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Post by GrandPrecision on Jan 19, 2022 10:15:59 GMT -5
1/43! I've started adapting the model to adjust from 1/8 to 1/43 and has been a large task. Enough so that I opted to forgo the 2020/21 Aeroscreen car and pivot to the 2019 car. Someone recently asked me to print some of my 1/18 OZ rims in 1/43, so that kicked off this project. The front wing is printed directly on the body along with the gearbox, while the rear wing/attenuator is a separate piece that slides into the back of the gearbox. The undertray also houses the seat. More photos to come as I develop the front/rear suspension, along with the mirrors and exhaust.
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danny
Amateur Racer
Posts: 33
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Post by danny on Jan 20, 2022 0:44:10 GMT -5
Excited to see where this goes! Looks great!
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Post by GrandPrecision on Jan 20, 2022 11:40:41 GMT -5
Printing a few more pieces. Its amazing how tough these prints are, although the front wing did break off after a 4 foot drop. With the 2019 Road course car, my intent is to try to build Colton Herta's Laguna Seca winner along with Simon Pagenaud's Indy GP winner (with rain tires). The proposed pieces (and logic behind) - Tub and front wing - Paint the appropriate color
- Rear Wing & Attenuator - Paint wing body color, and supports/attenuator black
- Undertray & Seat - Paint various levels of black
- (4 pcs total) Front & Rear Suspension - Paint black
- (4 pcs each) Front & Rear Tires and Rims
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Post by Gary Davis on Jan 20, 2022 14:58:11 GMT -5
Man sadler...that's looking real good.
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Post by GrandPrecision on Jan 21, 2022 10:54:38 GMT -5
Latest iteration, moved the fuel filler to the other side for the Indy GP version, adjusted wing angle for the lower downforce used at the Indy GP, added brake ducts to the wheel hubs and printed rain tires. The gap between tub and undertray are due to the fact that an old revision of the undertray was used.
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zippernl
Hot Shoe
1/43 Dutch Driver Collector
Posts: 143
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Post by zippernl on Jan 21, 2022 11:20:39 GMT -5
That's looking really nice!
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justmike
Hot Shoe
Lifetime race fan ( please speak loudly )
Posts: 119
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Post by justmike on Jan 24, 2022 23:09:59 GMT -5
Wow! I want to see that painted! Just what you have here looks like it will make an excellent little model. It has a whole lot of detail that begs to be done up right.
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Post by GrandPrecision on Jan 25, 2022 11:44:15 GMT -5
So far its going OK, although I've ran into a hiccup in getting the undertray and body to mate up. Initial thoughts were that the prints were warping, however, thankfully it appears to be a case of user error!
As such, that's been corrected and reprinting today. One of the interesting things is that I have never painted a 1/43rd so the improvising on holding the objects for painting has been fun. One of the bodies fell in the paint booth due to the lack of area to hold, so that's been revised as well.
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Post by Gary Davis on Jan 25, 2022 14:29:19 GMT -5
This is really looking cool sadler. It's going to look even better with paint.
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Post by GrandPrecision on Jan 26, 2022 9:55:37 GMT -5
Bare with me as the are not the greatest photos, between low light and a camera phone: Suspension as printed: Rain and Slick tires painted: Undertray/Seat; 2nd photo shows the remains of the print supports as I won't be cleaning up the underside that won't be seen. 2 support posts have been added for support of the car, and the newest iteration features a hole for screwing to a base. Rear Wing: Body: I'm fascinated at the lack of print lines. Each part obviously has some supports that require clean-up, but the ability to produce something at this size of this quality is staggering.
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Post by indy on Jan 26, 2022 12:31:21 GMT -5
Great looking model, Chris. Nice job on the fidelity.
Jordan
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Post by woody86 on Jan 26, 2022 13:19:02 GMT -5
Looks great Chris. IS this works well for you it will be wonderful to have a resource for 1/43 scale Indycars.
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Post by Gary Davis on Jan 26, 2022 14:25:45 GMT -5
Man...that's looking REAL good!
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Post by GrandPrecision on Jan 31, 2022 11:49:19 GMT -5
Car is painted! I'm glad I'm not being picky on this build, as the clear lacquer melted some of the yellow at some of the edges. In hindsight, I should have mist coated the first layer of clear but the paint was so smooth that it looked wet right away. Again, no prep work, not even any sanding on any part of the body. Just paint: gray primer, white base, Mr Color 172 Fluorecent Yellow and Rustoleum Laquer Clear. Everything beyond the Mr Color was spraycans, while the yellow was airbrushed.
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zippernl
Hot Shoe
1/43 Dutch Driver Collector
Posts: 143
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Post by zippernl on Jan 31, 2022 12:12:44 GMT -5
Very smooth!
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Post by indy on Jan 31, 2022 17:20:11 GMT -5
Good looking day-glo paint job. Simon put it on the field all May that year.
Jordan
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justmike
Hot Shoe
Lifetime race fan ( please speak loudly )
Posts: 119
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Post by justmike on Jan 31, 2022 21:27:55 GMT -5
That pops! I look forward to the rest of your build.
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Post by GrandPrecision on Feb 1, 2022 9:19:43 GMT -5
I don't know how you 1/43rd guys do the detail painting. Painting the black areas of the front endplates is brutal. No pics so far If any 1/43rd builders can recommend any paint brushes or anything like that, I'm all ears. I usually cheat in 1/18 scale and print it all as decal typically!
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Post by woody86 on Feb 1, 2022 10:44:08 GMT -5
Looking SWEEEEEETTTT! Love that car and the Mr Color Fluoro Yellow is perfect for the Menard's.
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Post by woody86 on Feb 1, 2022 10:50:48 GMT -5
I don't know how you 1/43rd guys do the detail painting. Painting the black areas of the front endplates is brutal. No pics so far If any 1/43rd builders can recommend any paint brushes or anything like that, I'm all ears. I usually cheat in 1/18 scale and print it all as decal typically! I hate doing end plates. What I started doing was painting the color and then carefully masking the outside and upper surfaces with Tamiya tape. The old Optivisor comes in very handy as you really need to get close. Then I just lightly spray or paint. I usually use lacquer for the main colors and then use something like a Vallejo black (water based acrylic) to do the black areas. That way, I can easily wipe away the area of overspray/bleed. I also will do those areas after all the decals are applied and I have covered it in my gloss coat (which is usually a 2k clear. To me it has always been most important to mainly use a solvent based main color paint, and then use a water based for the tight areas so I can easily remove with water and a good rub. And buy the way, decals are pretty common for inner end plates as well from Tameo and MFH. But they are pretty fickle. Just my 2 cents.
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