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Post by Chris on Oct 7, 2012 13:36:16 GMT -5
The Mylar Driver-Sponsor Decal set off the actual car I have sitting here is White and I dont remember the Stripe and associated Nose parts being Pearl. So I would use a bright white, I believe that would be correct. The Indycals stripes are right on!!!! Best set for the 68 I have seen other than the real ones I have!!! The car is definately metallic I really like Michael's Dark blue with the transparent blue overcoat, actually it is close and the metallic is kinda mute factor in scale as the flake would have to be so small it wouldnt really be noticable Chris  |
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Post by clm1545 on Oct 7, 2012 16:16:48 GMT -5
The correct color for the 60's Eagles is one of those things that I guess will never be fully answered. Russ has seen the car at AAR and it is not metallic, but a dark blue. When I built my '69 car, I used Krylon Navy. My reasoning was that as often as that car was modified during the month of May, the crew would not have had time to apply much of a show finish. I guess that only The Shadow really knows.
Take Care
Craig
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Post by Chris on Oct 7, 2012 17:26:38 GMT -5
I know Russ has been to AAR, but I have been in the 67 Spa Car, The 68 Indy Car, The 69 "Santa Ana Roll Out" car, the 70 Indy Car, the 72 Unser Eagle , The 75 Eagle, The 76 Eagle, as a young man I use to hang out while my Dad did the Top End on the Offy's and DOHC engines for AAR I spent many hours there and when the guys would push the cars back in the shop at the end of the day they would let me drive them. Also when my Dad held the R/C car races at the Briggs Cunnigham Museum I would go into the museum and hang with Briggs, the Spa car and 68 cars were in the museum , Briggs would let me get in any car there while he told me racing stories. I have spent more time in some of those cars than many of the drivers. I will tell you the 1968 Eagle is metallic, although very small flake, so is the 67 Spa car , the 69 car and the 70 car.. I will download pics in a bit as I need to upload some files to fotki.. the are indisputable proof... I had posted a series of pics previously on this subject. but cant find it.. Chris Ps. If Cathy who has been at AAR as long as I can remember says its a Metallic you can bet your life on it , she may know more about the cars than Dan..... |
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Post by clm1545 on Oct 9, 2012 13:11:38 GMT -5
I'm not looking to start any hassle with you, Chris, you were there and I was not. Russ was allowed to take some photos of the '68 car at AAR, with the understanding that they would not be published in any form, otherwise I would post them. The car does not appear to be metallic, but a very dark blue. If the paint is metallic, it does not show up. If the car is in sunlight, it may show the flake, I know that the blue would be much lighter. If any flake was aluminum powder, it would become duller, and darker with age. In any event, a flake that small will not be possible to reproduce in 1/25 scale. I suspect that like most of us, I do not sell models, I do not do commission work, and I don't enter contests. so I have only myself to please. My advice is, use whatever looks right to you, and realise that you might be wrong.
Take Care
Craig
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Post by SWT500 on Oct 9, 2012 14:26:24 GMT -5
May I suggest that someone just call Kathy Weida at AAR and ask?
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Post by Chris on Oct 9, 2012 16:20:46 GMT -5
The actual color was a dark metallic blue, at least the nose off this car sitting in my sisters house is!! I was told Cadillac Firemist Blue by a AAR member.. This question comes up about every 6 months but having been in the car and having the nose off it.... Chris I asked the question directly to AAR a few years ago. This is what they used for a restoration of chassis 104. Glasurit Brand Paints - Metallic dark blue base # 5 4 - 6 M - 5 0 3 5 and Clear Coat 9 2 3 - 5 5 White (Roundels) 5 4 - M 2 5 White Pearl (body) 6 9 - M - 0 1 0 with the same clear coat 9 2 3 - 5 5 From my “Scale Models” article from years ago on mixing racing colors (with Tamiya paint), they suggest for A.A.R. Blue as: 4 parts aluminum + 3 parts royal blue, and then clear coat. So Chris, my question to you is about the white stripe on your nose. Is it white pearl or just white? Paul Erlendson Paul, I am going to assume you called and spoke to Cathy, she would be the one who knows, she pays the invoices and keeps the records. Yes the flake on the 68 is small, that is why I think the finish on Michaels car maybe the closest I have seen, the Blue transparent overcoat would give a slight candy like finish which a very small flake would also give in scale particularly. This debate comes up every 8 to 12 months on this board and I dont think all the parties involved will ever be satisfied. I spent so much of my youth there and involved with AAR and the guys there, I remember the car in the sun and it is indeed a metallic. At this point I will say build it the way You like and what is most appealing to you, this is not IPMS and I believe most modelers here build for pleasure not museum quality. So Bottom Line Build it for Yourself and dont worry what the Experts think!!!! Chris  PLEASE LOOK AT THIS PRE RACE PHTO OF THE 68 INDY 500 CAR AND TELL ME ITS NOT METALLIC!!!!!!!!!!! |
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Post by indy on Oct 9, 2012 16:54:53 GMT -5
Thanks to everyone for taking a deep breath before posting and remembering it is just a hobby.
A hobby where someone could put William Rast decals on a $150 Miller 91 from Etzel....
