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Post by Mr. Paxton on Jul 11, 2019 19:41:14 GMT -5
I have had this happen before; almost always with older kits with old decals.
I am always afraid to put decals on WITHOUT a setter. Always worry about them lifting off.
Anyway, I am curiouys if your decals were old or "fresh"?
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robh
Race Winner
Posts: 526
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Post by robh on Jul 11, 2019 20:21:46 GMT -5
They were brand new aftermarket decals. I stripped them, touched up the paint, bought a 2nd set, and skipped the Microset step when I applied the new decals. No further problems.
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Post by Mr. Paxton on Jul 11, 2019 22:45:08 GMT -5
Interesting... I wonder if it is the decal setter.
I have almost exclusively used Solvaset. But I have had that staining issue for a while.
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Post by hurtubise56 on Jul 12, 2019 11:12:49 GMT -5
Did you try wiping with mild (70%) rubbing alcohol? I've had good luck with this removing decal adhesive residue. Might help, I dunno!
Brian
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Post by Mr. Paxton on Jul 12, 2019 12:10:55 GMT -5
Did you try wiping with mild (70%) rubbing alcohol? I've had good luck with this removing decal adhesive residue. Might help, I dunno! Brian I will try this. Thank you! |
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Post by Calvin on Jul 12, 2019 13:09:21 GMT -5
I've had this many times, but I never worried about it because I always clear coat my cars. But also clear coating over gold paint jobs creates a different look under the clear part of the decal, compared to the exposed goal surface....
I need to do a blog post on all these strange things that happen
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robh
Race Winner
Posts: 526
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Post by robh on Jul 12, 2019 15:12:10 GMT -5
I had tried removing the stain with mild detergents and, like you, have been able to make some decal set/glue stains/residue disappear with clear coats. However, I wasn't sure how that would work on the metallic finish. Applying decals is not my favorite aspect of model building. Even when using the same manufacturers decals, the same setting solutions, and applying the decals on surfaces treated to the same gloss clear coat, I rarely get consistent results. I tend to treat every decaling session as an experiment.
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Post by Mr. Paxton on Jul 12, 2019 20:54:24 GMT -5
I have never clear coated over my decals. Have been afraid to, not knowing if they would "melt".
I also collect vintage motorcycles and have heard nightmares about guys melting decals on restorations. Just assumed that that was a possibility with models as well. Good to know that does not happen!
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robh
Race Winner
Posts: 526
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Post by robh on Jul 13, 2019 7:03:21 GMT -5
Some clear coats WILL melt some decals. Tamiya TS-13 is a notorious decal destroyer. I suggest testing clear coats that you plan on using on scrap/spare decals. Another suggestion is to apply a barrier coat of Future over any decals that you're planning to clear coat.
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Post by eagle36 on Jul 14, 2019 9:56:00 GMT -5
I have had some luck using distilled water and a cotton swab to remove setting solution residue. You can get distilled water at the supermarket, or if you live in Wisconsin, gallons of it from your basement dehumidifier.
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Post by starfighterace on Jul 19, 2019 10:32:23 GMT -5
I have found that some decal setting solutions will attack metallic finishes. Most of the decal setting solutions have a vinegar base. Vinegar is an acid. Some of the model paint companies use a different carrier agent for the metallic paints. Testors is one. That makes them quite vulnerable to blushing (The discoloring you see) when a setting solution is applied and left to dry on them. Scale Motorsport Carbon fiber decals also have this problem.
Sometimes it disappears when you clear coat the model, sometimes it becomes worse.
Best solution is to see if you can polish out the damage. Novus #2 or Tamiya Medium polish just might do the trick.
TS-13, the new formula Tamiya clear is now junk. It also melts other colors of Tamiya paint, decals, and even resin parts. Best to avoid it totally.
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