Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Dec 9, 2009 2:52:48 GMT -5
Hi All,
I am really wanting to make my Rislone Eagle a little more *special* than one of my normal builds. I want to add plumbing, wiring, and other details (fairly *Super Detailed*) to this one.
Where do I start on seeing EXACTLY what/where things go, etc., so that I can do this? So that no one misunderstands, I am asking where to *start*. I have no reference books on this period, nor good pictures that show anything, so I am needing a place to start from.
Thanks for your help, Mongo
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Dec 9, 2009 10:37:56 GMT -5
Mongo,
A good place to start, would be as any good place, try a magazine that was printed at the time called "Racing Pictorials." A great place for color photos of the cars taken during thier time. Then there is Dave Friedman's book,"Indidnapolis Racing Memorioes, 1961-1969," It's not bad for using most of Bob Tronolone's photos.
Best to you!
Russ
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drdave
Front Runner
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Post by drdave on Dec 9, 2009 12:08:09 GMT -5
Maybe these will help. Dr Dave
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Dec 10, 2009 14:06:31 GMT -5
Thanks, guys.
Dave, you haven't relied to my PM about that kit. Check that out, please, and let me know.
Thanks! Bill <><
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Post by Calvin on Dec 10, 2009 14:44:23 GMT -5
Those are some good pics. Has anyone mastered the art of replicating the rivets on the body before?
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Post by indycals on Dec 10, 2009 14:53:09 GMT -5
Those are some good pics. Has anyone mastered the art of replicating the rivets on the body before? In this case they're molded into the kit.
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Post by Calvin on Dec 10, 2009 14:55:00 GMT -5
Those are some good pics. Has anyone mastered the art of replicating the rivets on the body before? In this case they're molded into the kit. Wow didn't know.....there is another reason I should get that kit
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Post by indycals on Dec 10, 2009 15:09:31 GMT -5
If you can't get the Rislone kit, the Olsonite Eagle kit works too - you'll just have to score an offy from another kit, but the body work for the Rislone car (engine cover) is in the Olsonite kit. One thing about the kit is that the rear wheels sit too far out - you need to bring them in. I don't remember if I brought them in 1/4" total or 1/4" on each side.
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Post by 1961redlegs on Dec 10, 2009 19:23:01 GMT -5
Indycals,
How did you go about bringing the rear wheels in? Thank you in advance for any information.
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Post by 2lapsdown on Dec 10, 2009 19:47:03 GMT -5
Michael, this is choice information. I've just begun to work on my 68 Eagle, thanks.
John
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Post by indycals on Dec 11, 2009 0:30:54 GMT -5
Indycals, How did you go about bringing the rear wheels in? Thank you in advance for any information. Beats me, that was at least 10 years ago. Sorry I can't be of more help.
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Post by 2lapsdown on Dec 11, 2009 16:26:37 GMT -5
I've been looking over my Rislone kit trying to figure out that narrowing issue. It looks like you can get about 1/8 of an inch on both sides by modifying the rear uprights. Shaving off the "race" in step 6 and filing down the brake pad might do it. That would give you about a 1/4 inch total. The only thing that might make this un-doable would be the wheel hitting the suspension parts. I don't see any easy way to do this if this idea doesn't work.
John
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Post by lance on Dec 11, 2009 18:24:54 GMT -5
The front tires need to come in as well, both the front and rear track are to wide on this kit. I thought about narrowing mine but decided against it . Getting the paint right and using after market decals does wonders for this kit, most builders do not use a dark enough blue for this car. The best advice I can give if you wish to narrow the track is to get Bob's drawing of this car and scale it to 1/25th , then decide if you want to scratch build the front and rear suspensions or modify the kit parts, either way you will have a big job ahead of you. In looking at the kit , the front looks like it would be the least difficult to modify by working with the the front hub and brakes to allow the tire-wheel assembly to slide on farther than the kit allows ( keep in mind I have not tried this yet !) The same idea could be tried on the back but I do not no if it would allow for enough room as I have not put the car onto the drawings or measured anything yet. If you do choose to shorten the upper or lower connecting arms, or change their mounting points , keep in mind this will effect the rear drive shafts, shocks and sway bar. Lance
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Post by indycals on Dec 11, 2009 19:41:53 GMT -5
I've been looking over my Rislone kit trying to figure out that narrowing issue. It looks like you can get about 1/8 of an inch on both sides by modifying the rear uprights. Shaving off the "race" in step 6 and filing down the brake pad might do it. That would give you about a 1/4 inch total. The only thing that might make this un-doable would be the wheel hitting the suspension parts. I don't see any easy way to do this if this idea doesn't work. John That sounds like about what might be that I did. IIRC there are two hooks for pins on the hub. I think I removed those hooks and set the hub directly on the lower suspension piece. The wheel does hit the suspension part on mine, but it's still an improvement.
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Post by 1961redlegs on Dec 12, 2009 16:04:40 GMT -5
Thanks for the clarification!
So if I grind down the "race" and brake pads on the rear, that should make the difference and in the front maybe do something similar? I will certainly try this and see if I can get those wheels in a little closer. I am about to start it after I finish my current project.
A couple more questions about this car.
What color would you recommend for the engine, I was considering aluminum, is that a good choice?
This is my first Indianapolis racer and the instructions I have say to tape the car together from the inside and paint and decal the car first, is that what the rest of you have done with this car? I am used to painting and decalling last with my NASCAR stockers.
