My Xmas Gift

[ttocs78z28]

Done. Wow, I need some rattle can painting lessons from someone here. I just struggle with dark stains, runs, bubbles, voids…etc. Tamiya goes on sooooo thin, what else is available? As a kid I remember using Testors. Anyway………this is the 1/24 Monogram 1988 March Valvoline Chevy I received as a Xmas gift. I tried to make this kit into a reasonable facsimile of the 1988 Patrick Racing March Chevy that Emerson Fittipaldi drove to 2nd place (posted next day following threat of protest). Here’s the modifications and add-ons I made:

1) Removed engine cover rear wheel winglets and modified the cover to appear more like the Patrick car.
2) Added sparkplug wires.
3) Tried to add intake manifold plumbing
4) Removed chrome from wheels and painted black
5) Added exhaust heat shield cover onto top of transmission. (made from Coke can turned inside out).
6) Added heat shields underneath exhausts (made from wine bottle foil)
7) Added seat padding & seat belts(thin corrugated cardboard for padding & paper painted belts)
8) Painted in accordance with several reference images I found (seems like orange on the engine cover for the 88 car was angled but less pronounced than the 89 car). Used Tamiya white primer, TS26 and TS36.
9) Used sponsor decal set purchased from a friend of the Smoking Cowboy & Indycals 89 Patrick Racing decals and tire decals. Probably out of scale for 1/24, but my eyes aren’t that good.

[sandysixtysfan]

Very nice work! The extra detailing really stands out.

Sandy

[clm1545]

Nice work! There are some real painting experts here, so maybe they will chime in, I can only tell you how I do it.
After primer, I also use Tamiya gray or white depending on the topcoat color, use a fine scotchbrite pad and get the primer smooth.
Tack the body, get every speck of dust off.
Warm the can in hot water to 120 deg, or so. just so the can feels good and warm.
I mount the body on a stand or some kind of stick, you need to be able to move it to all positions. Move the part, not the can.
Plan on at least 3 coats, you might need more, but 3 is a minimum to me.
The first coat is very light, almost a dusting.
The next coat should result in an even color, go a little slower.
The last coat should give the gloss, again go a little slower.
With Tamiya or Krylon, the 2 I usually use, wait about 10 minutes between coats.
Anytime you see a blob, dust, or a run STOP. Let the paint dry overnight and sand with 1000 grit paper.
Some guys color sand and polish before putting the decals on.
I like the Testors "Wet Look Lacquer" for a clearcoat, but when in doubt I use Future. You will never have a clearcoat disaster with Future, and a lifetime supply only costs a few bucks.
I hope this helps.
Take Care
Craig

[indy]

I think it looks good, your build presents very well. Nice job with the research and extra detailing.

Jordan

[Calvin]

Awesome!

If you follow this (its my bible to using Tamiya paint).
www.tamiyausa.com/articles/feature.php?article-id=35


BTW the Smoking Cowboy asked me to tell you Hi.

[Art Laski]

Mar 4, 2014 22:58:30 GMT -5 Calvin said:

Awesome!

If you follow this (its my bible to using Tamiya paint).
www.tamiyausa.com/articles/feature.php?article-id=35


BTW the Smoking Cowboy asked me to tell you Hi.

I was going to post that as well. I mostly use an airbrush, but the one time I used Tamiya spray lacquers, I followed this guide and had as good a finish as I've ever had. Oh, and the article was written by our recent member Pete Johnson, so if you have any follow up questions, you'll know where to find him!