Deleted
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B.J kit
Jul 18, 2009 14:35:28 GMT -5
Post by Deleted on Jul 18, 2009 14:35:28 GMT -5
I just received my Wheldon kit from B.J, but I have a few questions. It did not come with a steering wheel nor any instructions on painting or building it. Since I'm still new and learning the tricks of the trade does anybody have any instructions or a spare steering wheel? Just thought I'd ask before I try and tackle this car. I would try and get ahold of him, but it took forever to get it and I'm not sure it should even come with one. I don't think it's missing anything else, but without something to go by I really don't know. Thanks
R.T
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B.J kit
Jul 18, 2009 16:29:43 GMT -5
Post by Deleted on Jul 18, 2009 16:29:43 GMT -5
HI RT,
There are generally no instructions with any of Bill's kits. Thwere where some way back, but I haven't seen any in recent years.
There are some people here who can tell you what kit to use for *donor* parts. I have no clue about the steering wheel (all my kits from him are pre-'77, except for the *spin and win Sullivan car* which a friend swapped to me. It uses a Penske (??) AMT *donor* for the majority of the parts. I suspect that you will need a donor to provide some parts for the Wheldon kit, but I don't have a clue as to which one.
Bill does do a good job of filling in the need for many Indy subjects, though. Mainly his kits are starting points, except for several of his *OLD* kits (Miller, '52 winner, Blue Crown, etc..)
I am sure someone here can help! Mongo
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B.J kit
Jul 18, 2009 17:27:25 GMT -5
Post by clm1545 on Jul 18, 2009 17:27:25 GMT -5
Check back with Bill. My Sam Hornish kit has a steering wheel, and it is the same kit except for the decals. No, they don't have instructions. Think it out and take your time, you will be fine. Remember that most of us are here to help. Craig
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B.J kit
Jul 18, 2009 19:44:52 GMT -5
Post by Deleted on Jul 18, 2009 19:44:52 GMT -5
Check back with Bill. My Sam Hornish kit has a steering wheel, and it is the same kit except for the decals. No, they don't have instructions. Think it out and take your time, you will be fine. Remember that most of us are here to help. Craig Thanks for the info, Craig. I knew someone would know about that kit. This place is a great help! Mongo
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B.J kit
Jul 19, 2009 8:07:24 GMT -5
Post by Deleted on Jul 19, 2009 8:07:24 GMT -5
Thanks everyone for the help. I will e-mail him and ask him if I can get a steering wheel. To start this model it looks like I have a ton of sanding to do. Any suggestions on that? Some of the parts have ALOT of of extra material attached to them. Should I use a small dremel tool for this or should I sand the whole thing with just paper? I'm assuming painting and glueing are no different than with plastic??? Same type of glue will work for both as well as paint? Thanks for all the help. More questions to come.
R.T
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B.J kit
Jul 19, 2009 8:51:25 GMT -5
Post by herk56 on Jul 19, 2009 8:51:25 GMT -5
R.T. - Use a razor saw and coarse files or emery boards to remove any large lumps or thick flash. If sanding an imperfection on a flat panel, use a fine emery board or sandpaper backed up with something hard to avoid creating "waves" in the surface. Dremels are OK for "rough work" but don't try to finish with one. A Dremel can do a LOT of damage in a hurry! For glueing resin, use epoxy for large structural things and super glue for small stuff. Model glue will NOT stick to resin. Paint is wide open, lacquers and hot solvents do not attack resin like they do plastic, so any paint, even 1:1 automotive paints, are OK to use. A lot of us use the small auto touch-up cans for our models. Good luck with your project! Post progress pics if you can.
Brian
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B.J kit
Jul 19, 2009 8:59:18 GMT -5
Post by clm1545 on Jul 19, 2009 8:59:18 GMT -5
Be careful sanding. It is easy to go too far. I use 2 part putty to fill pinholes, but regular putty will work. Some guys fill the hole with baking soda and then add a drop of superglue. Plastic cement will not work on resin, use epoxy or superglue. Take your time and ask questions. We are all learning all the time. Craig
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B.J kit
Jul 19, 2009 9:49:05 GMT -5
Post by racerbrown on Jul 19, 2009 9:49:05 GMT -5
make sure it's clean from mold release before you paint! duane
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B.J kit
Jul 19, 2009 19:22:04 GMT -5
Post by Deleted on Jul 19, 2009 19:22:04 GMT -5
make sure it's clean from mold release before you paint! duane Hi RT, Duane makes a great point there! I use Wesley's Bleche Wite (spelled funny!) white wall tire cleaner to soak all my resin parts before painting. A sealable Tupperware, or similar, container, filled and just leave it over night. Then wash and dry. Wesley's can be found at Wally World, and a lot of other places, isn't expensive (it basically never wears out if kept sealed), and isn't caustic. I don't soak my hands in it though! LOL!! Like Herk56 says, I use Duplicolor automotive Touch Up paint a LOT. Use a good primer first (Duplicolor Primer/Filler is good and inexpensive). It will show any paces that need work, just sand the first coat with 400-600, fix any boo-boos, and put on a light coat to even things out. Duplicolor makes a white primer to use under light paint. I often sand the final primer with 800 to smooth it up. But, you can also use any of the hand cleaners that contain pumice and simply rub the parts with that and wash to smooth out the final primer. As has been said, plastic glue will not work on resin, at all. All our plastic cements/glues melt the plastic to join it and resin won't do that. Be careful with any other type of cleaners to soak the parts since some will turn resin into a gooey blob. Mongo
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B.J kit
Jul 27, 2009 12:59:57 GMT -5
Post by indycals on Jul 27, 2009 12:59:57 GMT -5
Here's minimum work you should do to paint the body. You might also want to consider painting some of the white area on top of the nose incase the decal cracks fitting into that area where the hump meets the flat surface on top of the tub (I had to touch mine up a little). Make sure you apply the nose decal before attaching the front wings. I think I used Tamiya TS 49 for the red. The sidepod decals are designed to be pretty forgiving so if the masking between the white and red isn't perfect the decals can make up for that.
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B.J kit
Jul 27, 2009 13:24:34 GMT -5
Post by indy on Jul 27, 2009 13:24:34 GMT -5
Hey Mike, where is the centerline wicker? ;D Would leaving it on require splitting the decals or anything like that?
Jordan
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B.J kit
Jul 27, 2009 16:31:00 GMT -5
Post by clm1545 on Jul 27, 2009 16:31:00 GMT -5
Just beautiful Mike. Makes me want to build an Andretti Green car.
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B.J kit
Jul 28, 2009 10:02:02 GMT -5
Post by macsparty on Jul 28, 2009 10:02:02 GMT -5
Hey Mike, where is the centerline wicker? ;D Would leaving it on require splitting the decals or anything like that? Jordan You know, on mine I thought long and hard on that for a while, but in the end decided it wasn't worth the effort. Aside from you folks on the board here, probably darn few people who ever look at it would even know there should be such a thing.
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B.J kit
Jul 28, 2009 19:02:45 GMT -5
Post by Deleted on Jul 28, 2009 19:02:45 GMT -5
Thanks for ALL the information. I greatly appreciate it.
RT
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