Aftermarket Decal Question

[stonecold44]

I need a little help on this one, and I normally would ask the manufacturer but I'd rather lean on everyone's experience here.

When using Indycals decals, is it necessary to use a decal solution and if so, what is the advantage? I assume these are water-slides so is that enough to hold the decals before clear-coating?

I am working on the 2 Mario Andretti Lolas from 1987 & 1988 and can't wait to post my first pictures.

[drdave]

Depends, If the surface is fairly flat you can move it into place with water only and press it into place with a damp cloth and you should have no problems. If the surface has lots of curves use something like Microset, Microsol sometimes is a little "hot".

Michael's decals are excellent! very thin with good color registration.

[russd]

I agree, Indycals decals are the best. I will add that these decals are thin. Use a little care when transfering them from the paper to the car.

[herk56]

Yes, Indycals are great! You can use Solvaset with them w/o problems but be careful and maybe try it diluted a little with water until you get a feel for it. Many aftermarket decals conform very well without any solution. Good luck, can't wait to see your pics!

Brian

[mrindy77]

I always coat Indycals decals with a coat of Microscale Liquid Decal film before I remove them from the paper. I believe he may already do it but it can't hurt to add another coat for protection. It dries so thin you could multiple coats on and you would see virtually no build up when placed on the car. ALPS decals by nature are somewhat fragile and coating them with liquid decal film ensure they will not be damaged.

[stonecold44]

Guys, thanks for the suggestions. I've never used decal solution so from what I can gather here, I should:
1) brush the solution on the decal before cutting
2) let it dry or trim it while it's wet?
3) brush on another coat of solution after it has been applied?

[russd]

Jun 8, 2008 22:02:23 GMT -5 stonecold44 said:

Guys, thanks for the suggestions. I've never used decal solution so from what I can gather here, I should:
1) brush the solution on the decal before cutting
2) let it dry or trim it while it's wet?
3) brush on another coat of solution after it has been applied?

Just to be absolutly clear, you brush on MICROSCALE DECAL FILM before you cut the decals and let it dry. I've never used this, but it sounds like a really good idea to me. This will help hold the decals together during the transfer. Then after the decals are in position on the car, you brush on MICROSET MICROSOL to "melt" the decal onto the surface. This stuff is great! Especially on really thick decals (like the Revell of Germany kits). Its also usefull for getting old decals off a car as well.

[stonecold44]

Russ, thanks for the suggestions. I just have to find a store that sells those items and I'm in business.

[mrindy77]

if you can't find those items let me know I can pick them up at my local hobby store...they are always in stock.
Microscale decal film is about $2.50 and the Microset is about the same price.
there is also a decal seting solution called Solvaset...it is a bit more aggressive than Microset in my opinion. Once either is applied you must not "monkey" around with the decal as this stuff actually softens it and if you try and move them around the decals can become distorted.

[Deleted]

I have been usng Walther's Solvaset for about 40 years. It is by far the best decal solvent on the market. It was developed to apply model RR decals over the big rivets and such on box cars and all. I have used Microsol (never messed with Microset) and the Microsol doesn't do much for me as far as getting a decal to snuggle down. After the decal is applied, and set in place, you brush on the Solvaset and walk away. The decal might wrinkle up worse than a 100 year old face, but when it dries, it will be perfect. JUST DON"T TOUCH IT! LOL!! Next best is Mr. Mark's Softener from Gunze Sangyo, if you can find it.

Microscale Decal Film is great, but also very, very thin. When we print our decals on the ALPS, we use Testors LACQUER GlossCote #1261. It says lacquer but it is a synthetic and will not eat a decal, or even Testors enamels. The Enamel Gloss WILL YELLOW over time.

One important thing to remember is that you need to get the surface as smooth as possible before applying the decals to minimize the risk of the decals *silvering*.

Bill <><