diecast repair

[Deleted]

I wasn't sure where to post this so I put it in the diecast forum. Can someone help/teach me the correct way to remove the clear coat on the MC cars. I have a PC23 and when I removed the decal on the nose of the car it leaves a yellow clear coat film above it that you can see a bit. How do I make this look nice and remove it?

thanks

[clm1545]

I don't do diecast but if I were you, I would try some fine polishing compound. If the paint itself is discolored you don't have much choice, strip and repaint.
Take Care
Craig

[senn65]

You have removed ONLY the ink, the film carrier is still on the car. I remove all Penske decals by scribing them then peel them off with my fingernail. The decals are usually applied in a group, that's why you must separate the ones to remove with a NEW hobby knife. Just lightly scribe above & below the one to be removed. There is no clearcoat on this particular car.

[clm1545]

Apr 24, 2012 19:18:33 GMT -5 senn65 said:

You have removed ONLY the ink, the film carrier is still on the car. I remove all Penske decals by scribing them then peel them off with my fingernail. The decals are usually applied in a group, that's why you must separate the ones to remove with a NEW hobby knife. Just lightly scribe above & below the one to be removed. There is no clearcoat on this particular car.

This man knows all about diecast.

[senn65]

I had to learn these things over the years. After so many years something is bound to sink in lol. In this particular time period decals were used & were not clear coated, that is why you find early MC decals lifting & silvering. Cars that are bought off Ebay may have had several owners with several different humidity environments causing decals to dry out & lift. Today almost all model companies use Tampo printing which is a special paint. This can be removed with nail polish remover (acetone) but will also remove paint on the car if not familiar with using it. With acetone you must wipe quickly with no continuous rubbing & the tampo can be removed with no paint damage. Acetone drys instantly, so if all the ink is not removed with the first wipe a second wipe will usually do it but dampen the rag (wrapped around your finger) with acetone on a new spot. One or 2 strokes will do it. Do not try this with decals, just tampo. Decals & paint can also be removed with ELO (Easy Lift Off) on a Q tip. I have a tub of this that I soak my plastic parts in overnight & remove all decals & paint the next day by rinsing under the faucet. It will not harm plastic. I also use a wooden tooth pick on dry decals to remove them. The pick will not scratch the paint. You can try all these methods with a car that you intend to completely strip. Practice makes perfect. Hope this helps.

[INDY22IAM]

Those are really good tips. I learned something new today. ELO is not just a band. I will have to get some of the stuff. I have a hard time taking the paint of MC plastic parts. Thanks for the words of advise.
Should we start a new category called tips on modeling or something in that nature? It would be nice to learn or places we could go to learn how to do things better. Just a thought.
Thanks again for sharing your wisdom.

[senn65]

Apr 25, 2012 7:42:07 GMT -5 INDY22IAM said:

Those are really good tips. I learned something new today. ELO is not just a band. I will have to get some of the stuff. I have a hard time taking the paint of MC plastic parts. Thanks for the words of advise.
Should we start a new category called tips on modeling or something in that nature? It would be nice to learn or places we could go to learn how to do things better. Just a thought.
Thanks again for sharing your wisdom.

Yes one of my favorite bands...ELO. Give it a try. I made a little basket out of wire screen with wire handles & place the parts in. I get mine from Micro-Mark & most of my tools, styrene etc.