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Post by Deleted on Nov 19, 2009 4:06:45 GMT -5
So, who was it a while back that was talking about using scalpels instead of xactos? Jordan It could have been me. I always use scalpels. For heavy stuff I have a #4 handle and some *rib back* #24 blades (they don't bend) from Germany. For most stuff I use #11 blades (same number as the X-acto, but a different shape) in a #3 handle. Since they are very thin, they are also much sharper. Very cheap, too! 100 scalpel blades are cheaper than 100 X-acto blades..... If you ever need to trim Bare Metal Foil, nothing beats a #11 scalpel blade. Mongo
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Post by herk56 on Nov 19, 2009 8:16:54 GMT -5
I'll second that on the scalpels. I've used nothing but for many years now. Altho they work super well for most everything (esp. Bare-Metal as A-M said) they DO punish you severely for any mistakes or slip-ups. When I used X-actos, I always cut toward my thumb, using it as a "backstop" to catch the blade. I always had little nicks and slices in my thumbs, deep enought to get sore but they rarely bled. I learned RIGHT AWAY not to do that with a sclapel!!!
Brian
PS - Sorry Russ, we seemed to have hi-jacked your thread! I've been watching closely and am much impressed so far! I have Lance's conversion and hope to start this one as soon as I get the HoF '50 winner project under control. I'll post some WIP pics on that one soon.
B
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Post by sandysixtysfan on Nov 19, 2009 9:53:34 GMT -5
Russ, Enjoying every installment of your build! Indy race on your TV, sure looks like an episode of Sponge Bob Squarepants to me ;D ! Sandy
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Post by Deleted on Nov 19, 2009 10:57:13 GMT -5
Brain,
You didn't high-jack anything...I'm glad I didn't use a scaple for this one. The cut would have been much deeper. I was using a dull x-acto knife, I'm also glad it wasn't sharp. Now, that's talent to cut yourself with adull x-acto knife.
Best to you!
Russ
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Post by Deleted on Nov 19, 2009 11:16:28 GMT -5
I HATE SPONGE BOB!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
No Sandy, I really do. The voice alone is obnoxious.
The tape I have playing is from Doak Ewing, it's Rare Sports Flims version of the 1963 500 high-lite tape, and it's incredible! The first lap alone is worth the cost of the tape. To see Parnelli Jones and Jim Hurtibise duke it out for the lead on the first lap...to actually see how gutsy Herk was to stick that brute of a Novi he was driving on the outside of Parnelli and Old Calhoun!?!?!? WOW!! That gave Pranelli the idea of doing that same move 4 years later driving the turbine car.
It's worth the price is all I can say!
Best to you!\
Russ
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Post by sandysixtysfan on Nov 19, 2009 12:10:12 GMT -5
Thankfully my kids have outgrown him (it?) so SBSP is history around here. Thanks for the tip off concerning the race film. I've been meaning to get some and that sounds like a good place to start.
Sandy
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Post by indycals on Nov 19, 2009 12:57:03 GMT -5
Thankfully my kids have outgrown him (it?) so SBSP is history around here. I watch Spongebob *ducks*
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Post by sandysixtysfan on Nov 19, 2009 14:07:58 GMT -5
I was afraid I'd push somebody's button with that, and dang, it had to be you, The Decal Guy ! I guess some new decals for the Monogram Kurtis reissue are really out now! All I can say is I'm a product of my environment. I grew up on Rocky and Bullwinkle and the original Looney Tunes- Road Runner, Coyote (the four legged, furry one), & Yosemite Sam. And I still watch them! Sandy ;D
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Post by indycals on Nov 19, 2009 14:40:56 GMT -5
I grew up on those too... still love the Loony Tunes. I didn't know the Kurtis was being re-issued. Didn't read that thread.
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Post by Calvin on Nov 19, 2009 14:54:30 GMT -5
Wacky Racers was my fav.
