Post by drums01 on Apr 27, 2022 17:45:46 GMT -5
OK, up front I did not build it from scratch, rather it was a previously assembled die cast from ACME in 1/18. Usually, these die cast go for a pretty penny, but because of its condition, I was able to get it for a very reasonable price. The first thing that peaked my interest was the chopped top and salt flats streamliner looks.
The condition you say?, well the trunk or rear cover was sprung and did not fit; the door latches did not work and the right side door was glued closed (?); There were several nicks and scratches in both the white and red; the central fuel line was laying as a spare part along with the right door latch and cover; and a few other issues.
What did I do to the car?
- drilled the alignment pin holes for the rear trunk cover for a better fit
- filed the edges of the trunk cover and removed burrs around the pins
- used a wood dowel to correct the radius of the trunk cover to match the arc of the body
- reattached the main fuel line and enhanced it with additional details
- buy going through the driver door I was able to de-bond the passenger door
- repaired the right door latch and reassembled the door handle and inside cover
- laid down and glued the fabric seatbelts for realism
- detail painted several engine components
- touched up the nicks using Model Master paints (Brilliant Gloss White and Gloss Guards Red)
- polished and waxed entire car body
- several other things I cannot remember (?)
If you do not know the history of the real car, it is a worthwhile read. Here is my repaired ACME 1934 Ford So Cal Speed Shop Streamliner Coupe:
Like I said, I did not build this from a kit. It's been loved back to a simple collectible die cast. Being an open wheel racer, I thought everyone would enjoy it anyway. My next build is going to be a 1/20 Revival 1937 Auto Union Tipo C driven by Hans Stuck.
I am building the version used in the hill climbing races with the dual rear wheels. I still have a little work left on the 1/350 IJN Yamato, then the Auto Union build thread will be posted in the forum.
Ben / DRUMS01
The condition you say?, well the trunk or rear cover was sprung and did not fit; the door latches did not work and the right side door was glued closed (?); There were several nicks and scratches in both the white and red; the central fuel line was laying as a spare part along with the right door latch and cover; and a few other issues.
What did I do to the car?
- drilled the alignment pin holes for the rear trunk cover for a better fit
- filed the edges of the trunk cover and removed burrs around the pins
- used a wood dowel to correct the radius of the trunk cover to match the arc of the body
- reattached the main fuel line and enhanced it with additional details
- buy going through the driver door I was able to de-bond the passenger door
- repaired the right door latch and reassembled the door handle and inside cover
- laid down and glued the fabric seatbelts for realism
- detail painted several engine components
- touched up the nicks using Model Master paints (Brilliant Gloss White and Gloss Guards Red)
- polished and waxed entire car body
- several other things I cannot remember (?)
If you do not know the history of the real car, it is a worthwhile read. Here is my repaired ACME 1934 Ford So Cal Speed Shop Streamliner Coupe:
Like I said, I did not build this from a kit. It's been loved back to a simple collectible die cast. Being an open wheel racer, I thought everyone would enjoy it anyway. My next build is going to be a 1/20 Revival 1937 Auto Union Tipo C driven by Hans Stuck.
I am building the version used in the hill climbing races with the dual rear wheels. I still have a little work left on the 1/350 IJN Yamato, then the Auto Union build thread will be posted in the forum.
Ben / DRUMS01
