Applying tire decals

[Deleted]

I can see this site will be very helpful indeed. I have another rookie builder question. Most of the indy car kits that I've got have raised lettering on the tires. How do you use the tire decals on them from indycals. If I don't ask I'll never know! Thanks again guys.

[illeagle10]

Frank, this is an excerpt from the 1994 Penske that I'm building, but should help you out with tire decals.

There are a couple of ways to apply logos on tires. There are also a number of things to consider when applying them. One of the things to consider is the medium they're being applied to, rubber or paint. In either case both surfaces should be smooth. I'll address this in a minute. Another consideration is the type of decals you are using. There are two types of decals that you can use. The first is the water-slide type of decal and the second is the rub-on type of decal. Either can produce great results!

Much can be done in preparation to help with the placement of the decals. As for the tires if there is raised logos, you'll want to remove them, if possible. Much of this depends on the type of rubber that is used to mold the tires. That is why most modelers like resin tires, because they can easily remove any raised logo and paint them to the shade they want. Then it is just like applying a decal to a model. When the logo is removed from the surface, the surface must be as smooth as possible. With the rubber type of tires, I will usually go through a polishing system to make the tires smooth. Once that is completed a clear gloss is sprayed on the sidewalls to seal the rubber or painted resin tires as the base for the water-slide decals. When cutting out decals, you should as cut as close to the decal as possible. Once applying the decal, you'll want to use a decal prep such a Mircro-set and then a decal softener, such a Micro-sol or Solvaset. This will help the decal "suck" down on to the surface. Then a coat of semi-gloss or matte clear can be sprayed over the surfaces where the clear gloss was applied. Michael's Indycals decals are perfect for this type of decaling.

Let me stop here and address the rub-on type of decals. As for the model I'm building here, the 94 Penske, I used the Shabo rub-on decals. Due to the fact that I would be handling the tires a little more than I would have liked. The wheels I used were one piece and had to be pushed through the tires instead of the older two piece wheels, which push on from the side of the tire. I didn't want to take the chance of decaling the tires and then have the logo come off by trying to pry the wheels into the tire. I also didn't want to apply the water-slide type after the wheels were installed, because I didn't want to apply a matte finish to the chromed wheels. My solution, rub-on decals. These type of decals need to be cut out with care. I usually cut these close to the decal, but leave a small area on the decal so I can hold it in place without actually touching the decal. Once in place the decal is then applied by rubbing on top of it thoroughly. The draw back is, this is a "once and done" deal! If you "flub it up" there's usually no second chances with that particular decal. Chances are if you haven't done it before you should have a few extra handy for mistakes. As a side note Shabo rub-on yellow Indy decals seem hard to come by these days.

These are just a couple of my solutions. I'm sure you may hear a couple of other solutions from the forum. All are good answers, because there are some excellent modelers here, you just have to find out what you're comfortable with and give it a try!

Hope this helps you out,

Jim

[Deleted]

Thanks a bunch Jim for the info. I think I'm going to try and remove the lettering.

[stonecold44]

Frank
The first time I saw the Shabos, I asked Greg (DukeCador) how he prepped the tires. His explanation made sense and I've used the technique ever since.
You'll notice his reference to a "sanding stick". Those are basically thick nail files and you can get them in various grit grades.

mb2501.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=cart&action=display&thread=8

Good luck. As you're finding out, our members are the smartest, most sharing group anywhere.

[Deleted]

Thanks stonecold, I'm off to buy a sanding stick. Frank

[kurzheck]

I don't get mine at a hobby shop, grab one from the nail polish section in the cosmetics department. I can get about 1/2 a dozen for $2 vs the hobby store variety.

[Deleted]

thanks for the tip

[danny]

Bumping an old one, but seemed like the best place!

I'm seeing some negative results on some tire decals I've applied recently, albeit only appearing after a couple weeks. Based on the info in this thread, the step I missed was applying an initial gloss coat prior to decal application on the tires. These tires are vinyl rubber, and I did everything else described here - cleaned the surface, used Solvaset, and applied a matte laquer topcoat (Tamiya Flat Clear TS-80). 

The finished tires looked fantastic at first. I then noticed, after a couple weeks went by, that the sidewalls grew slightly tacky, which they weren't before - I'm assuming this is a chemical reaction between the vinyl rubber and the laquer. There is also a slight sheen over the decal, which also wasn't present initially - not a typical "silvering", but you can pick out the glossier decal compared to the matte finish on the remainder of the sidewall - plus the aforementioned "tack" all over.

So the question I'd like to submit to the experts is: Will spraying an initial gloss coat (Such as Tamiya TS-13) prior to decal application solve this problem? It does seem to be the step I missed based on a few things I've read, but my concern is that if there's a chemical reaction taking place that is preventing the matte coat to fully cure, wouldn't the same happen with the gloss coat? Is there a different type of clearcoat that is better suited for this application?

I feel like I'm missing something but I don't know what it is. If anyone has any suggestions, they'd be very welcome! I'd obviously prefer not to have to settle for substandard results but I also don't want to just throw crap against the wall and endlessly experiment. 

Thank you!
Danny

[woody86]

The Tamiya TS products are lacquer which is not compatible with the vinyl rubber. For rubber you need to use acrylic based clear coat like the bottled Tamiya paints or a MR TopCoat spray.

A question for Jim is where is the 94 Penske kit from?

[illeagle10]

Nov 14, 2020 22:19:20 GMT -5 woody86 said:

The Tamiya TS products are lacquer which is not compatible with the vinyl rubber. For rubber you need to use acrylic based clear coat like the bottled Tamiya paints or a MR TopCoat spray.

A question for Jim is where is the 94 Penske kit from?

The 94 Penske is a Jorgensen body, included were a windscreen, undertray and BBS wheels. Bill used the AMT PC-17 to create his PC-23. However, I used the Revell Reynard as a donor kit. The Revell parts work much better than the AMT kit.

indycarmodeling.proboards.com/thread/1530/1994-penske-pc-23-31

Jim

[danny]

Nov 14, 2020 22:19:20 GMT -5 woody86 said:

The Tamiya TS products are lacquer which is not compatible with the vinyl rubber. For rubber you need to use acrylic based clear coat like the bottled Tamiya paints or a MR TopCoat spray.

A question for Jim is where is the 94 Penske kit from?

Well...rats. Guess I need to start over. That does make sense though, and happy to know acrylic is the right stuff to use. Thanks woody!

Danny

[schix5150]

I sand mine with first a course sanding sponge and then gradually to a finer one. Then I clean it with a super fine wipe of acetone to clean them. I mask off the tread and paint the face with Rustoleum flat black for rubber surfaces. Then I decal the tires and usually don’t have to use a setting solution. Once they dry, I clear them with Testors flat clear lacquer. Then I take the tape off and do a final super fine sand on the tread just for a touch up. They come out perfect every time.

Mike

That Rustoleum flat black for rubber works on resin tires also.

[danny]

Nov 16, 2020 19:55:53 GMT -5 schix5150 said:

I sand mine with first a course sanding sponge and then gradually to a finer one. Then I clean it with a super fine wipe of acetone to clean them. I mask off the tread and paint the face with Rustoleum flat black for rubber surfaces. Then I decal the tires and usually don’t have to use a setting solution. Once they dry, I clear them with Testors flat clear lacquer. Then I take the tape off and do a final super fine sand on the tread just for a touch up. They come out perfect every time.

Mike

That Rustoleum flat black for rubber works on resin tires also.

Very helpful! Thanks Mike!