....not that I condone that LOL
Jordan
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Post by pje on Oct 9, 2012 18:09:59 GMT -5
I asked the question directly to AAR a few years ago. This is what they used for a restoration of chassis 104. Glasurit Brand Paints - Metallic dark blue base # 5 4 - 6 M - 5 0 3 5 and Clear Coat 9 2 3 - 5 5 White (Roundels) 5 4 - M 2 5 White Pearl (body) 6 9 - M - 0 1 0 with the same clear coat 9 2 3 - 5 5 From my “Scale Models” article from years ago on mixing racing colors (with Tamiya paint), they suggest for A.A.R. Blue as: 4 parts aluminum + 3 parts royal blue, and then clear coat. So Chris, my question to you is about the white stripe on your nose. Is it white pearl or just white? Paul Erlendson Paul, I am going to assume you called and spoke to Cathy, she would be the one who knows, she pays the invoices and keeps the records. Yes the flake on the 68 is small, that is why I think the finish on Michaels car maybe the closest I have seen, the Blue transparent overcoat would give a slight candy like finish which a very small flake would also give in scale particularly. This debate comes up every 8 to 12 months on this board and I dont think all the parties involved will ever be satisfied. I spent so much of my youth there and involved with AAR and the guys there, I remember the car in the sun and it is indeed a metallic. At this point I will say build it the way You like and what is most appealing to you, this is not IPMS and I believe most modelers here build for pleasure not museum quality. So Bottom Line Build it for Yourself and dont worry what the Experts think!!!! Chris PLEASE LOOK AT THIS PRE RACE PHTO OF THE 68 INDY 500 CAR AND TELL ME ITS NOT METALLIC!!!!!!!!!!! Yes Chris, my information came directly from Kathy. At the time I asked the question a few years ago they had chassis 104 in the shop. This is also when the photo spread for Racer Magazine was shot. She and the crew there were absolutely wonderful to me. Not only did she get me the paint info, but they took a series of photos of the engine for me while it was removed from the chassis. She invited me to the shop, but I couldn't drop everything and fly down from Boise.  I only know for sure that this information covers the four formula 1 cars, but it does make sense that they would carry over the theme onto their Indy cars. If I remember correctly, it was also the way that Carousel 1 painted their F1 cars. I still have the Carousel 1 1966 team Indy car and the roundels are painted white pearl, and not plain white as done on the F1 car. Now how metallic paint carries over to 1/25th scale is another question and that's why I asked Michael about "artistic license". As I have both the 1968 Indy car kit and the 1/20th scale MFH F1 kit and will have to decide for myself as to how I want to paint my builds. By the way, I've been an IPMS member for years and I could certainly make the arguement for Michael's paint job in terms of 1/25th scale. Besides the airplane and armor guys wouldn't have a clue what is the correct color.  To satisfy myself though, I think that my 1/20th MFH car will have to use a metallic blue and white pearl. Paul Erlendson |
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Post by pje on Dec 12, 2012 13:27:24 GMT -5
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Post by Deleted on Jan 6, 2013 22:49:43 GMT -5
Beautiful car looks outstanding  |
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Post by pje on Feb 17, 2014 18:37:44 GMT -5
I’d like to use Michael’s build to ask this question because I’m using one of his photos from his blog describing how he narrowed the rear suspension. Notice the cylinder protruding from the top of the pontoon at the engine bay. I’ve found a few photos of that area of the actual car, but of course the exhaust headers are installed, so I can’t be 100% sure that these cylinders are there or not. I think they are there on the model to support the exhaust headers and are not really part of the actual car. The only reason that I can think of something like that being on the actual car would be pneumatic jacks, and if that’s the case there should be corresponding openings on the bottom of the of the chassis. Also, there is no similar cylinder in the front of the model to represent a front jack. Thanks for your thoughts. Paul Erlendson Attachments:
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Post by indycals on Feb 17, 2014 20:33:57 GMT -5
I think those are just there for support.
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Post by IndyCarModels on Feb 17, 2014 20:53:29 GMT -5
Great work Michael!!!!!
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Post by smbrm on Feb 18, 2014 14:22:31 GMT -5
I’d like to use Michael’s build to ask this question because I’m using one of his photos from his blog describing how he narrowed the rear suspension. Notice the cylinder protruding from the top of the pontoon at the engine bay. I’ve found a few photos of that area of the actual car, but of course the exhaust headers are installed, so I can’t be 100% sure that these cylinders are there or not. I think they are there on the model to support the exhaust headers and are not really part of the actual car. The only reason that I can think of something like that being on the actual car would be pneumatic jacks, and if that’s the case there should be corresponding openings on the bottom of the of the chassis. Also, there is no similar cylinder in the front of the model to represent a front jack. Thanks for your thoughts. Paul Erlendson Gents I would like to suggest the cylinders are an artifact of manufacture. This upper side of the monocoque is the side with the ejector pin marks. There is also one in the very front in front of the pedal location. Since ejector pins are probably steel pins inserted in the moulds they may have only had ones that were too short, and therefore not as flush with the mould surface. This photo is a from the original 1969/1970 kit and you can see the ejector pin mark is much shorter. These long cylinders were not in the original kit. At best it might have coincided with an access port, however on this chassis there was an access port on the inside vertical surface, not the horizontal. The exhaust pipes on the Weslake v8 barely clear the top of the monocoque on pics I have seen. I would suggest removal is more than appropriate.  Stephen |
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expatriate
Amateur Racer
Plays wit razor blades
Posts: 21
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Post by expatriate on Jan 6, 2022 19:12:28 GMT -5
It's an aero thing, a crude wing of sorts. Michael, you are peerless when it comes to building and photographing them!! The metal piece acts as a crude wing to press the inner wheel down harder on the continuous left turns. |
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To satisfy myself though, I think that my 1/20th MFH car will have to use a metallic blue and white pearl.
