dale
Rookie
Posts: 92
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Post by dale on Jul 1, 2011 21:39:53 GMT -5
Any suggestions on how to apply the tire lettering supplied with this model?
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Post by 2lapsdown on Jul 2, 2011 6:19:06 GMT -5
All I can add is follow the instructions very carefully. I don't have any tips or tricks for this application.
John
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Post by illeagle10 on Jul 2, 2011 6:57:29 GMT -5
Dale,
I believe it's quite easy to apply the dry transfer decals to the Tamiya kits, with great results. As John says the first step is to follow the directions carefully. On my WIP of the PC-23 I have given a little more insight to applying decals on tires. I have cut and pasted the narrative from there so you don't have to look for it on the link.
"There are a couple of ways to apply logos on tires. There are also a number of things to consider when applying them. One of the things to consider is the medium they're being applied to, rubber or paint. In either case both surfaces should be smooth. I'll address this in a minute. Another consideration is the type of decals you are using. There are two types of decals that you can use. The first is the water-slide type of decal and the second is the rub-on type of decal. Either can produce great results!
Much can be done in preparation to help with the placement of the decals. As for the tires if there is raised logos, you'll want to remove them, if possible. Much of this depends on the type of rubber that is used to mold the tires. That is why most modelers like resin tires, because they can easily remove any raised logo and paint them to the shade they want. Then it is just like applying a decal to a model. When the logo is removed from the surface, the surface must be as smooth as possible. With the rubber type of tires, I will usually go through a polishing system to make the tires smooth. Once that is completed a clear gloss is sprayed on the sidewalls to seal the rubber or painted resin tires as the base for the water-slide decals. When cutting out decals, you should as cut as close to the decal as possible. Once applying the decal, you'll want to use a decal prep such a Micro-set and then a decal softener, such a Micro-sol or Solvaset. This will help the decal "suck" down on to the surface. Then a coat of semi-gloss or matte clear can be sprayed over the surfaces where the clear gloss was applied. Let me stop here and address the rub-on type of decals.
As for the model here, I used the Shabo rub-on decals. Due to the fact that I would be handling the tires a little more than I would have liked. The wheels I used were one piece and had to be pushed through the tires instead of the older two piece wheels, which push on from either side of the tire. I didn't want to take the chance of decaling the tires and then have the logo come off by trying to pry the wheels into the tire. I also didn't want to apply the water-slide type after the wheels were installed, because I didn't want to apply a matte finish to the chromed wheels. My solution, rub-on decals. These type of decals need to be cut out with care. I usually cut these close to the decal, but leave a small area on the decal so I can hold it in place without actually touching the decal. Once in place the decal is then applied by rubbing on top of it thoroughly. The draw back is, this is a "once and done" deal! If you "flub it up" there's usually no second chances with that particular decal. Chances are if you haven't done it before you should have a few extra handy for mistakes. As a side note Shabo rub-on yellow Indy decals seem hard to come by these days.
These are just a couple of my solutions. I'm sure you may hear a couple of other solutions from the forum. All are good answers, because there are some excellent modelers here, you just have to find out what you're comfortable with and give it a try!
Hope this helps you out,
Jim"
Dale the part on the Shabo rub-on decals are the same type of decals that Tamiya has in their kits. Again take your time and make sure you rub the decals thoroughly.
Jim
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