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Post by hurtubise56 on Nov 27, 2023 13:40:14 GMT -5
Hey, just wondering if anyone has run into this problem. Painted a body with Tamiya TS- 21 Gold. 2 or 3 coats, came out pretty good. Waited a few days (too many) to clear coat, as a couple of spots had stained or darkened from handling, nothing that the decals wouldn't cover. Sprayed a couple coats of Tamiya clear, waited a week or so and applied some decals. Got sidetracked on other things and when I went back to it, maybe 2 weeks later, in all the decals that had areas of clear carrier film, the clear film or paint underneath had darkened dramatically, to the point that I am going to strip it and start over. Not sure yet if its the paint or the decal film that's the problem. Will try to strip just the decals and see. Any ideas on how to avoid this, other than using a color other than gold? Will update when I get to the stripping process.
TIA for any ideas/suggestions - Brian
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Post by Calvin on Nov 27, 2023 14:09:27 GMT -5
Hey, just wondering if anyone has run into this problem. Painted a body with Tamiya TS- 21 Gold. 2 or 3 coats, came out pretty good. Waited a few days (too many) to clear coat, as a couple of spots had stained or darkened from handling, nothing that the decals wouldn't cover. Sprayed a couple coats of Tamiya clear, waited a week or so and applied some decals. Got sidetracked on other things and when I went back to it, maybe 2 weeks later, in all the decals that had areas of clear carrier film, the clear film or paint underneath had darkened dramatically, to the point that I am going to strip it and start over. Not sure yet if its the paint or the decal film that's the problem. Will try to strip just the decals and see. Any ideas on how to avoid this, other than using a color other than gold? Will update when I get to the stripping process. TIA for any ideas/suggestions - Brian YES! Been down this road before. Not necessarily like your story but That's why I clear before applying decals on a gold or silver metallic surface as the clear always pulls up the flakes and moves them around. Basically, silly stuff happens when dealing with these combinations. Tamiya Clear is just flatout aggressive and you gotta be careful with it. |
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Post by hurtubise56 on Nov 27, 2023 14:38:27 GMT -5
Thanks for the reply, Calvin, but I DID clear BEFORE the decals. If the problem hadn't cropped up, I would have finished the decals and then sealed them down with a coat of Future. The few minor problems I've had with Future over decals worry me far less than the horror stories I keep reading about Tamiya clear over decals. Never had the courage to even try that! I'll try to strip the decals tomorrow and see if the gold or the decals are where the discoloration is.
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Post by Chris on Nov 27, 2023 19:30:53 GMT -5
This sounds more like an Oil problem from your hand. forehead etc. but it will cause a concentration of metal flake in spots or un metallic paint that appears darker due to no light refraction.. Just saying .... gotta make sure you dont wipe your nose or forehead unconsciously or not while handling the pre-paint body... Chris
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Post by hurtubise56 on Nov 27, 2023 19:47:01 GMT -5
Chris, yes, oil may have caused the dark spots in the gold before the clear was on, but how do you explain the decals that had the clear carrier darken, JUST the clear carrier, in areas where the gold was perfect AND coated with clear? I'll take some pics of what I've got before I start stripping things.
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Post by hurtubise56 on Nov 28, 2023 14:29:36 GMT -5
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Post by Calvin on Nov 28, 2023 14:41:14 GMT -5
That's very unfortunate, Brian. 😥 This is rather odd, IMO
I'm not even going to guess.
When it comes to clear, when in doubt use Testors lacquer clear as it's way safer. Takes longer to dry, but it gets the job done safer
I prefer Tamiya clear as it's tough stuff, but if I have the slightest hesitant feeling about unknown decals or paint, I use Testors lacquer clear.
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Post by hurtubise56 on Nov 28, 2023 14:50:06 GMT -5
Testors is what I've always used, but since I had a can of Tamiya clear, and it was going UNDER the decals, I didn't see any reason not to use it. Oh well, live and learn. I'm hoping that the decals strip easily and that the discoloration is in the carrier film, not the paint. This was supposed to be a quick, OOB build!
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Post by Calvin on Nov 28, 2023 15:22:23 GMT -5
AHRA use to run at Spokane raceway in the 70s and 80s. It was quite the event back then.
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Post by arcticwolf on Nov 28, 2023 15:29:09 GMT -5
Testors is what I've always used, but since I had a can of Tamiya clear, and it was going UNDER the decals, I didn't see any reason not to use it. Oh well, live and learn. I'm hoping that the decals strip easily and that the discoloration is in the carrier film, not the paint. This was supposed to be a quick, OOB build! Having it under the decals shouldn't have caused any problems. TS 13 is very hot, it certainly can melt decals if you're not really careful, but I've never had it discolour anything - yet.
I like Testors clear myself, but I can't buy it any more.  |
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Post by hurtubise56 on Nov 29, 2023 9:37:42 GMT -5
Well, I give up! These decals are welded to the paint! Soaked in VERY hot water with a little dish detergent for several hours, no loosening. Tried full strength Solva-set, no softening or loosening. I did scrape some off with a razor scraper. Some of the curls of clear decal film looked pretty clear to me, but some looked dark. The paint seems discolored just on the surface, so is it the decal glue, decal film, or the paint? Who knows, into the stripping bath for a total re-paint. So much for a quick, easy build!
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Post by Calvin on Nov 29, 2023 13:20:44 GMT -5
Sorry to hear this. It's unfortunate how the problems keep snowballing. 😥
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