I am starting with and I now have a plan. 

[Calvin]

I'm looking forward to seeing how this one comes out!

I like all your reference pictures too! Back in the olden days I use to print out Michael P's builds too! I used scotch tape and put them on my bedroom wall!

[clm1545]

You might find it helpful to buy the ARM kit of the car, and use it as a reference for your body shaping work.

[loranjr]

Thanks guys, I just might do that,  best reference I'm sure.
Well I started with some easy stuff first and removed the side-pod aero kickers and fitted the front wing. Went ok. I drilled out the center and was able to fit it over the chassis. A little overzealous filling will require some putty to tighten the gaps in the nose. 

[senn65]

Very good start. Good job on the front wing which is one of the hardest parts.

[loranjr]

Thanks Ralph. 

[senn65]

It's in the proper position as well so you paid good attention to that. I think this will be a good project b/c you're taking it slow. One of the hardest parts, well most of this car is difficult, is the head surround the way it comes up high on the sides.

[loranjr]

Well hello guys. Life got pretty busy over the summer and the project sat for a while. With the weather turning, I have finally found a little time to get back to work on it. With some modifications, I was able to fit the transaxle and rear suspension assembly from the Action donor to the Maisto chassis. Mounted the aero wheel kickers too. Also stripped the paint and put some primer on the bare metal. I have cut and swapped the air intakes and mocked it up here. I left the camera on for now and will cut it off later as it is a convenient handle for assembly! I think I am ready to begin spreading some putty now. Bodywork is not my fortay, but here I go!

[loranjr]

pics didn't come thru, trying again.  

[senn65]

Very nice so far, nice work on the engine cover & air box, it should look very nice when puttied in. I don't think the car had a camera. Now on to that pesky head surround. Here is a reference photo.

[indy]

Wow, great progress!

Jordan

[loranjr]

Thanks guys. Ralph your reference photo was a BIG help in getting the cut lines right for the intake.

[senn65]

Can't wait to see it finished, gonna be nice.

[loranjr]

Making some progress on the project. I have puttied in around the engine cowl and air intake. Then I raised and contoured the cockpit sides. Drilled all the holes for antennas, jacks,and caps. Dimpled the nose and cowl for fasteners.

[loranjr]

On to the helmet surround. I started out by cutting a piece of tin metal to the shape of the cockpit and forming it to the contour of the sides. I figured it would give me a good part line and act as a base to support some putty. This took a lot of time. Lots of back and forth. But I am fairly happy with the result. The fit isn't as tight as I would like, but getting there. I then shortened the windscreen and mocked upt the cockpit and driver. More putty and primer reveal that I still have more bodywork and finish work to do but I am starting to envision the end goal.

[chromehorn08]

Wow this is looking pretty dang good! Great work.

[senn65]

One of the hardest pieces to replicate & get right, very nice so far.

[loranjr]

Bodywork done and now in paint. I finally got the bodywork done and have painted all the pieces. I read all the posts on here in regards to this car and the colors used. I also searched thru many different photographs. This color can be difficult to replicate. Like most colors, light and shading play a key role. In my research I found various different photos where the car looks more turquoise in a dimmer natural light. Then others taken in a bright sunlight or flash where the car takes on a much more blue tone. I witnessed the race and wanted to get it right. Taking some info from you masters on this site, and after a few different spray outs on scrap pieces, I found what I wanted. Like has been said before here, if it looks good to you, that's what counts. I used Model Masters Grabber Blue for a base coat. I laid down two heavy coats. Then I sprayed two lighter coats of Rust-O-Leum Satin Lagoon for a topcoat. Then two coats of clear. I am pretty happy with the end result. In a soft florescent light it takes on a darker, more turquoise tone. In bright sunlight, or under LED lighting, and flash photos, the blue really comes out. Kinda like I remember the car. Now I think I am ready for the fun stuff like details, decals and getting this car race ready!

[senn65]

Color looks nice & it's finally getting to the end point. All I used was Ford engine blue but your mix looks nice. Nice glossy finish.

[gavkiwi]

I think you nailed the color, A very difficult color to get right.

I uploaded a photo, I don't know if you've seen Cheevers Qual shot before




It for sure looks very different in certain light conditions, fantastic WIP so far!

BTW, where did you get the cheever driver from? what model ?

[clm1545]

Very nice, so far. Great work!

[loranjr]

Thanks for the kind words and photos guys. I have the driver figure from the donor 2001 Action Cheever Excite@Home Dallara. This same car has supplied the speedway wings, air intake, wheels, side areo kickers, as well as the entire rear suspension-transaxle assembly. The wing uprights are not correct, but I am not going to try and fix that. They should be straight up vertically, where this one goes up a bit and then angles back to the rear some.