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Post by kip on Jul 6, 2015 13:23:15 GMT -5
I redid the engine. Lesson learned—I am better off using a hand drill than a Dremel. This time I added some more detail. I added all fuel lines, the lower coolant hose, and hose clamps. I am working on the velocity stacks now. I have the body in primer. It is a bash of the Big Donkey and the Garage 97 kit that BobbyC gave me. I didn’t like the seat or the dashboard (they were very slot carish—and after all, this was a slot car body) on the Big Donkey and the nose was rough. The tail and belly pan on the Garage 97 were rough. I used the tail and side panels from the Big Donkey and the Garage 97 from the cockpit forward. Lots (I repeat LOTS) of filler and sanding. Recut panel lines where needed. The frame has been installed and I put a bulkhead at the rear of the cockpit and firewall at the back of the engine compartment—both made from plastic sheet. I made a belly pan from sheet plastic and cut the hood out. Torsion bar tubes have been roughed in at the rear and cutouts for the front bars have been placed. Reshaped the nose opening a bit. kip
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Post by Calvin on Jul 6, 2015 13:29:21 GMT -5
Jaw dropping!
I'm speechless right now - I need to step away and regain my composure after seeing this! LOL!
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Post by 2lapsdown on Jul 6, 2015 13:35:46 GMT -5
Jaw dropping! I'm speechless right now - I need to step away and regain my composure after seeing this! LOL! What he said John
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Post by Art Laski on Jul 6, 2015 16:30:34 GMT -5
Great stuff, Kip!
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Post by IndyCarModels on Jul 6, 2015 18:03:48 GMT -5
I agree with Calvin
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Post by racerbrown on Jul 6, 2015 19:34:47 GMT -5
gotta love that major surgery... duane
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Post by clm1545 on Jul 6, 2015 22:08:17 GMT -5
Just super work, Kip.
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Post by kip on Jul 14, 2015 13:41:29 GMT -5
Working on the seat now. The restored car had a black seat with tuck and roll upholstery and piping around the edges. There was also leather covering the gap between the seat and the body. Started with a resin seat from the spare parts box. Used half round strips for the tuck and roll and piping. And finished. Lengthened the bottom of the seat and installed seat belts. Just needs paint. Next will be the instrument panel and the red paint behind the seat. Then decals. kip
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Post by 2lapsdown on Jul 14, 2015 22:16:41 GMT -5
Great to see this get the treatment it deserves.
John
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Post by racerbrown on Jul 14, 2015 22:30:28 GMT -5
the half round strips look good for the seat. that's why i love these wip's. i'm always learning. duane
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Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Jul 15, 2015 11:47:07 GMT -5
Great, great job!!!
I haven't any experience in soldering copper rods, but I have to try... which solder type do you use?
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Post by kip on Jul 15, 2015 16:02:35 GMT -5
I do not know much about soldering, but in this case it worked fine. I used .022 diameter rosin core silver-bearing solder and lead free tinning flux. And a basic soldering iron.
kip
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Post by Patrick on Jul 15, 2015 18:26:03 GMT -5
Great...simply great! Patrick
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Post by jamesharvey on Jul 16, 2015 13:38:50 GMT -5
These were special cars with a long legacy. There was a time when dirt track racing was part of the Champ Car circuit and part of the national championship. The influx of road racers in the '60s brought this to a close. Seeing a Ford 4 cam V-8 stuffed into one of these was really something. Kip is a master builder. I really enjoy what he does and, boy, does he show us how to do things. Good on you, Kip. We will all be looking for more. Jim
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Post by kip on Jul 20, 2015 16:32:17 GMT -5
Needed front tires for this build. The ARM/Etzels are too small and the Garage 97 are not very good, so I found some in my spare parts bin. Only problem was that they had no tread. Photos show Firestones with three grooves. Made a jig and cut some grooves. Paint and decals are on. Needs to be clear coated. Added the “bumps” on the hood to clear the cam covers. Decals are by Indycals for the 1964 Indy winner. Had to double up on the decals. The white showed through and it took a second layer of decals to match the Italian red paint. Behind the cockpit, I used the same decals in 1/64 scale. Had to do lots of cutting and fitting, but I think it came out ok. The number one on the nose is from Indycals 1/32 sheet--the 1/24-25 was too big for the dirt car. RB Motion for the upholstery snaps. Next is the dashboard, pedals, engine and plumbing. I made a mold and vacuum formed a wind screen but I won't put that in until I am nearly done. kip
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Post by indy on Jul 20, 2015 19:22:58 GMT -5
Great progress, Kip. This one is already shining, it is a knockout already.
