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Post by raceparke on Oct 2, 2012 19:47:13 GMT -5
I have an idea about a 1963 1/25 Lotus using AMT parts. I would like to mount it on the "wobbly-web" wheels Lotus used in that era. Any ideas where to find something I could use will be appreciated.
TIA
Dan Parke
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Post by formula14kdc on Oct 3, 2012 2:37:36 GMT -5
First of all what's your idea? Secondly Revell made a slot car that came with wobbly inserts. You could possibly find a Revell body kit of the Lotus 25 that came with wobbly inserts on ebay. Hope that helps. Like to see your build and finish. The slot car was either 1/24 or 1/25.
Kent
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Post by kurzheck on Oct 3, 2012 7:46:54 GMT -5
I can provide resin copies of the "wobbly" inserts.
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Post by eagle36 on Nov 9, 2012 6:46:44 GMT -5
I have an idea about a 1963 1/25 Lotus using AMT parts. I would like to mount it on the "wobbly-web" wheels Lotus used in that era. Any ideas where to find something I could use will be appreciated. TIA Dan Parke Revell did two slot car parts packs, mirrors and wheel inserts in both, one with Lotus wheels, the other with Porsche, which somehow came with BRM kit. Check sots cars over on e-Bay, they often are there. You would need to find rims for them, so Kurzheck would be easier. |
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Post by kurzheck on Nov 9, 2012 9:47:22 GMT -5
My wobbly wheels are in rubber right now. They will be available shortly as will Dunlop tires and wheels. The tires are the big and little Dunlops from the Revell DE Mercedes 300SLR, the wobblies are built up based on Revell slot inserts and the Dunlop wheels are copies of the Revell DE XKSS wheels.  Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki |
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Post by raceparke on Nov 9, 2012 11:26:49 GMT -5
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Post by raceparke on Nov 9, 2012 11:36:11 GMT -5
Now that wobblies are available (THANK YOU TREVOR!!!), I am off and running.  The Lotus 29 is offset so track needs to be brought back to original spec. The proto 29 has track same as 25- 56 inches. I'll be using two long upper arms from kits but their mounting points need to be brought in closer.   |
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Post by raceparke on Nov 11, 2012 10:55:04 GMT -5
The pipes are cut from solder, bent and attached.  I cut off the radius rod brackets and glued to monocoque, since they will be body color as will the front bracket.  I added material to each side of the nose opening. This will be filed out somewhat to reshape the opening.  I also added to the headrest and removed the thick material around the cockpit opening and replaced with much thinner stuff, so the opening looka a little wider.  |
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Post by formula14kdc on Nov 14, 2012 3:03:18 GMT -5
Thank you for sharing your work. Great idea. I hope to finish my Lotus 29 myself. Keep it coming. I just saw some wobbles on ebay by Revell.
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Post by racerbrown on Nov 14, 2012 7:03:44 GMT -5
the smell of bondo is good!
i love watching a good w.i.p
duane
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Post by raceparke on Nov 14, 2012 17:16:30 GMT -5
An early version- I think the flat part of the top of the cowl is too long.  Also the tail needs to be flatter. . .  Obviously, more to come |
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Post by raceparke on Nov 14, 2012 17:33:02 GMT -5
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Post by teegeefla on Mar 27, 2013 8:33:51 GMT -5
Kurzheck/Trevor-
please let me know how to get a set of Dunlop tires and wobblyweb sheels. Thanks. Tom
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Post by Patrick on Mar 27, 2013 11:58:41 GMT -5
:DTrevor's work is excellent quality! His tires have great tread definition and I using a wider set on my Matra MS11 car (it's getting there!).
;)I have not before seen anyone do the prototype 29. Bravo!
Patrick
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Post by motorbill66 on Aug 30, 2024 15:51:56 GMT -5
I have a tough one for you: I have a Revell 1/24th slot body for the Lotus 23B, but that's all I got for my too much bucks. It's extremely accurate in all dimensions, to my surprize, and the shape is also about right on the button! I need wobblys for it, preferably with tyres, but that might be too picky. I believe the wheels were quite narrow, but have no real measurements. The wheel centers that come with the kit just will not do. Those British ones aren't up to snuff either. I also need a windshield, but that's out of the question, I'm sure! I'm building it up as a true replica; sawing out the slot racing 'flat' high up in the cockpit(just room for a head.) Yuk! I have photos enough to replicate the chassis, which I will solder up using small stainless steel tubing, which is easily obtained from " Component Supply". It makes far better radius arms as well. Believe me, if necessary it is very easily polished to a chrome bright finish. Or, sand it a tad and paint it. It's far easier to silver solder (a snap for sure.) As stated, stainless tube is so noticeably superior. People think it's the model is far better looking, but they just don't quite know why. I'll give a short demo of how easy it is if wanted. Again, it's a downright wonderful substitution. I've always said ,"Nothing looks like metal,like metal looks", when you can find small stainless tubing, and you can, in scads of small sizes, from far smaller sizes you'd need to far bigger than you'll need, believe me, and it's so much easier to work with you should try some. Too long, I know, but I wanted to share this with the group since it's such an improvement over the "chrome plastic", or even hard steel rod. I think I showed the 1959 Ward Roadster chassis I built from stainless. It's somewhere in the correct year span On the correct year span page. PLEASE try it. Use stainless rod, also available from Component Supply for sharper curves (still polishes up beautifully). The stuff works better and far easier that BRASS tubing or whatever. It's a load softer than mild steel, too. Surely somebody here has 'discovered' this before. If so, I'm sorry to waste so much of your time. But, those 'wobblies'....
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Post by leadercard on Aug 30, 2024 20:42:09 GMT -5
The 23 ran on 13" wheels. The Revell came with those size wooblies.
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Post by motorbill66 on Sept 3, 2024 13:52:53 GMT -5
Been on ebay. No joy. Looking again.The ones in the Aoshima MGB are the best so far. Scaling them, they are almost 15 inches in diameter in 1/24. But, that's not as far off as it sounds if they used 'reality' in design (oddly, 14 inches is the standard for an MGB wheel). All automotive wheels are called out by tire size, but actual wheels are about 1.5-2 inches bigger seen in side view. The bead area and the lip are larger. I may try cutting them down to size on the lathe. Then the quest for tires begins. But, I will search for them on ebay. Thanks for your suggestion.
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Post by pje on Sept 3, 2024 21:25:50 GMT -5
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