Thank you again for any information you may be able to give.
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Post by 2lapsdown on Dec 12, 2009 16:48:13 GMT -5
Let me know how the narrowing goes, it seems you'll get to that point before I will. As for the engine block, I've got mine painted aluminum with the gear box a darker metallic grey. I'm with you on waiting to paint and decal until near the end.
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Post by clm1545 on Dec 12, 2009 17:06:00 GMT -5
Oldcalhoun did a writeup on this kit for MRRN many years ago. He said not to paint the body first. He also said that the Offy engine is aluminum color. Good Luck
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Post by indycals on Dec 12, 2009 19:11:07 GMT -5
Not sure why you wouldn't paint the body first?
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Post by 1961redlegs on Dec 12, 2009 19:17:47 GMT -5
My big concern with painting and decalling first is just the extra handling the body would go through during the construction process, wearing off paint and decals.
The instructions in the kit led me to believe that the first step in the process was to paint and decal the body, that was sorta counterintuitive to me.
Thanks to everyone for the information and assistance, as I said I am new to Indy cars and am still trying to get used to the building nuances of these cars.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Dec 12, 2009 21:42:17 GMT -5
Well....
When I built mine, I didn't paint the body first. I went right to the engine construction first and painted the chassis. Which car are you building? The Rislone Special or the Olsonite Special? That will determine what you do next.
Best to you!
Russ
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Post by indycals on Dec 12, 2009 21:46:41 GMT -5
I don't remember the sequence of building, but I always paint the body before I start adding anything to it. I always decal last. Since I don't clearcoat it's not a problem to decal last.
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Post by clm1545 on Dec 12, 2009 22:26:11 GMT -5
It is a multi piece body, and if you end up with any gaps to fill after assembly the paint job is junk.
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Post by 1961redlegs on Dec 12, 2009 23:13:42 GMT -5
OldCalhoun,
I am building the Rislone Special. Where do I go after the chassis.
I hope I am not asking too many questions or annoying you guys!
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Post by Calvin on Dec 13, 2009 0:51:23 GMT -5
I hope I am not asking too many questions or annoying you guys! Nope, this is what this place is for.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Dec 13, 2009 13:23:25 GMT -5
Old Calhoun, I am building the Rosaline Special. Where do I go after the chassis. I hope I am not asking too many questions or annoying you guys! Heck no...this is why I came to this forum. s knowledge if you don't share it? I had to go back and re-read what I wrote in Motor Racing Replica News in August of 1996. Also, when I was looking through my "old" magazines I fund I still had my issue of "Car Modeler from November of 1992 where a cat named Stephen Miller did a build up on, "The Toilet Seat Eagle", ( A very poor attempt at humor....Ozzie Olsen made bathroom fixtures and of course, one was toilet seats.) This is one of the reasons I never subscribed to Car "Mangler" Magazine. The guy has some great drawings on how to do the wiring and plumbing for Gurney's Eagle, although he has a few mistakes on painting. I was lucky and got the word straight from the source. (Mr. Gurney) Well, now to the useful information on your build 61Redlegs. If you haven't noticed through my "WIP OldCalhoun" build, I only use the kit instructions as a guide-line. I go off the instruction sheet with most of my builds, soon, you will too. It's called "thinking outside of the box" building. Once you learn some tricks of the trade, you'll find yourself reading the instruction sheet and saying to yourself, "Was this guy on crack when he wrote this!?!?!" This method really helps when working on vac-forms and resin models too.) You already know of Replica and Miniatures of Maryland so I won't waste you time with that bit of news. Here's what I wrote in 1996.... "Take your time and study the instruction sheet. A few words of cation. If you follow the instruction sheet you're screwed, if you don't follow the instruction sheet you're really screwed! Here come a few pointers on this kit that will help fellow builders and hopefully will make It easier for you. First, don't paint the body pieces first like the instructions sheet tells you. This is a sure kiss of death. Move to step one, which is the engine. (My note from 2009...Hume's engine was Ford Blue, Gurney's Westlake was gun metal, The Offy was Aluminum.) Foremost and first, you'll want to strip all the chrome engine parts of the lousy chrome.. Second, you'll want to assemble the tires. (Get the set from Replica and Miniatures of Maryland....part No#. T-40.) Next, this is where I made my mistake the first time...I panted the chassis silver, then I glued the fuel fillers into the sides of the body, you'll have to trim them down to make them fit. I next glued the top body panel on the chassis, this will mean you'll late have to fit the gas and brake peddle Assembly in by fishing into the body as well as the dash, steering wheel and seat in later. (Take your time and think of the order you want to place these parts into the car. You can really cause a mess here if you don't take your time!!!) Then glue the side panels on and this will allow you to fill any gaps the body may have. The using white glue, place the nose on the body and you're ready to paint. I'd hold off on decaling until after you have the whole car pretty much assembled." Hope this helps you with your 68 Rislone Special. By the way, I used Indycals decals for this car if you want it to look the best! Best to you! Russ
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Post by 1961redlegs on Dec 15, 2009 19:29:30 GMT -5
Thank you for the information OldCalhoun! I am in the process of getting the Rislone Special started and I'm going to follow your guidance closely.
I have some of the Rislone Special decals from Indycals, they are really really nice and I look forward to working with them!
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