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Post by sandysixtysfan on Nov 19, 2009 15:07:23 GMT -5
Michael, yep, it's over in the 1941-62 section. Russ, sorry to sidetrack your build! On to the next step!
Sandy
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Post by Deleted on Nov 19, 2009 16:53:49 GMT -5
Well......Michael, now you're talking! Having been fortunate enough to have met Chuck Jones once, I have always been a Loony Tune Fan! Of course I still love "Who Framed Roger Rabbit" as well. I always wanted to cartoon voices. I have done some radio dramas from here and there...Getting ready to do "A Christmas Carol" next month here in Glendora.
"Wacky Racers"?...Well, I'm a fan of those too. My nick-name for Danica Patrick has always been Penelope Pitstop..The Over the Hill Mob was my favorite..."Okay yous guys, make like dwarvers..."
Best to you!
Russ
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Post by Deleted on Nov 19, 2009 16:59:59 GMT -5
Step SevenOkay, back to Old Calhoun..... I have glued the dash onto the frame rails in the cockpit. Care and ease here, don't want to mess up the dash now. Also, I assembled the GD side oil tank, the one that nearly cost Parnelli the race. More later....Best to you all! Russ
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Post by indycals on Nov 19, 2009 18:33:58 GMT -5
Well......Michael, now you're talking! Having been fortunate enough to have met Chuck Jones once, I have always been a Loony Tune Fan! Whenever I'm out playing in the Canyons and deserts of Utah I expect to see a mangy coyote chasing a scrawny bird and dropping anvils. ;D I used to think those landscapes he drew up were exaggerated... but I've learned that they aren't even close to exaggerated... if anything Mr. Jones was a bit conservative.
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Post by indycals on Nov 19, 2009 18:44:01 GMT -5
BTW, the build is looking really good Russ!
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Post by stonecold44 on Nov 20, 2009 0:18:58 GMT -5
I just finished priming the frame and painted the engine, differential and bottom of the body. I have to shop for that tubing and I'll have to drill out the area of the differential where the drive shaft is located. So far so good though. This is an easy tutorial to follow. Now if dr dave will contact me about the wheels....
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Post by Deleted on Nov 21, 2009 14:18:33 GMT -5
Step EightThe seat - One of the parts that has always annoyed me about the good Old AMT Watson is the seat and steering wheel. Both need a great deal of help! I first take the seat and scribe into it the dividing line between leather and cloth. I then take a pin-drill vise and drill openings for the seat belts on the sides of the seats. Old Calhoun had a very unique seat that it was made up of two different kinds material, black leather outside and a black/dull sliver embroidered cloth. To get this effect, I paint the leather part in semi-gloss or satin black, the inner cloth color was painted flat black and dry brushed with a testors flat steal. Once dried, I then add the seat belt hardware to the seat. Now I turn my attention to the steering wheel. The kit one is sad with a big bulky boxy steering wheel pad. I sand the hard coroners off, and then paint it semi-gloss black. Once that is done, now I add the black upholstery to the cockpit. I do this now because once the frame is glued into the belly pan, it would be impossible to glue the parts in. Be careful in placing the parts into the frame and take care not to break the frame. Onward and upward...Best to you! Russ
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Post by Deleted on Nov 22, 2009 22:03:02 GMT -5
Step Eight - Part IINow I turn my attention to the steering wheel. The kit one is sad with a big bulky boxy steering wheel pad. The kit steering wheel is bad...Looks like someone place a hockey puck on top of it. I sand the hard coroners off, and then paint it semi-gloss black. To make it look more like the "real" steering wheel like the photo I took of Old Calhoun's cockpit in the Indianapolis 500 Hall of Fame Museum. More like this....I'll give it a light flat balck wash over the spokes. More later and best to you! Russ
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Post by Deleted on Nov 23, 2009 15:13:00 GMT -5
Step Nine - Body Assembly Now come the time to assemble the main body parts, then prep it for painting. First thing I do is to check the body against Bob Clidinst's drawings to make sure that I'm in the right ball park as far as shape and length are concerned. Then I sand the body to make sure all the glue marks and over hanging pieces are smooth. Once sanded, I then scribe the body panels according to photos and Bob's drawings. That's the next step....geeting the beast ready to paint. Best to you! Russ
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Post by Deleted on Nov 26, 2009 13:03:40 GMT -5
Keep it up Sheriff Bart! A really great tutorial under way.
