Ferrari 312T3 Color Details

[Deleted]

I am starting this model. It will be my first Tamiya after fiddling with old AMT Indy models with various fit challenges. So, I'm looking forward to it. I'm doing Gilles V.

There are lots of pictures of completed models and recent pictures of the car at shows, vintage grands prix, etc. On most of the race photos of Villeneuve's and Reutemann's cars you can't see the brake cooling ducts on inside of the front wheels. The instructions say to paint them desert yellow. But, in the one race photo I found of Villeneuve's car below they appear to be grey with the ends facing the front painted the same color as the car.

Anyone have any other references or information on this? It's likely that they were painted different colors over the life of the car. I know there were three different versions of it.

Thanks,

Beans

[indycals]

I think the red you are seeing is duct tape. The brake duct themselves were neither desert yellow or grey, they were translucent material. If you look at their cars in the late 70's they could appear: Yellow, orange, white, grey, but in all cases, they were pretty scruffed up in appearance. Since Tamiya produced the ducts in solid color plastic the only option was to try to paint it as best as possible to match the appearance. When the 312T3 was produced, Tamiya thought desert yellow was a decent approximation.

[Deleted]

Thanks, Michael. I did see a photo where I thought they looked translucent now that you mention it. I'm not sure if I'll do them in yellow.

It's kind of like the Lotus 29 steering wheel. It was red. But, in all the pictures you see of Gurney's car he has black tape on much of the wheel. Does one paint it red or black. Fun stuff.

Beans a.k.a. Jim in Zionsville, IN

Dec 10, 2010 13:33:20 GMT -5 indycals said:

I think the red you are seeing is duct tape. The brake duct themselves were neither desert yellow or grey, they were translucent material. If you look at their cars in the late 70's they could appear: Yellow, orange, white, grey, but in all cases, they were pretty scruffed up in appearance. Since Tamiya produced the ducts in solid color plastic the only option was to try to paint it as best as possible to match the appearance. When the 312T3 was produced, Tamiya thought desert yellow was a decent approximation.

[kurzheck]

Can't go wrong with Gilles. The brake ducts on Ferraris of the time are raw fibreglass. They often appear a translucent grey/amber colour. The duct openings appear to be taped over in the above photo.

Trevor

[Deleted]

Thanks, Trevor. As I've gotten into modeling and read all the great stuff on this and other forums, I've noticed that certain things with respect to historical accuracy that one person cares about don't bother another modeler and vice versa. When I first saw these ducts they jumped out at me as an odd color. Most people probably wouldn't care.

As I mentioned I am trying to wrap up the Gurney version of the Lotus 29. I've read criticisms about the accuracy of the AMT model nose. It doesn't bother me as much as the thickness of the windshield, which to scale is thick to the point that is distracting to me. I have cut and molded an acetate windshield, borrowing the concept from the Monogram Kurtis Kraft. I think it will look much better if I can get it to work.

As for the 312T3 ducts, I'm leaning towards a light grey with a hint of beige just because that's how it looks to my eyes in the best reference photo I have. I may also cover them with some removable red tape now. ;-)

Jim

[indycals]

Dec 10, 2010 15:24:31 GMT -5 @feedembeans said:

TAs for the 312T3 ducts, I'm leaning towards a light grey with a hint of beige just because that's how it looks to my eyes in the best reference photo I have. I may also cover them with some removable red tape now. ;-)

I think that is an excellent way to go.

[Patrick]

Feedembeans,

Check out Michael's build of his T3. It's excellent and he did a perfect job on the brake ducts!

Patrick

[herk56]

I've always thought the best way to represent these would be if someone cast them in clear resin tinted amber. Wouldn't have to be perfect!

Brian

[indydog]

Here's a pic of my 312T2. I chose a bit different color then Michael, mine is a 50/50 mix of clear red and orange.

[Deleted]

Thanks, guys. You all are far more talented than me. I did the rears to match the photo, so far without the tape. This model goes together soooo much easier than the old Indy models. I'm wrapping up the engine and it looks great - more a function of the design of the model than my skills. I did manage to break a couple things so far, nothing that couldn't be corrected.

The next challenge is masking the white areas on the bodywork. My problem will be ensuring I don't get too much paint on the car. I sprayed some white last night. It looks a little pink and probably needs another coat.

Thanks again,

Beans

[indycals]

Dec 13, 2010 7:45:17 GMT -5 @feedembeans said:

The next challenge is masking the white areas on the bodywork. My problem will be ensuring I don't get too much paint on the car. I sprayed some white last night. It looks a little pink and probably needs another coat.

Stop right there.

There's two reasons for this: First, you didn't use any primer. In which case more coats may not help depending on what paint you use.d

Second. You used tamiya paints and painted white over white primer over red plastic. For some reason this combination results in a slightly pink hue. No matter how solid the primer is and no matter how many coats of white you use, this will not go away. My solution is to paint a coat of TS30 silver first, then white primer then gloss white.

[Deleted]

Ahhh...I remember you mentioning the silver base coat trick in another discussion. I assume it can be a pretty light coat. It wasn't dry when I last saw it. But, I'm sure it will be pink.

I also noticed on your and other models that you painted the exhaust ends white instead of aluminum as noted in the instructions. Upon further review of reference photos that makes sense also.

Thanks,

Beans

[Deleted]

More of a general question for this era of F1 cars. I'm still working the 312T3 and received the P34 six-wheeler as a gift. Is Tamiya set A as good a choice as any for seat belts?

Jim