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Post by sandysixtysfan on Nov 29, 2008 11:48:25 GMT -5
OK, I'm back after a severe turkey and pumpkin pie hangover. Has anyone else out there used Tamiya's spray paint? I've been banging the drum about how well it sprays (and it really does), but I'm having a problem. Along with my '67 Turbine WIP I've had a shadow project on going, the AMT/Ertl '68 Turbine with the Sellers correction kit. I'm planning on posting the '68's construction pics after the '67 is done. As things go on my workbench I got around to decaling the '68 first while still detail painting the '67's body. I used the decals (Big Car Graphics) that came with the excellent Sellers kit. As an old habit from my airplane days I used Micro Set and Sol while applying them. Wasn't necessary to use that setting procedure as every thing is on flat glossy surfaces, but old habits die hard. Now several days later the paint around the large upper deck STP's and #20 decals has wrinkled. The rest appear to be OK, but they didn't got the volume of Micro Set and Sol that the big decals did.
Has anyone experienced this before using these products? Could this be decal shrinkage, a chemical reaction or what? Both models have dried for several weeks. I posted photos of the painted '68 some time ago, but that was before I stripped it down and re-painted it. But that's a another story for later! The '67 Turbine is ready to be decaled, but I'm holding off as it was painted with the same paint, the same way and at the same time.
Sandy
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Post by beardogracing on Nov 29, 2008 12:28:56 GMT -5
Hi Sandy,
Yes! The dayglow red is weird. But just this color. I've never had problems with any other Tamiya paint. The dayglow does not like decals, it reacts. Be very careful and do a test if your going to clearcoat, if you use Tamiya all yor white decals will turn pink, I don't know about future? Test first, because the problem is not the clearcoat it's something in the red, I've ruined 2 cars this way, I'll never touch any dayglow again. Yes I've also had the paint react with Micro Sol & Set, the paint takes weeks to fully go off, and your still not safe on the decal color soak thru problem, I clear coated a 68 turbine 1 year after painting and applying decals and everything was ruined. All other colors are great though, just this red.
Chris
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Post by sandysixtysfan on Nov 29, 2008 14:10:53 GMT -5
O Freakin' Great! Chris, thanks for the info. Sorry you had some models ruined, it hurts! I'll have to ponder my next move. I've used Future often for my final clear coats and it has worked well with everything (so far). I wonder if a coat of Future and then applying the decals would be a way around this? Anyone else had these experiences?
Sandy
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Post by herk56 on Nov 29, 2008 19:47:14 GMT -5
My advice with Future under decals is to use two coats of Future, applied a day or two apart and then let that dry for AT LEAST two weeks before decaling. I then wait a day or two before applying my finish coat of Future over the decals. A long process, I know, but it works.
I use this procedure on my slot cars, some of which are resin bodies and it works well.
Brian
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Post by lance on Nov 29, 2008 22:44:06 GMT -5
I have built several of these cars painted with Tamiya paint and have not experienced this problem , the only thing I did different was to skip the decal setting solution , I have had it react with other Tamiya paints , usually in a masking situation and even dry in different shades with equal coats from the same can ! ( damn M@r1b0r0 paint schemes !) But at least it has a gloss finish. Lance
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Post by sandysixtysfan on Nov 29, 2008 23:10:32 GMT -5
Thanks for the input guys. At least this problem surfaced before I decaled BOTH cars!
Brian- I'm with you on this, Future takes awhile to dry and it has to be throughly dry before you do anything to it. Spraying with Future then applying the decals to the '67 sounds like the safest plan at this point.
Lance- Yep, setting solutions can be tricky stuff. When I build an airplane the method that has always worked for me is Polly Scale color coats, then a Future gloss coat for the decals (to eliminate the 'silvering' since their military colors are all flat), then apply the decals with setting solution to get them down into the panel lines, then a coat of Future again to seal 'em, then a Polly Scale clear flat coat to finish it. Sometimes the solutions would 'frost' the Future, but a spray of Future would make it disappear. A little involved, but it works.
Now that I'm concentrating more on cars I'm trying to establish a system- the right combination of paints and top coat and when or not to use decal solutions- that works for me on cars each time like this one has worked on airplanes. And I guess the key words here are "works for me" as everyone has to find their own way of doing things that "works for them". Any thoughts and ideas are welcome!!!!!!!!!!
Sandy
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