Mongo
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Post by Deleted on Nov 27, 2009 11:15:20 GMT -5
Step Ten - Body prepOnce assembled, then I like to add some detail to the body by way of re-scribing body panel lines. The good OLD AMT Watson is not a bad kit, but the people at AMT during the 1960's got into the "model must be played with" mode and some of the body panel lines are where the real cars panel line were. So, you'll have to do two things. First, use a a dull x-acto knife and a ruler and put the panel lines in. Scribe carefully along those lines. This will mean refilling the lines with a combination of super glue with accelerator and evercoat putty filler...and of corse...sanding, sanding and sanding. Once the body is done to your satisfaction, you'll need to place the zues fasteners by way of using a pin-drill vise and a small number drill bit. Drill a start of a hole into the body and that way you'll get the small round type of holes that will simulate the fasteners. I then add the front suspension covers to the nose. If you look closely, you'll see where I made a few mistakes on the body by sanding too much and going through the resin and or plastic. This can be a hazard. Please, be careful! Best to you! Russ
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Post by sandysixtysfan on Nov 27, 2009 11:21:52 GMT -5
Great article Russ, I'm enjoying every installment!
Sandy
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Post by Patrick on Nov 27, 2009 14:09:00 GMT -5
What a beast! I love your step by step work.
Patrick
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Post by Deleted on Nov 27, 2009 20:24:41 GMT -5
Step Eleven - Primer time!Now this is a bit strange, but after I get the body totally together and sanded down smooth, this is the time I like to start to paint and primer. The combination of resin and plastic, you have to sand, prep, and primer the body so the paint will stick. First, I put some broken down cotton balls into the openings in the nose and nose scoop. I also place broken down cotton balls into the front and rear suspension on the car. I place a ripped up paper towel into the cockpit and cover all areas with masking tape and the cockpit area with Tamiya Making Tape. I then spray a lite coat of Dupi-Color Scratch filling primer...after a lite coat to see if there are any imperfection in the body, I give the car a good thick coat. Not too thick, but to cover the body, making it ready for paint. I then ,let it sit for a day and a half and do my research into the paint job of the car. Best to you! Russ
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Post by Deleted on Nov 27, 2009 21:46:48 GMT -5
Prepping for paint and decalsAll I can say is....... WOW!!!!Michael Portaro at Indycals has surpassed his work and sent me the best decal sheet for this beast I have ever seen! He's raised the bar for me greatly to do a good job on this beast! The sheet includes everything you'll need to build a good looking and accurate Old Calhoun. The Gold Leafing effect on the numbers alone make this decals sheet a must have! Even the sponsor stickers that run along the stripe own the right hand side...it's all there and accurate! Also, I sent Michael a cashiers check a week ago and got the decals today....fast and friendly service I must say. When everyone gripes and complains about slow turn around, Michael is right there on the spot. All I can say is this....The decals sheet blew me away and you'd be a fool if you're going to build this car and not get his wonderful decals sheet. It's a must have for this particular car! Now to the research.....Thanks to Bob Clidinst, I got to crawl around the real "Old Calhoun" at the Speedway Hall of Fame and Muesum.... Then I look into books for the excellent photos from Bob Tronolone. To put it simply, Bob was the best photographer at Indy during that time, and now you can see what a mess Old Calhoun became during the race.... The some photos from the carboration day before the race in 1963...and the wonderful videos from Doak Ewing at Rare Sports Films and the guys at First turn Productions... I look long and hard at the placement of all the sponsor stickers and the placement of the scallop paint job on the nose. This paint-job is a pain in the rump! But done properly, it's gorgeous on this beast of a race car. This is one step I'm going to take my time with and make sure the paint job is worthy of the excellent decals that Indycals proved for the car. All I can add is, do your research well on the better known Indy Cars. Best to you all and again, Thanks Michael! Russ
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Post by lazierfan on Nov 28, 2009 10:25:13 GMT -5
Russ,
Great job with this. I only wish that what you are doing here was avalible say 10 years ago when I built mine. But will be be using alot of this info on my other Watson builds. Thanks for the great work again and sharing for all to see. It only helps me get better.
