|
Post by indydog on Oct 9, 2009 15:44:00 GMT -5
Since Mike mentioned the new Hasegawa 312T2 in his 1/20 Williams FW14B thread, I thought you all might like a peek at my progress of the 312T2 build. The engine: Chassis progress: I've got as far as starting to apply paint to the body, but no pics of that yet.
|
|
|
Post by indycals on Oct 9, 2009 15:59:57 GMT -5
Looking good! I haven't started mine yet - will probably wait until I have the 312T and build them both at once. Look forward to seeing more progess!
|
|
|
Post by indydog on Oct 10, 2009 1:55:59 GMT -5
Well, the chassis is ready for the body panels: A close up of the cockpit: The detail on the kit is quite nice, I just wish Hasegawa would include wiring and hoses like Tamiya does. (not that you could see either on the 312T2)
|
|
|
Post by indycals on Oct 10, 2009 2:03:12 GMT -5
Ah... doing the Japanese GP version I see.
|
|
|
Post by indydog on Oct 10, 2009 8:57:06 GMT -5
Ah... doing the Japanese GP version I see. The tires gave it away didn't they?
|
|
|
Post by Calvin on Oct 10, 2009 11:36:49 GMT -5
I see one problem.............It looks to good
|
|
|
Post by indydog on Oct 22, 2009 14:21:15 GMT -5
Disaster strikes during the painting phase!!! I painted the cowl white first rather then use the white decals. I bought a can of Tamiya TS-49, masked off the areas to stay white and applied it over the MM white. It wrinked and peeled like my grandma with a sunburn! OMG! I didn't know that Tamiya paints are laquers and are not compatable with MM paints! I have already striped the red paint and have started the repaint with MM bright red. If it ain't the right color.... oh well.
|
|
|
Post by indycals on Oct 22, 2009 14:24:34 GMT -5
Ouch!!! MM Bright red should work. I never mix paint brands - even if they are 'supposedly' compatible types of paint, differences in formulation can cause issues. What did you use to strip the tamiya paint?
|
|
|
Post by indydog on Oct 22, 2009 15:40:38 GMT -5
The center section is taped off to cover the white, so Easy-Off was out of the question. So after some thought...
As you can guess, the Tamiya paint didn't stick to well. So I went down and got some laquer thinner and removed what I could. Then I sanded off what was left as best I could. Not the best solution, but we'll see how it comes out. I suppose I should have just used Easy-Off and repainted completely, but oh well.
If you ever decide to do decals for this car (hint, hint) I will probably strip it proper and redo it. Since this is a build for a website, time was critical.
|
|
|
Post by professor on Oct 22, 2009 15:51:53 GMT -5
Rule of thumb: enamals over lacquer but never lacquer over enamals.
DON'T use lacquer thinner on styrene!!!
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Oct 22, 2009 16:18:39 GMT -5
Rule of thumb: enamals over lacquer but never lacquer over enamals. DON'T use lacquer thinner on styrene!!! Good advice. I will add an additional warning: Even some enamels like Krylon tend to run hot so watch them as well. Even their Fusion "safe on plastic without primer" line is hot and will etch plastic. I like to test paint on a piece of sprue or part I won't use to be safe. G
|
|
|
Post by indydog on Oct 22, 2009 22:51:47 GMT -5
Rule of thumb: enamals over lacquer but never lacquer over enamals. DON'T use lacquer thinner on styrene!!! Well, I used the thinner on a rag and worked a small area at a time. lather, rinse, repeat... It didn't take all the paint off, but with the sanding I got 80/90% of it. I'll post when I get it finished.
|
|
|
Post by indydog on Oct 26, 2009 17:11:07 GMT -5
Well, for better or worse, it's done. After the painting fiasco, the finish is still a bit rough in some places, but not too bad. A note for Mike here, the white of the decals is translucent. I suppose one could paint a white area under the number, but what about all the stripes?
|
|
|
Post by Calvin on Oct 26, 2009 20:09:46 GMT -5
After the painting fiasco Typical for my builds.... But It looks like you pulled through. Good job hanging in there and finishing it.... and nice job on the detail.
|
|
|
Post by indycals on Oct 27, 2009 13:04:25 GMT -5
Wow, those really are translucent. The problem is... no matter how opaque I make mine, they are never truly 100% opaque. Even 99% will still show a difference where the white paint meets the red on the number area on the engine cover. That part should be painted. Even so, seeing just how translucent the kit decals are might be the motivation I need to do that sheet. I have the kit and I think the decals look so good I didn't even see a point in doing them, but now I do. I'll definitely keep this sheet in mind for an upcoming project. Well, for better or worse, it's done. After the painting fiasco, the finish is still a bit rough in some places, but not too bad. A note for Mike here, the white of the decals is translucent. I suppose one could paint a white area under the number, but what about all the stripes?
|
|
|
Post by indydog on Oct 27, 2009 17:50:20 GMT -5
The problem is... no matter how opaque I make mine, they are never truly 100% opaque. I have the kit and I think the decals look so good I didn't even see a point in doing them, but now I do. I'll definitely keep this sheet in mind for an upcoming project. Maybe you could include a plain white cowl number so it could be put under the actual number decal. I would also suggest doing the white stripes in sections, they are a pain to put on in one piece. If you do decide to do a set, I'll take one. Then I'll strip the kit proper and redo it.
|
|
|
Post by indycals on Nov 11, 2009 12:13:02 GMT -5
I have the 312T2 sheet in the works. Regarding the stripe sections - I see what you mean, I did a test fit and yes, they are best done in small sections. But I will leave that up to the individual builder to cut them apart to their liking. I'm also leaving a gap in the red and green stripes for the number shield - it can still be applied as one piece, but there will be no red and green stripe bleeding through the white shield. I'm also considering just printing the white for the bottom half of the shield that would go over the red paint. Any thoughts on that?
|
|
|
Post by indydog on Nov 11, 2009 13:43:54 GMT -5
Sounds good Mike. I think a white underlay for the number would work ok. Let me know when they are ready and I'll buy a set.
|
|
|
Post by indycals on Nov 12, 2009 2:17:39 GMT -5
I ended up doing the shields so that the bottom half that goes over the red has extra layers of white than the top part - when you see it on the sheet this will be clearly visible. This should help even things out when the top half is applied over white paint and the bottom over red.
|
|
|
Post by indycals on Nov 13, 2009 1:50:22 GMT -5
Decals are now available: www.indycals.net/Decals/76Ferrari312T2.htmlNote, I did make one change from the picture - the contingency sponsors are now printed on the white area that goes in the sidepods - a last minute after thought.
|
|
|
Post by Patrick on Nov 14, 2009 12:16:57 GMT -5
Mike,
Thanks for doing them in 1/24. I have a 312T Tilt kit that I can now proceed on to a T2!
Grazie Mille, Patrick
|
|