Removing paint with the "purple pond" method

[Calvin]

I have a painted glue bomb that I want to use but I cant remember what kinda product that some of you use that you call the "purple pond"? That you soak the body in that doesn't hurt the plastic but removes the paint.

I figured I'd post this here as this is fixing to become an educational moment...I'll post pictures once I figure out what product is used...

[robh]

Look no further than this scintillating and informative video:

[Calvin]

Thank you! I'll try it out and report back with how it goes....

[Bluespirit]

I don't know if you have the same products in the States ,but I use 3 products that do the job .
-Floor kleener (in France there is Glanzer) ,used to remove Johnson Future .In a plastic box for a night ,like on the video .I think it is a product similare to the "purple pond".
-Oven or insert wood glass cleaner . You spray on the model ,and you put it in a plastic bag for a night .After you clean with warm water and a tooth brush .
-Brake fluid.
It is depending the old paint it is ,but for enamel and acrylic (if you have not remove the last with alcool)it is ok .

[harveythedog2]

Testors Easy Lift Off works really well too.

[hurtubise56]

Be careful with brake fluid, it can soften some plastics and is a no-no for resin. It also strips chrome and can severely haze clear plastic.

Brian

[Bluespirit]

You are right .
Of course ,when you "discover" a new technic ,you must test it before and don't use it for all materials.

[jamesharvey]

I appreciate Brian's comments but I have used brake fluid on resin models. Both were Bill Jorgensen kits and I do not know what kind of resin he used or if it were the same in both kits. The last comment is great advice; test first. Good luck.
Jim

[flashman]

Hey Calvin. I'm a bit late on seeing your question. I can add a bit of info that may be of help, since the other replies haven't mentioned them:

1. "Purple pond" generally refers to two similar competing products, "Super Clean" (formerly called Castrol Super Clean) and "Purple Power". They are very strong degreasers and will quickly strip all the oils out of your skin, but won't harm most kit plastics. They are often sold side by side in auto parts stores and the auto supply sections of hardware and larger discount stores. Both will work for stripping paint from models, but most modelers seem to feel that Purple Power is weaker and not as effective in stripping paint as Super Clean.

2. They are reusable but both types lose their effectiveness over time. They may still strip paint but it just takes longer the older it is.

3. The warmer the liquid is, the faster it will strip the paint. I personally have only stripped paint using this stuff once, and have yet to figure out the best/safest way to warm it up apart from storing the bottle in a hot sun/garage/room during the summer. Please be careful with how you try to warm this stuff.

Here is a great comparison of model car paint strippers, although it's kinda old:
www.bonediggers.com/1-3/strip/strip.html

And if you want years (2006 to present) of discussion on paint strippers from car modelers:
www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/83153-paint-strippers-what-to-use/

Finally, you'll see many people recommend 99% Isopropyl alchohol instead of the weaker 91% stuff as the best stripper for Tamiya TS sprays and other types of lacquers, but in many areas (including my state) the 99% stuff does not seem to be sold in pharmacies or hardware stores. But it can most likely be found in larger electronic supply stores. Here's where I found it in my city: www.microcenter.com/product/451968/puretronics-technical-grade-isopropyl-alcohol-999---32oz

Good luck!

Cameron