|
|
Post by herk56 on Feb 21, 2013 16:06:17 GMT -5
Slit any wrinkles in the decals with a razor blade or scalpel, judicious use of Solvaset or Micro-Sol, a hair dryer, LOTS of patience and be prepared to do a little touch-up with paint. Indycals are pretty flexible to start with so you shouldn't have any major problems. HTH! I like and admire your building methods, I wish I could devote the time and money (for machine tools) to modeling like that, I'm lucky to just assemble a couple of plastic kits a year!
Brian
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Feb 21, 2013 17:04:09 GMT -5
Brian: Thank you for the decal advice. I'm not familiar with either Solvaset or Micro-sol. Can they be had at hobby shops and do they come with instructions ?
Herb
|
|
|
|
Post by herk56 on Feb 21, 2013 20:59:58 GMT -5
Here's a link to Microscale, the makers of Miro-Set and Micro-Sol. I recommend you get both products. Also, their MI-12 Decal Film is very handy for preserving/restoring old decals that tend to crack apart in water and can be used as a "glue" to help hold down decals with weak adhesive or decals that are too stiff to conform well. It WILL attack metallic paints, however! Brian www.microscale.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=FINPROD |
|
|
|
Post by herk56 on Feb 21, 2013 21:02:31 GMT -5
And here's a link to Solvaset, should be able to find it at any well-stocked hobby shop, esp. one that has model railroad supplies. Solvaset is VERY strong and requires practice and patience to get used to. It also can destroy some decals so testing is important, too. Brian www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/904-470 |
|
