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Post by indydog on Sept 29, 2009 20:09:42 GMT -5
Ok guys, I've started my HoF Museum build and I got a couple questions. 1. The car in the museum has black valve covers on the Offy. Did the car have black valve covers back in 72? 2. The Jorgensen M16 conversion includes a new intake manifold, but does not include a new turbo to manifold pipe. What's the best way to scratch a new intake pipe?  3. Anyone know what the circled dohicky is? It's not in the kit, but it's prominent and I have no idea how to add it. |
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Post by professor on Sept 29, 2009 21:34:25 GMT -5
I believe it is an oil tank.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 29, 2009 22:21:10 GMT -5
Mark,
I went to the best authority I know about Mark Donohue and his car, Donohue's biggest fan I know. I mean this guy even has one of Donohue's Drivers Flame Proof U*nderwear.....He's a nut. I also went and check the video tape...when all else fails...
Yes the valve covers on race day were indeed, black.
Also....send me your address on a PM, and I can help you with the engine exhaust for the McLaren.
According to Doug the Nut....that thing you circled is an external, extra small oil tank. I'm waiting to hear from Bob Clidinst, but that looks like what it is to me also. I'll check my pictures I have of that engine as well. Hope this helped.
Best to you
Russ
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Post by indydog on Sept 29, 2009 23:03:56 GMT -5
Thanks guys. Black valve covers it is... Russ, any idea how this tank is mounted? Can you e-mail me any pics of the engine you may have. Plumbing layout would be great. Thanks for the offer but it's the turbo to intake pipe that I need to make. (that big chrome tube in the pic) Got the exhaust handled. I think I need to go back to the museum and bribe someone to let me over the rope.  |
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Post by herk56 on Sept 30, 2009 6:29:53 GMT -5
Try solder of the proper diameter, easy to bend and glue. Try to find solid-core, no acid or resin to worry about leaking out. Hope this helps!
Brian
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Post by indy on Sept 30, 2009 9:00:06 GMT -5
Try solder of the proper diameter, easy to bend and glue. Try to find solid-core, no acid or resin to worry about leaking out. Hope this helps! Brian Doesn't some solder have lead, too? Jordan |
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Post by herk56 on Sept 30, 2009 10:09:59 GMT -5
Not much any more, that's why it doesn't solder as well!! Even if it does, it's no more dangerous than some of the white-metal parts we've all used over the years, just wash your hands when you're done. Once it's on the model it wil never be touched again anyway.
Brian
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Post by indydog on Sept 30, 2009 17:33:49 GMT -5
Try solder of the proper diameter, easy to bend and glue. Try to find solid-core, no acid or resin to worry about leaking out. Hope this helps! Brian That's a great idea, thanks Brian! |
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Post by Calvin on Nov 10, 2009 0:52:46 GMT -5
Anything new on the M16 lately?
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Post by SWT500 on Nov 10, 2009 8:10:41 GMT -5
I think the item you are inquiring about is an oil cooler contained in an aero friendly housing, similar to the one on the left rear of it's contemporary, the Eagle.
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Post by indydog on Nov 10, 2009 16:12:36 GMT -5
Anything new on the M16 lately? I've shelved the M16 while I wait on Bill J to send me the updated cowl and windscreen. I think I may just say the hell with it and use the cowl and windscreen I already have. |
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Post by Calvin on Nov 10, 2009 16:20:36 GMT -5
Anything new on the M16 lately? I think I may just say the hell with it and use the cowl and windscreen I already have. I would too |
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Post by Deleted on Nov 16, 2009 23:16:34 GMT -5
for the record, Mark requested, paid for and received the Mclaren tub. The cowl and windscreen was NEVER part of the original transaction. I offered the the new windscreen cowling at no charge after he sent $5 for the tub.....
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Post by indydog on Nov 17, 2009 2:16:39 GMT -5
for the record, Mark requested, paid for and received the Mclaren tub. The cowl and windscreen was NEVER part of the original transaction. I offered the the new windscreen cowling at no charge after he sent $5 for the tub..... Bill, I realize that you've had a rough past few months and you have my condolences. However, below you will find a snip of the first e-mail you sent me in reguards to the M16 tub: "Subject: RE: McLaren M16 kit
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 2009 12:36:58 -0400
-how old is your conversion? ill give you the updated cowl/windscreen and tub for $5- thats to cover shipping..."Please note the date. I sent a copy of this e-mail to you with my payment so you'd know what it was for. I take offence at being called a liar. |
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Post by indy on Nov 17, 2009 3:22:37 GMT -5
Alright you two, cool it down. Both of you are reading between the lines here. Let's not let this snowball into a problem.
Bill, thanks for making this update for us - this is a cool car and a significant Indy winner. I hope you continue to find inspiration and that your business continues to thrive.
Mark, I hope your build keeps pushing on. This is a beautiful IndyCar to model and your attention to detail in research is impressive so stick with it ;D
Jordan
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Post by indydog on Jan 9, 2010 1:29:48 GMT -5
Ok, work continues... but I have a couple questions for anyone who has built the Jorgensen conversion.
Did you mount the kit bulkhead to the resin tub, and if not, how did you locate the engine and track bars?
How the hell did you mount the front suspension? Part of the mountings are cast into the kit chassis and I can't quite figure it out.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 9, 2010 14:28:35 GMT -5
Hey Mark!!!!
Glad to see you are still with us! Okay, now know I'm speaking from a position of complete ignorance her...I have never built one of Bill's McLaren Conversion Kits, but I have built his Eagle Kits many times so the advice I'm going to give you may apply...so here it is, disclaimer delivered.
Now to answer your first question is I never mounted the bulk head to the body....I mounted the bulkhead to the engine than glued it onto the body, making sure the engine and most importantly the rear suspension lines up. I use metal piano wire to make the suspension bars, cut to length.
As for the front suspension. you have to cut the upper "A" arms from the kit body and mount them using brass pins you make and drill the placement into the body...but be sure the front suspension lines up well before gluing.
If you need help making the engine more accurate, give me a call.....
Hope this helps! Best to you!
Russ
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Post by indydog on Mar 17, 2010 14:43:55 GMT -5
Ok, this build is seriously pissing me off! I'm behind schedule as it is... I dropped the damn thing while shooting the primer and cracked a seam at the nose, fixed that. Then I dropped it again while shooting the blue and broke the nose OFF! Late or not, I'm gonna finish this bastard.  |
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Post by Deleted on Mar 17, 2010 15:22:23 GMT -5
Oh Mark,
I do know exactly how you feel. If you didn't follow my "Old Calhoun" build the past few months on this forum.....That was how I felt!!! I broke the nose off that sucker too!...I ended up painting it 4 times! When we meet, we have to go to a local bar and buy each other a good, stiff drink!!! Round one is on me!
Best to you and good luck the rest of the way!
Russ
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Post by Patrick on Mar 28, 2010 10:39:42 GMT -5
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Post by indydog on Mar 28, 2010 14:25:24 GMT -5
Interesting link Patrick, thanks.
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Post by scalecentral on Mar 28, 2010 15:34:52 GMT -5
Thanks for the link Patrick. It even has a pic of Donohue's 1972 USAC Phoenix M16 which seems to conclude that that is the 74 Hurtubise entry. Lots of Donohue pics I didn't have.
Nic
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