F3000 Italya Reynard 89D B-O-R WIP

[Deleted]

Here is my entry for the Build-O-Rama. Hasesgawa's 1/24 Reynard 89D. Here is a link to my in-progress photos.
picasaweb.google.com/107358279597876766336/124HasegawaItalyaReynard89DF3000?authkey=Gv1sRgCL3h7brA9NC3qwE#

I actually started this about 19 years ago as an out of the box build. I got it back out when one of my local clubs had a "Pink" themed contest in November. I didn't finish it in time, but I am excited about building again. Let me know what you think. I'll post more photos as work progresses.

Martin

5/31/11 Looks like I need to make some repairs to this WIP thread. Lost my photo gallery site so for now I have switched to Picassa Web albums. It will take me a bit to relink all of the photos.

[Deleted]

Tonight I finished polishing out the paint, touched up the paint on the rear wing end panels where I wet sanded through the second paint coat, closed up the backs of the radiators and then got side tracked scratch building a pedal assembly. Here is a link to the most recent photos.
www.dyksterhouse.org/~martin/gallery/album54?page=5
You can click on the pictures to make them bigger and read any description I might have added.

[scalecentral]

Love the dash and the pedal idea is neat. I'll have to try that.
Nic

[Deleted]

Thanks, It was easier than I thought. I'm not sure if the non-slip surface is "accurate" but it looked cool.

[Chris]

Martin, I have recently read a few threads online about fingerprints and other problems with polishing out paint with Novus, I have never used it but I have my concerns. Have you ever had a problem before? JUst wondering...Chris

[Deleted]

This was the first time I can remember having a problem with fingerprints, (other than not letting the paint dry long enough ) but it was also the first time trying it on an acrylic finish (Tamiya and Gunze bottle paints) that I thinned with lacquer thinner. Next time I'm going to stick with same brand thinners and see how that works. Usually I paint with Testors enamels.

[Calvin]

Nice!

[Deleted]

I decided that I needed to clear coat the painted parts before decals, to eliminate the possibility of additional fingerprints. Comparing the end plates, I found that my attempt at color matching was not successful .

Try the color match again. Looks good to me.


Replicas and Miniatures PE hardware, red and yellow ribbon of several widths, Sabelt decals were left on the backing paper with the edges colored red with a Sharpie.


Tomorrow I hope to polish out the re-painted end plates and put a coat of Future on everything.

[Calvin]

Very nice!

[Deleted]

It doesn't feel like I got much done in 4 hours last night. I put a coat of future on the body, and then worked on some coolant lines.

I used 16 gauge bead wire, blue decal film for the hose connector with small strips of bare metal foil for the hose clamps. Heat shield is bare metal foil with knurling from my hobby knife. I removed the molded in lines and added my lines.



I had problems with the bead wire getting marked up when I bent it. Next time I might try styrene rod instead.

[Deleted]

Yesterday I assembled the front wings to the nose. It looks good from a distance. I'm having problems with the paint chipping. Could be that the acrylic paints didn't stick well to the 15 year old primer coat. I've decided that I want to get this done, so I'm not going back to fix the chips (repaint everything) I'll just do a little touch up, or maybe some weathering for an after the race look.

[racerbrown]

really coming along nicely. i love the detail on the engine!
duane

[Deleted]

Next up, decals. The Bridgestone markings started to come apart, so I wasn't able to get the left one exactly where I wanted it and the large N cracked in one spot. I guess I'll need to coat the remaining decals with Microscale Liquid Decal Film before I continue. Not sure If I want to touch up the decal with paint or call them stone chips.

[Chris]

On the problem with the Bead wire getting marked up while bending, you can use a Flexi-file Triple grit sanding board to take off the tool marks and polish to a almost chrome finish, I had the same deal when I bent the Turbo outlet to manifold pipe on my Lotus 56B Offy build.. Just a Tip..Chris

[Calvin]

Looking good!

