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Post by Mr. Paxton on Mar 6, 2022 14:28:14 GMT -5
When prepping a resin body model, do you guys seal the resin before priming/painting it?
I have only built few resin models and I find that the porousness of the resin seems to be an issue. I have a hard time getting a smooth paint application in some areas, even after sanding, priming and wet sanding. Some areas will be smooth and some not.
Any advice would be appreciated...
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Post by vintagerpm on Mar 6, 2022 16:35:52 GMT -5
Never seen a "porous" resin body. I have seen pin holes in less than perfect castings. Those need to be filled before priming. Some are so tiny they have to be opened up with an Xacto blade before they can be filled.
Mike
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Post by Mr. Paxton on Mar 6, 2022 17:04:28 GMT -5
Well I don't want to mention the manufacturer as that is not the point but all resin is porous.
I have been casting resin for more than 10 years but I use a very good quality resin. I am thinking that this particular maker does not. We are probably referring to the same issue...
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Post by hurtubise56 on Mar 6, 2022 17:04:53 GMT -5
This is the primer I use on resin models, it's a bit thicker and will fill the resin "texture". Seems to cooperate with most paints.  |
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Post by Mr. Paxton on Mar 6, 2022 17:08:53 GMT -5
This is the primer I use on resin models, it's a bit thicker and will fill the resin "texture". Seems to cooperate with most paints. Interesting! Since you mention it, I use Krylon on one and it painted very well! But when I used my thin airbrush primer, I had several rough spots. I think I will go back to priming with the rattle can and see how that goes. This was helpful! Thank you! |
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Post by hurtubise56 on Mar 6, 2022 18:00:39 GMT -5
Basic process: Fill large defects/pinholes, prime with above primer, re-fill any remaining defects with spot putty, sand, re-prime, repeat until all looks good, one last light coat of primer, wet-sand, paint. HTH!
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Post by Bugatti Fan on Apr 14, 2022 3:47:28 GMT -5
There are no shortcuts in preparation whether it be resin, plastic or white metal.
RESIN. Pinholes I generally open up with a small drill just a bit bigger than the pinhole itself to fill them more easily. Main surface gets rubbed down with fine wetndry paper to make a better key for the paint. Then washed with a detergent solution to both clean off any sanding residue and any remaining mould release agent. Some modellers advocate wiping over with white vinegar before washing as it is mildly acidic to kill any mould release agent. Once thoroughly dry aerosol primer filler is used. When this is dry a very light rub over with wetndry paper and rewashed to remove the dust. Once dry the top coat (coats) can be applied and when dry, polished up.
WHITE METAL. This material is also porous by nature so the same preparation as for resin is used.
PLASTIC. As this material is generally smooth and non porous it will need rubbing down with fine wetndry to make a 'key' for the primer. Sometimes plastic kit parts have shrink and ejection marks from the moulding process that have to be filled in and sanded down to blend with the surrounding plastic. This can be more difficult than filling in pinholes in resin. Once done the washing, drying and priming process is basically the same as for resin and white metal. Cellulose paints are all but gone from the shelves of aerosols these days having been replaced by acrylics in the main. If you have an old cellulose aerosol do not use it on polystyrene plastic, unless of course you want to see your model disintegrate like a vampire doused in holy water!
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