Resin Reynard Engine/Transaxle References

[indy]

First of all, I apologize for the huge post but hopefully it will be really helpful.

I am purchasing some of the Reynard Engines from Kevin and happened to get a PM here from a fellow member doing the same.  Thought it might be good to pool our references for the various engines during this time frame and the Reynard transaxles.  The stock Revell Reynard transaxle looks good with just some paint but a little TLC will get you a great piece.  A big kudos to Ed Sexton of Revell for making the prototypes and to Kevin K for reproducing these in resin. Contact Kevin at [e-mail] if you want to buy any/all, he has a Ford, Honda, and Toyota.  Thanks to Calvin Sallee for the scans, as always, I appreciate the research help.

If you have any more pictures, feel free to add them onto this post.

Engine Pics
1996


1997


1998


1998 Ford


1998 Honda



1998 Toyota
Even though this is the Eagle 987, AAR used a standard Reynard Transaxle


1999


1999 Honda




1999 Mercedes Benz




1999 Toyota


2000


2000 Honda
Red bulkhead on Penske!?



2001


2001 Ford


2001 Toyota


2003 Ford - Sole Supplier from 2003 to 2008
















Reynard Transaxle

1998

1999

2001 - not great, I know

2003







Bonus Pics
1996 Eagle Toyota

1999 - This looks like Robby Gordon's team and he raced a Swift at Nazareth so this could be a Swift transaxle, but he did test multiple cars on some weekends.

Show cars are not the best references, but in case it helps

Infamous 2001 Detroit Popoff Spacer

2003 Zanardi Exhibition




Jordan

[Calvin]

Wow! This is one heck of a reference! Your work put into this is very much appreciated!
IMO you are still the Revell Reynard Guru!

[mjjracer]

Jun 23, 2015 14:44:33 GMT -5 Calvin said:

Wow! This is one heck of a reference! Your work put into this is very much appreciated!
IMO you are still the Revell Reynard Guru!

Absolutely!

I too just purchased one of these little gems. Perfect timing.

MJ

[shunter]

Jordan you have out done yourself....Thank you for the big help with this one.

[indy]

Glad to help but no more grand self-proclamations. The more I know, I realize I have even more to learn. I do love researching projects for these Reynard kits and really enjoy getting to share the stuff that I find. Would love to see all you who have finished these or are working on them show us some build pictures.

Quick note, I seem to have missed the 1999 summary scan so I have updated the original post.

Here are the resin engines that you can buy from Kevin K.


Jordan

[jamesharvey]

This is just nuts!!! I can't believe all that went into this. Thank you so much for all the pictures and reference material even if I never build one of these. As an aside, I do wish that today's cars looked more like these. Sorry, just my opinion, but then I would prefer roadsters or Gurney Eagle or pre-WWII.
Jim

[alterrenner]

No need to apologize for the long post--the post doesn't seem long enough, to me!
--Frank

[indy]

Found a good one of the bulkhead looking back towards the front of the car. Added it to the original post but here it is just for reference.



Jordan

[Calvin]

Jul 23, 2015 23:08:36 GMT -5 indy said:

Found a good one of the bulkhead looking back towards the front of the car.

Wow! All CNC Milled out! I've never seen that for a bulkhead with the engine turning (fine geometric pattern from the milling process)

[Deleted]

When I put a finish on a piece of metal I use a wooden dowel rod and lapping compound. Once it is mounted on the table, each turn of the x axis (and the y axis for that matter) is .200. You don't even have to look, just handle down, handle down. You can double it without much trouble. If you use a .500 dowel rod, then the offset is either .200 or .400 and you don't have to look at anything.

My 1,2,3 blocks, sine bar and grinding vise all have this pattern on them, along with my 30' 60' 90' and 45' triangles and my precision square. Keeps them from rusting. I engine turn all my precision grinding tools. Even the base of my diamond dresser. I always mill a name rectangle into them and stamp my name, prior to heat treatment. Just looks nice and identifies them as belonging to you.

I have some very large micrometers with tubular frames, and I machine turned a pattern into them as well.

[jwrass]

Jordan,

Thank you so much for the awesome reference material!!!! I found the articles very interesting as well! Your willingness to share and put this information together took some time which is much appreciated!!!

Again Thank You!!!

Jimmy "RASS"