[Deleted]

OK, here are some more pictures from this weekends progress. I decided that after the problems with the decals I should try out Microscale liquid decal film. It was a little scary at first because it looked like it was soaking the backing paper

But after it dried, it looked normal again.

I used some of the decals on the rear wing and didn't have any problems with them cracking.

After the cooling lines I thought the engine still looked a little bare so I decided to add some of the braided oil lines. I dug out what I had for A/N fitting and braided hoses. All of this stuff was supposed to go on a super detailed NASCAR I was going to build, but I figured I should put it to better use on this kit. All of these parts are 20+ years old.

I started by drilling out the brass hex fittings. I put them in vice after I drilled a .025 hole in the end of my thumb.

For the larger 1.5 in. line I used some old phone wire, a hex fitting and a tapered fitting to match what is on the car.

For the smaller oil lines I used MSC brake line and smaller fittings. My first one didn't go together quite as nicely as I wanted but the second and third ones did.


With a coat of Model Master Aluminum Metalizer and Gunze clear Red and Clear Blue, they came out looking pretty nice.

That's about all for this update. I better get a move on if I'm going to finish by the deadline.

[Calvin]

Wow your really going all out! Looks nice!

[Deleted]

I added the braided lines to the engine, but I'm not entirely happy with how they turned out. The blue is a little dark and the bend are not as sharp as i would like.




After adding the braided lines, I decided that the intake trumpets looked too bare. So I decided to scratch build injectors to go on them. First, I added pieces of .040 styrene rod cut at an angle to create the injector mounts.

Then I used .030 rod and some square stock to create the injectors. The hole near the top is for the fuel line, the square tab is the electronics connector.

I used Photo etched fasteners to create the mounting flanges for the injectors

I drilled holes in the tabs for small electrical wires and added guide pins to the mounting flanges.


Tomorrow I hope to start putting the injectors on the trumpets and install them on the car along with the fuel rail.

[Calvin]

Very cool! I like your heat treatment!

[Deleted]

Well, I'm trying to pick up the pace so i can meet the B-O-R deadline. Yesterday I put the injectors on the intake trumpets, touched up the black paint and added a PE hex head on the top of the injector. I'm going to mount one side to the car and do the fuel lines to the fuel rail before I mount the other side.

After putting them all together I decided that if there is a next time, I'll make the injectors shorter. I also put the decals on the front and rear wing end plates.


and just for laughs, here is a picture of my workbench. Usually when I am this close to the front edge, I'm close to being done. Not this time.

[Calvin]

I think you'll have no trouble meeting the deadline for the BOR.
I cant wait to see this done You've done a lot of nice detail touches to this kit.

[Deleted]

Well I finally overcame my frustrations (parts breaking off, wondering if I am in way over my head) and made some more progress. It helped to create sketches and a list of what I wanted to do next. I only got half of the list it done, but that leaves me a plan for the next modeling session.

Did a test fit of the body on the chassis. Everything still seems to fit.

I added some small discs punched out of .015 sheet plastic to represent the cam covers on the rear of the heads. (and to cover the large hole needed to thread the braided line through)

Main work was on getting the top of the engine together again. First I created a fuel rail from .030 styrene rod and some strips to represent the mounting brackets and added that to the valley between the heads.


Next was grouping the injector wires together. Stripped some insulation off of some phone wire. Ran 2 wires in and only one out. Repeat to group the next 2 wires. Looks like wire wrapping and keeps the bundle size down.

Then I installed the right side Trumpet assembly on the engine.

Then I added Fuel lines between the injectors and fuel rail.

One side done! Had to let the glue dry on some fixes to the other Trumpet assembly, so I called it a night.

[sandysixtysfan]

Super detailing! This is looking great.

Sandy

[illeagle10]

Do you think you'll have it ready to run by the season opener? Getting the pistons and the crankshaft in there might be a little tough! LOL! ;D This is a great build!

