Painting Problems

[IndyCarModels]

I recently purchased some resin cars from  Gary Fast of 80's Marchs and they are tremendous cars (will show builds in the  near future) but I am having problems with using Tamilya paints (spray cans) especially white on  them. I'm using a primer like always but it seems  like the gloss paints wants to  run and not stick. I can use an enamel and everything is fine. What am I not seeing?
Thanks  for any help.

[jwrass]

Dear Terry, What type of primer are you using? (IE Enamel/lacquer) How are you preparing the primer for paint? (IE Sandpaper Grit) Some of your problems seem obvious to me, however if you provide me this information I believe I can be of better help.
jwrass

[indy]

Are these resin bodies? If so, are you getting the mold release agent off first?

Jordan

[clm1545]

Are you using the Tamiya primer? Are you letting it cure overnight? Are you getting all the release agent off the resin before any painting? Are you warming the can before you paint? We are here to help, but we need more information.
Take Care
Craig

[IndyCarModels]

I'm using Tamiya primer  and yes these are resin bodies, According to Gary, I don't need to do anything to the bodies. However, I am wet sanding them a little before I primer but I am not letting them set 24 hours. Is that the problem? The paint stays in a warm place so that shouldn't be an issue.

I have never dealt with mold release  agents  before.

I try and use Tamiya paints on everything. I painted these just like I do my metal  cars but  it doesn't work. I usually start applying additional coats of paint after about  an hour. And keep adding   light coats on until I get  the finish I want.

Thanks for any help.

TerryB

[clm1545]

I would scrub the resin with dish soap and on old toothbrush after any sanding, Terry. letting the primer dry overnight might be overkill, but it can't hurt. I warm the can in hot water just until it feels quite warm in my hand. Off hand, I think you might be getting some kind of reaction from the resin. Try my system and let us know. It can't hurt, and just might solve your problem. It is just possible that you have a bad can of paint, it has been known to happen. Remember that the metal bodies are a heat sink, and resin is not.
Take Care
Craig

[IndyCarModels]

Thanks Craig, I will try. I did use several different cans with the same results so I think you're right  and it's probably a reaction to the resin. It doesn't do it with enamel  but I prefer not using it. I will let you know what  happens.
Thanks
TerryB

[jwrass]

Terry, I think you may have gotten some bad information!!! You indeed need to thoroughly clean resin before you apply any type of material due to the fact of the release agents used in the casting process. Their are variety of products you can use, Simple Green, Purple Power and the old stand by Westleys bleach white tire cleaner. I personally use Westleys. I use a disposable food container and submerge the item in the bath for a minimum of 24 hours. I then scrub the item with a tooth brush, vegetable brush and a red 3M scotchbrite pad, rinse well and let it dry. I then clean up all the rough spots, filler etc, Sand with 180 grit sand paper followed by a clean red scotchbrite pad to ready for the ground coat(primer)since you are using rattle cans I will give you materials you can buy at NAPA in rattle cans. I have been doing 1:1 custom paint and body work for some 35 years and buy in bulk for those builds but for my modeling I use these products in rattle cans with great success. The products that I will list I don't use on my 1:1 builds as I use PPG or House of Kolor products and I use one product line from start to finish. I never cross link materials, however for modeling I don't believe it's that important, Many of the 1:1 jobs I do exceed $10,000.00 so I do everything I can to prevent any type of rework. Enough said, back to modeling, put on some tight fitting gloves (you don't want the oils from your hands and fingers contaminating the surface) that will withstand solvents, use a wax and grease remover or lacquer thinner and wipe the subject down well with clean paper towels, the old adage wipe on wipe off. Mount subject securely, static electricity is always a problem with anything of a plastic nature that being said my next step is to wipe the surface with a solution of 80% water and 20% rubbing alcohol and gently dry, I use compress air on 1:1 but for models computer cleaning air in a can works great. Remove any airborne dust with a tack cloth with very light pressure. I use the same procedures on models as I do on 1:1 I just feel it's best practice. Next I use a adhesion promoter, for modeling I use NAPA # 7223 Polypropylene clear primer I apply two light coats of this material with a 15 minutes flash time between coats. Next I apply NAPA # 7283 Lacquer primer surfacer, three medium coats with 15 minute flash times. Next I apply NAPA # 7233 painters guide coat,one very light mist coat, this is only a aid to find imperfections in the substrate, I wait 24 hour before I start sanding the ground coat however you can speed the drying process with a hair dryer, be CAREFUL here. All the resin kit directions I have simply state to use a Lacquer based ground coat!!! No Enamel!! No Waterborne!!! I wouldn't hesitate using two part epoxy and I have used it with no problems. Based on your last post It sounds like you have a handle on the paint finish side,temperature etc. The thing that puzzles me with your problem is that you didn't have any issues in the ground coat like fish eyes or delamination when you sanded for final finish. I know this a lengthy reply however I feel this is best practice, thus there are no short cuts! I'm not a fan of any type of rattle can modeling paint for final finish. Step up to a good airbrush, you and your builds will thank you for it. I hope this helps. Any questions or comments are always welcome. jwrass

[IndyCarModels]

thanks for the reply. I had no problems with the 1st or 2nd primer coat. It was when I started adding the gloss coats.  I have a air brush but I'm getting old and lazy and just hate to clean it. I work in such a small scale (1/64) that I don't need much paint and I never had thisproblem with my metal cars. But I may have to start using my airbrush again.

Thanks for the help/

TerryB

[Calvin]

When I build resin I'll spend a good couple hours just cleaning it. Usally I tire bleach it, then I'll scratch pad it up with Dawn Dish washing soap (I'll only use Dawn because they help clean up oil spill victim birds).

The primer should give you an idea if the body is clean or not....if it isn't it will tell you for sure!

[Calvin]

and remember also whenever working with metal you NEED to use a self etching primer, just Tamiya Primer by its self is not going to necessary stick.



Whenever I do a diecast conversion or painting over any metal I first spray this on before white primer or paint in general.

[mrpeters]

I like Rustoleum or any other good self etching primer you can get at Walmart, Autozone, etc. and they work perfect. Should be olive green in color, typically. Sometimes its grey though. I then cover with white Tamyia primer and it's treated me well on the few conversions I've done.

[IndyCarModels]

thanks everyone for the help
TerryB

[fastlap]

Terry, love your other posts with the Sneva and Mears cars!!!!!

I usually brush paint, so I am also enjoying the recommendations.

To help Terry out, here are a few facts about my resins, so all can best make their recommendations.

- I don't use a release agent when making these resins, however, that's not to say the resin doesn't have it's own chemical properties.
- I have never pre-washed the bodies prior to painting. But again, I am brushing, NOT spraying
- I use Testors enamel paint found the tiny bottles you can get at any hobby store, etc.

I gave a much more detailed info on Terry's '84 thread. Hope this and that info will give all enough info to give advise to Terry?

Gar

[fastlap]

Here's one of the latest cars I did;

www.mb2501.proboards.com/thread/5815/1988-mario-1-64th-scale