Airbrushing

[stonecold44]

Taking a guess that I'm in the minority, does anyone else here primarily use paint from a spray can? I'm going to be buying an airbrush because there are better options for the amount of colors you can obtain.

My question then is multi-fold:
1) What are the biggest differences between using a can and an airbrush?
2) What are the cost differences?
3) What can I expect the first few times I use an airbrush? Will my paint jobs really suck or will they be easier to manage?
4) And the big question is; what type (make & model) of airbrush and compressor do you recommend?

As always, thanks for the help guys.

Gregg

[Deleted]

Hey Greg,

I'll try to answer these questions, but first you must know...I have grown to be a "lazy" modeler over the years and I tend to take the easy way out.

1) What are the biggest differences between using a can and an airbrush? - The can is easier.....less clean up. The way to get a good even spray is to pre-heat the can......use hot tap water over the outside first. Also, primer the kit body. I use Dupi-Color scratch filling primers and depending on the color, if the body is white I use white primer over it....If the body is yellow or red, I use white primer as well. The three toughest colors to paint are red, yellow and white. I have use lacquer paint for years now. It dries fast and hard. It's easy to wet sand a great finish too

2) What are the cost differences? - Cans tend to be about $5.00 a can, depending on the brand. Some auto paint lacquers are about the same, so take your pick.

3) What can I expect the first few times I use an airbrush? Will my paint jobs really suck or will they be easier to manage? - Depends on your talent ans time. You can get a great finish if you take the time with both. I like to wet sand my paint jobs on both. It's up to you and the time you take.

4) And the big question is; what type (make & model) of airbrush and compressor do you recommend? - I use a badger airbrush and an old badger compressor. I use cans most of the time today, but there are still times I whip out the old badger airbrush. Like with the 1964 Winner........I had to use an airbrush to get the pearl white correct. It's easy to clean up and take apart.

Hope that answers the questions

Russ

[stonecold44]

Thanks Russ. You gave me great answers. I was starting to think there was something wrong with me or that my builds' appearances would suffer because I didn't use an airbrush. Since you mentioned using lacquers, what brand do you use?

[Deleted]

The biggest plus for me is that you have an infinite color palette and better control with an airbrush.
I primarily use Tamiya acrylics and the jars last a lot longer than a hobby size spray can and they cost less as well.
As with anything: practice, practice, practice.
I use a Badger 150 and I really like it. I got it here:

bearair.com/

G

[Deleted]

Common lacquers are Duplicolor in spray cans, Duplicolor Paint Shop in quart cans (limited colors so far) MCW which sells specialized lacquer bottles, and House of Kolor. There are more, but they are not available in all areas due to our wonderful tree hugging friends (I ain't always politically correct, sorry!).

Mongo

[sandysixtysfan]

Hi,
Good advice from the guys already. If its OK, I'll add my 2 cents as well.
- Most of my painting is with an airbrush, unlimited color choices, the best for painting small stuff (smooth, thin coats)- engines, suspensions, shading exhaust pipes, Good for overall bodys - an airbrush makes it easy to get into tight areas without a ton of paint flooding the details, etc., BUT I have gotten real nice paint jobs out of 'rattle cans' recently especially the Tamiya ones using Russ's method.
-If you get an airbrush, get a good one. Not the one hanging above the Testors paint rack in WalMart. Good starter brushes would be the Paasche "H" or Badger 350 single action types (stay away from double action types for now as they are hard to learn on, expensive and harder to clean). They're affordable (compared to double action ones), easy to use, paint real well (they'll will get better with you), easy to clean, last forever. Air sources, you can start with a 'propel' can (when using it, set it about a third into a container of water to help equalise the temperature change- sometimes it will frost up), compressors are best, but before you spend the bucks make sure you're going to stick with airbrushes. Inner tubes with available adapters work or you can get an inexpensive air tank at Wal Mart or Home Deport and fill it up at the gas station.
-TWO Important things that seem to cause the most problems for new airbrushers: 1) Thin your paint! Air brushes are designed to spray thin, almost water thin paint. Ball park ratio for hobby paints, about 40% thinner to 60% paint. You'll have to experiment with the ratio depending on the paint. 2) Throughly clean it after each use!!!! Run plenty of thinner through it, or even better, take it apart (easy operation on the "H" or 350), clean inside the nozzle assembly with a q-tip or pipe cleaner soaked in thinner.
-Practice, practice, practice. You'll see a difference each time you use it by changing the thinner ratio, air pressure, distance from brush to model, etc. Get use to using it!!!! Everyone develops their own technique that works for them.
All the best, Sandy

[indy]

You can still do a great job with cans but one reason I want an airbrush is unlimited color possiblities when you mix paints.... you can't mix colors with spray cans....

Jordan

[drdave]

Ok I'll add my part. I use a Paasche VLS double action. What everyone else says is probably true about being harder to use however I started using mine about 30 years ago when I started doing taxidermy. Once you figure it out you can go from spots, to fine lines to a broad spray all with trigger control. I use the medium tip and find I can do everything from A to Z with it.

[wrencher]

Might as well add my two cents too. If you use the model master paints, or any of the enamel paints such as "Boyds", you can thin them with lacquer thinner, This thinner can also be used to clean the airbrush. I've been using a Paasche "H" for about 20 years. Parts are available for it from several sources. A gallon of lacquer thinner can be obtained from Wall Mart. The last gallon I purchased was about $8.00. Thia was of course before the gas crunch hit us. Use an eye dropper to add it to your paint cup. Just pour a small amount into a clean jelly jar with a lid. I bought my last compressor at a Kragen auto parts house for about $57.00 and it has given me great service. Good compressors can also be obtained fro Wall Mart for about double this price. One reason I recommend learning to use an airbrush is it will allow you to use the excellent metalizer paints known as "Alclad". This paint is available in several different shades of aluminum as well as polished aluminum and chrome. Used properly with the right primers, they will produce excellent results. As always, use proper ventillation with all painting equipment!!! After you have mastered an airbrush, you will never use a rattle can again. I didn't mean to run on this long. Regards from Wrencher.

[Deleted]

Jul 29, 2008 0:11:35 GMT -5 wrencher said:

If you use the model master paints, or any of the enamel paints such as "Boyds", you can thin them with lacquer thinner, This thinner can also be used to clean the airbrush.
A gallon of lacquer thinner can be obtained from Wall Mart.
Use an eye dropper to add it to your paint cup. One reason I recommend learning to use an airbrush is it will allow you to use the excellent metalizer paints known as "Alclad". This paint is available in several different shades of aluminum as well as polished aluminum and chrome. Used properly with the right primers, they will produce excellent results. As always, use proper ventillation with all painting equipment!!!

I use the same techniques myself. Very good points Wrencher!

G

[indy]

Jul 29, 2008 0:11:35 GMT -5 wrencher said:

As always, use proper ventillation with all painting equipment!!!

Here's G aka DukeCador



I have a similar mask for painting with solvent-based paints.

Jordan

[sandysixtysfan]

Yep, good point about the safety issue, plus looking at the photo dukacador won't have to stop if theres a bio-chem attack while he's painting!

[Deleted]

Yeah I had lost enough brain cells up to that point.
May as well try to keep the few that remain!

G

Safety first.

[stonecold44]

G looks like a young dude. How many brain cells could be gone at that age? Never mind, I remember being young once.

Seriously, thanks for all the great suggestions. Now I have to figure out how much I want to invest in a good airbrush set-up and then practice on all my crappy street cars.