Jim

[Deleted]

2/18/11

Tonight I added the injectors for the other side. Good news, everything fit. Bad News, I still need to add 3 fuel lines. That took several hours to cut and fit each of the additional fuel lines between the fuel rail and the matching injector. I don't think I am going to do something like this again any time soon.


After I finished with the fuel lines I added the coolant overflow hose (white) and the oil tank breather hose. They are held together with a twisted strand of wire. I didn't feel like figuring out how to make scale zip ties.

Well, that's it for tonight.

[Calvin]

When its done the detail is well worth the time.

[Deleted]

3/5/11

Well, after an ice storm here in Michigan I didn't have power for 2 days and internet access for a week. I did get some building done on this project. First was a test fit of the nose cone and body to the chassis.


Then I painted the Fuel tank and front bulkhead semi-gloss black. (Tamiya)



Next up was re-creating the large A/N fitting on the side of the gearbox. I didn't like the shape of the previous one. This one is made of styrene rod instead of bent wire and allowed me to create a sharp 90 degree bend like my reference photos showed.


I added the cooling lines to the front of the engine using bent stryene rod. Painted silver with blue decals for the flex joints. This will be mostly hidden, so no hose clamps were added.


I added the rear uprights (hubs), brake rotors and brake lines. and tied the brake lines to the rear suspension with fine wire to try to make it look like zip ties.


I finally received the Crazy modeler Tire markings sheet I had ordered and I discovered that the Bridgestone Potenza decals are not a match for the kit decals. The radius is also too large for these tires. I guess I'm going to go with bare sidewalls on the inside of the tires. Had to then strip the future gloss coat back off.


Having been warned that the white decals in the kit are not very opaque, I put down a layer of Microscale white decal film first on the engine cover.


Cooling and oil lines on the right side are now installed.


Rear Wing Pieces ready for assembly

It was kind of trickey to get this multi piece win assembled. The main wing fits nicely with the pins, but the upper element has a lot of slop in the locating holes. Here's what it looks like assembled. I used magnetic work holding blocks I bought at Harbor Freight company to hold it square while the glue dried.


This is the copy of decal sheet I used for the white decal templates.


First layer of decal on the side pods.

Well that's what I've accomplished in the past two weeks.

Do you folks like lots of pictures?

[Calvin]

Mar 5, 2011 11:46:46 GMT -5 ipms24834 said:

Having been warned that the white decals in the kit are not very opaque, I put down a layer of Microscale white decal film first on the engine cover.

Good idea.
Like Ive said before your doing great!
Plus I love how shinny your pant job is.

Do you folks like lots of pictures?

Heck yes! ;D

[Deleted]

Didn't get as much done the rest of the weekend as I did Friday night. I was able to get a lot of the decals applied. Had problems with small fractures on some of them, but I was able to patch them up.





Any word on an extension on the BOR deadline? Not sure I'll finish by Sunday. Unless I pull an all nighter

[Deleted]

It's been a busy couple of days in the model room. On Tuesday I did another test fit of all the major parts.

I finished with all of the decals and was able to get a coat of future on the body Friday night.

I also spent time finishing the Fuel injection electronics box and prepared a Top Model resin fitting for the fuel line.

Assembled the wheels and tires

And then final assembly started in earnest this morning. first was the body to the chassis

then the valve covers when on. You can also see the Top model fitting and part of the electronics control box in this view.

Finished the spark plug wires

Another test fit for the engine cover

Assembly of the front suspension. I had to cut open the lower A arm mounting points since there was no clearance between the wheel and the hub to assemble the parts according to the instructions. I also mounted the steering rack first since the clips are not at the same angle as the A arms.


I then mounted the rear wheels and tires

Model is now about 95% complete. Just have mirrors, wind screen and some other little fiddly bits to add.






Sure looks like I need to clean my camera lens to get rid of those spots.