Jordan
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Post by Calvin on Jul 20, 2015 19:34:46 GMT -5
Your build is 5 laps ahead of perfection!
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Post by gwstexas on Jul 21, 2015 8:48:13 GMT -5
Wow!
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Post by racerbrown on Jul 21, 2015 11:58:32 GMT -5
everything looks great kip! i'm interested to see what you made for a jig to groove the tires. duane
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Post by jamesharvey on Jul 21, 2015 12:28:38 GMT -5
This looks really great, Kip. I marvel at the level of your work. Your attention to detail is remarkable. This is a special car and your problem solving in special as well. It will fit right in the rest of your collection. Jim
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Post by 2lapsdown on Jul 21, 2015 12:35:38 GMT -5
Unbelievable, what an amazing job. Your obvious skills are matched only by your modesty.
John
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Post by kip on Jul 21, 2015 15:54:07 GMT -5
The jig for grooving the tires is just a sandwich of a plastic sheet, some spacers made of strips of plastic sheet, and a razor saw blade. It is clamped in a vise. The spacers are set to the width you want a groove to be from the edge of the tire and the saw is set proud of the spacers by how deep you want the groove to be. You set the tire flat to the plastic sheet and run it back and forth over the spacers and saw, turning it as you work. In the second attachment you can see where I slid the tire back and forth holding it tight and flat against the sheet. You can’t go too deep—the spacers control the groove depth. Once the saw is no longer cutting you are done. For the grove on the other side of the tire, you can just turn the other side of the tire against the sheet plastic, run it back and forth, and the two side grooves will be an identical distance from the outside of the tire. For the center groove you measure where you want it and add a spacer. kip
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Post by racerbrown on Jul 21, 2015 18:25:42 GMT -5
simple but effective, you gotta love it. thanks kip duane
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Post by Calvin on Jul 21, 2015 19:37:23 GMT -5
Outstanding!
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Post by kip on Aug 1, 2015 14:57:01 GMT -5
Hey, am I the only one building something this summer? Oh well, here is where I am at. And for those of you with young eyes, yes, the wheels will be able to be posed left and right. Can’t have a dirt car that doesn’t do opposite lock in the corners. The dashboard is in and the cockpit is pretty much done, except for the windscreen. The engine and radiator are also in, as is most of the plumbing. Apologies for the fuzzy photos. I should take some photography lessons from Calvin kip
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Post by Calvin on Aug 1, 2015 15:47:27 GMT -5
This is such a wonderful build! Apologies for the fuzzy photos. I should take some photography lessons from Calvin Just need more lighting preferably soft lighting. It's impossible to take pics in low light assuming you have a point and shoot camera set on AUTO.
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Post by racerbrown on Aug 1, 2015 19:40:02 GMT -5
This is such a wonderful build! Apologies for the fuzzy photos. I should take some photography lessons from Calvin Just need more lighting preferably soft lighting. It's impossible to take pics in low light assuming you have a point and shoot camera set on AUTO. good luck as it's hard to get on calvin's schedule these days. looking good kip! what did you use for the seat belts? duane
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Post by kip on Aug 2, 2015 7:21:03 GMT -5
Duane,
Thanks for looking. The seat belts & shoulder harness are Detail Master DM-2260 Racing Harness - Lever Type.
kip
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Post by sandysixtysfan on Aug 3, 2015 7:10:29 GMT -5
Great work, a really beautiful model.
Sandy
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Post by racerbrown on Aug 3, 2015 7:16:29 GMT -5
i wonder when they started getting away from using the "sam brown" belt. duane
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