Eric
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Post by Deleted on Nov 28, 2009 14:02:13 GMT -5
Hey Eric....
BUILD ANOTHER ONE!!!!! I am. I have two other versions of this car I have built...and I soon will have four once I use the wonderful conversion kit from Lance Sellers. now that Micheal has great decals for the beast! One thing about models is...you can always go back and build another one if you like it. I'll build another 1964 winner too. Love the old Watson Roadsters!!!! Now that's a race car!
Best to you!
Russ
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Post by Patrick on Nov 28, 2009 16:07:17 GMT -5
Ah... Watsonsaurus lover!
Patrick
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Post by Deleted on Dec 1, 2009 15:52:55 GMT -5
Step Eleven APrimer part two. When I do a white Indy Car, or a white based Indy Car...and Old Calhoun is Pearl White, I like to try to make white as easy as I can. Three colors I hate to paint a model car are, white, yellow and red. All have special "problems" that must be addressed at painting time. Yellow, I like to primer in white after a coat of gray. I like to do that with White & Red as well. Now, if you don't have Lance Sellers wonderful conversion kit for Old Calhoun, you'll have to deal with the lousy oil tank from the kit. First you'll need to assemble the tank. Just glue it together and sand down the MONSTER mounting bolts that cause Parnelli so much trouble during the race. Sand them down smooth to look like the photos I have shown in the tutorial. Next step is painting the car and oil tank Pearl White....if I can remember how. Best to you Russ
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Post by Deleted on Dec 3, 2009 14:53:04 GMT -5
OUCH!!! minor set back!
Didn't some jerk say yesterday that one of is minor talents was covering up his mistakes? Well, I made one today on Old Calhoun that was quickly corrected....and I made a major discovery on a new paint!
As I last posted, Old Calhoun was in white primer ready for the pearl white I was going to apply; but.....The Pearl White I did the last time I did a car with a pearl white paint job, (Lance Sellers' 64 Watson) I honestly forgot how to apply. I have heard time and again about Tamiya paint and it had a pearl white which was good, so last night I had a friend of mine drive me over to Pegasus Hobbies in Upland to check it out. So I bought a can of it ans d some Tamiya Thin Quick drying glue....(More on that later.)
I test sprayed my oil tank with eh Tamiya Paint to discover that it's just a lite top coat. You have to paint the car Dupi-Color Bright White first! So I sanded the oil tank and painted it with a coat of Bright White and then repainted it with eh Tamyia Pearl White and it was great!!!!
I then moved to the body and painted it with Dupi-Color Bright White. Went to set in down on the work bench to only drop it on the hood side gouging the paint....right on top of the hood! MAJOR LEAGUE OUCH!!!
As I was considering suicide, I remembered I was using Dupi-Color Lacquer paint.....thus, all is not lost! I set the main body down and let it dry. Then wet sanded the hood that the paint was destroyed, re-primered it with gray and then white sandable re-primered, then repainted it with the Bright White...set it down carefully not to touch it for the rest of today. Lesson learned, minor set back taken care of.......waiting until tomorrow now.
All is good and best to you all!
Russ
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