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Post by indycals on Jul 21, 2011 14:06:54 GMT -5
First of all - a big thanks to Eric in assisting me in getting the right body, wheels and seat for this car (This is the 1/24 Hot Wheels diecast). I'll be frank - this paint job is NOT fun. I used Testors Racing Orange (dayglo) which goes on flat, only to find out later that Tamiya makes a gloss dayglo orange in their mini 4wd line of paints: www.tamiya.com/english/products/list/ms.htmAfter applying the dayglo orange, I coated the orange with testors clear gloss lacquer, even so, the orange is so flat that it just soaks up the lacquer and it's still hard to get a good gloss. I debated between pearl white and ts 26 white for this car. The car did have a bit of a pearlesence to it, but in my photos it was so hard to see that I opted to with TS26.   |
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Post by harveythedog2 on Jul 21, 2011 14:17:56 GMT -5
Looks great Michael! I will be doing a 1/18th scale version starting next week.
Stu
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Post by illeagle10 on Jul 21, 2011 14:36:35 GMT -5
Stu, I used the Testors Flo-orange on my Penske. Then used the Tamiya clear. I'll probably do the same when I do my resin. The Testors was a pain at first, but I believe I got the hang of it now.
Jim
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Post by Calvin on Jul 21, 2011 23:58:25 GMT -5
I'll be frank - this paint job is NOT fun. That is why I want to do it.  Nice paint job thus far.....its hard to be the first one to tackle the tricks to this color and paint job. BTW you need to get rid of the dot at the end of your link - it doesn't work.  |
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Post by stonecold44 on Jul 22, 2011 0:54:43 GMT -5
I'll be frank - this paint job is NOT fun. That is why I want to do it. Nice paint job thus far.....its hard to be the first one to tackle the tricks to this color and paint job. BTW you need to get rid of the dot at the end of your link - it doesn't work. Fixed That For You (FTFY) |
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Post by Calvin on Jul 22, 2011 0:59:33 GMT -5
TY (Thank you)  |
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Post by Calvin on Jul 22, 2011 1:02:25 GMT -5
I'm guessing TS-31 Bright orange wasn't hot enough? It sure looks hot on the Mazda 787b Lemans car.
no never mind.
Man that orange that you used is bright! after comparing it to other bright orange race cars.....
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Post by indycals on Jul 22, 2011 1:30:47 GMT -5
I'm guessing TS-31 Bright orange wasn't hot enough? . Oh heck no.... dayglo orange, nothing else will work. |
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Post by Calvin on Jul 22, 2011 1:44:59 GMT -5
I'm guessing TS-31 Bright orange wasn't hot enough? . Oh heck no.... dayglo orange, nothing else will work. How about this?  Im just joking. I've actually seen a friend try to use it on a model before.....it came out kinda chalky. LOL |
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Post by indycals on Jul 22, 2011 2:25:44 GMT -5
Oh heck no.... dayglo orange, nothing else will work. How about this? Im just joking. I've actually seen a friend try to use it on a model before.....it came out kinda chalky. LOL Unfortunately that's the nature of most dayglo paints. If I had it to do over, I'd try to get the Tamiya paint. I doubt the Rustoleum is any worse than the Testors. |
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Post by Calvin on Jul 22, 2011 2:34:53 GMT -5
Unfortunately that's the nature of most dayglo paints. If I had it to do over, I'd try to get the Tamiya paint. I doubt the Rustoleum is any worse than the Testors. Trust me its worse, that's marker paint for the ground. LOL |
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Post by indycals on Jul 22, 2011 2:52:32 GMT -5
I just applied my first dayglo marking and it went nice and smooth. There is an outer layer that needs to be pulled off once the marking is in place - when this is removed it the remaining vinyl is remarkably thin.
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Post by harveythedog2 on Jul 25, 2011 6:46:16 GMT -5
Michael. I cannot seem to get the outer layer of the Day Glo marking to release and leave the marking on the surface. Is there a trick to this that I am missing?
Stu
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Post by SteveK51 on Jul 25, 2011 10:26:53 GMT -5
Having not received my set of decals yet I cannot be sure Stu, but the vinyl decals I'm familiar with come in 3 layers; sticky paper over the decal over clear plastic.
Sometimes the paper tries to pull the decal off the surface, is this what you're referring to? Pull the paper back at a very steep angle (doubled over on itself pretty much) and the decal should stay behind. It still might pull off the surface but it should separate from the sticky paper, in which case you just push it back down.
Again I don't have the material in front of me, but another trick that works well is to pull the paper at an angle so that only a corner of the decal is initially trying to separate as opposed to trying to separate the full edge of the decal from the paper at once.
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Post by indycals on Jul 25, 2011 12:24:30 GMT -5
Hi Stu
I had to coax them apart with the tip of a fresh exacto blade.
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Post by harveythedog2 on Jul 25, 2011 13:51:24 GMT -5
Mine will not coax it seems. I am going to see if heating them with a hair dryer works tonight.
Stu
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Post by Calvin on Jul 26, 2011 0:22:35 GMT -5
I got my decals today! Wow pretty impressive! For how hard the chrome is to do for you it looks great to me. Thanks Michael!
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Post by Calvin on Jul 26, 2011 0:30:07 GMT -5
Do you guys just use Lacquer thinner to strip off the original paint on these die cast?
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Post by harveythedog2 on Jul 26, 2011 6:54:10 GMT -5
Calvin, you can use any paint/varnish stripper found at any hardware store. Use an old brush to brush it on and with-in five minutes the paint will start to bubble off. Wash it off really good and then wash it again.
Another tip that will save you some headaches is to use a self etching primer. Self etching primer really sticks to the diecast metal and that is a must for a two tone paint job. Nothing worse than peeling off your masking tape and it lifts off the base coat.
Michael, I think I found the key to the vinyl markings! When I originally applied them I was anxious to remove the plastic backing but the marking would not release for me. I was going to apply heat last night but decided to give it one more try. To my surprise the backing came off really easy and left the marking on the car all by itself! I had originally burnished the marking really good so I guess just letting it sit for a day let the markings set into the paint? Anyway I am very happy with the result.
Stu
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Post by pje on Jul 26, 2011 13:24:05 GMT -5
Do you guys just use Lacquer thinner to strip off the original paint on these die cast? Calvin, I just go to my local automotive store. In the paint area you will find paint stripper in rattle cans. A lot of the time it's labeled "Aircraft Paint Stripper". It's water soluble, so all you have to do is spray it on and then rinse it off with water a few minutes later. I have a gravel area in my yard where I park my trash cans. I do my stripping there so the stuff doesn't get on my grass. Paul Erlendson |
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Post by Calvin on Aug 17, 2011 0:01:59 GMT -5
I used Testors Racing Orange (dayglo) which goes on flat, The other day I found some RC flo Orange Pactra Lacquer, which is made by testors......I tried it out, it seems no different than what you used. I also sprayed some Tamiya clear over it and it looks fine.....as of now. Normally I would of got the tamiya flo but none was at the hobby store and I didn't feel like putting too much money into my first diecast. |
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