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Post by woody86 on Sept 5, 2021 20:45:36 GMT -5
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Post by BalmyLight on Sept 6, 2021 1:40:10 GMT -5
I like that you said “I also spent some time eliminating most of the panel lines as I felt like they may have been "too" visible”", I agree and believe it is almost impossible to get panel lines to scale. You don’t really see the panel lines in real life but they can distract in a scale model. Look forward to the build!
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Post by racermagic on Sept 6, 2021 15:56:01 GMT -5
The front wing extensions and the brake detail are nice. Going to be a nice car.
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Post by Gary Davis on Sept 6, 2021 19:03:11 GMT -5
That really looks good to this point. What clear are you going to use?
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Post by woody86 on Sept 6, 2021 21:12:48 GMT -5
That really looks good to this point. What clear are you going to use? Plans are for Gravity Spain 2k. Have had good luck with it previously. Once the clear is done then I will go back and use an acrylic for the flat black trim like under the aero screen, etc. Today I finished the decals on the aero screen and worked up the centerline splitter. May need to do a bit more touch up but the body is pretty much complete. The undertray needs more carbon decals placed. The good thing is that the suspensions and engine assembly are all done and ready to go on once I get it set up to be mounted on the base. The great thing is I have two more of the 1/20 scale I can build when this is done. I already made up custom decals for the Rahal car from this year at Texas (Fleet Cost and Care) in both 1/20 and 1/43.
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Post by indy on Sept 7, 2021 9:49:38 GMT -5
Great work, Woody. I agree that panel lines are a difficult balance to reach on IndyCars. They are visible but especially the Indy 500 cars have their panels gaps worked on constantly so they are are minimal.
Thank you for posting the in progress pictures. Always enjoyable! Something to learn like using 123 blocks on a setup pad.
Jordan
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Post by woody86 on Sept 8, 2021 20:32:24 GMT -5
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Post by indy on Sept 9, 2021 8:34:00 GMT -5
That looks really good. Keep it up!
Jordan
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Post by Gary Davis on Sept 9, 2021 15:41:37 GMT -5
That sure looks good Woody. That 2k makes it POP!!
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jj66
Podium Finisher
Posts: 363
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Post by jj66 on Sept 10, 2021 10:53:24 GMT -5
Great clear coating! Waiting for more updates.
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Post by woody86 on Sept 10, 2021 13:00:29 GMT -5
Well, finished up the kit. Pretty pleased with final result. Have not built a larger scale kit for quite awhile.
Used Studio 27 seatbelt kit. Very tedious work, but the final presentation was worth it. The Gaianotes #33 Cyan paint matches the decals about as well as one could expect. I looked at a bunch of different colors and finally settled on that one.
I used a plain birch plywood piece from a hobby shop, added the 3M DINOC carbon fiber vinyl sheet to form a nice base.
The Gravity Spain 2k clear polished out well and now will be my go to from now on.
Carbon decals on the suspension is definitely worth the time as that show up nicely. I have moved away from using carbon decals on 1/43 unless they are part of the kit already.
How it looks in the case...
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Post by indy on Sept 10, 2021 14:30:42 GMT -5
Great work on the 1/20. Your paint/decal color matching is seamless - nice work. I like those two Mears 84Cs You should show those off! Jordan
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Post by Gary Davis on Sept 10, 2021 14:33:58 GMT -5
That really looks GREAT Woody. Great job. Do you know what the shelf life is on the Spain 2K? It sure looks good.
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Post by woody86 on Sept 10, 2021 15:16:33 GMT -5
That really looks GREAT Woody. Great job. Do you know what the shelf life is on the Spain 2K? It sure looks good. Thank you for the compliment. Not sure of the shelf life if not mixed. I know once mixed they say it is only good for about an hour. The sets I have now I have had for at least 6 months and no issues.
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Post by woody86 on Sept 10, 2021 15:29:51 GMT -5
Great work on the 1/20. Your paint/decal color matching is seamless - nice work. I like those two Mears 84Cs You should show those off! Jordan Thank you for the compliments. I have posted the Mears on the right here before. And the one on the left I purchased as a Bo Koch built version from the Ghost models guy who has since passed away. I am in the process of building the kit again using a different color and taking more time. I am going to change the color as I recently made a pilgrimage to the IMS museum to view the Rick Mears exhibit currently there. I took along a series of spoons I had painted with every color variant I could try out. Over white primer, over gray primer. Gravity US and Spain Pennzoil yellow (single and two stage version from Spain) Scalefinishes Pennzoil, etc. At the end of the day the best match was plain old Tamiya spray TS-16 Yellow. The other common discussion is regarding pearl. I used the flashlight on my phone and was able to detect just the slightest of pearl in the finish. Definitely easier to see in the sun, but inside virtually non-existent. As a result of this testing I also want to check the Tamiya pearl yellow spray as well to see if they are the same color, just with a bit of pearl. If not right I will redo using the Tamiya TS-16 (which I have already decanted in a hat ready to go). Sorry to go on and on, but this is about the only place in the world that would appreciate the color testing.
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Post by Gary Davis on Sept 10, 2021 16:15:17 GMT -5
Thanks for the 2K info Woody. Yes you're right about the paint testing. TS-yellow would be the one I'd go with..
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Post by racermagic on Sept 10, 2021 20:12:53 GMT -5
Details. The drive shafts. Your stinger exhaust is ALOT more realistic than a certian manufacturer. The front wing extensions. Nice CF steering wheel and proper belts. Very nice details, thanks for sharing.
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jj66
Podium Finisher
Posts: 363
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Post by jj66 on Sept 14, 2021 14:17:55 GMT -5
Excellent finish! Can you explain what the MFH process is for adjusting the windshield to its edges?
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Post by woody86 on Sept 14, 2021 14:56:57 GMT -5
The windscreen is vacuform so a lot of extra to cut down from. My personal process (which I hate doing vacuform trimming) is to lay down tamiya masking tape along the slight indentations to outline the proper edge. Then I cut along the masking tape with a set of super sharp scissors. Once cut out, do a slight sand using a sanding sponge. Then a lot of dry fitting.
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